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Old 05-30-2004, 10:10 PM   #6391
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Uhh... I dont think they are pose to be tight. If they are, it would be the source of all those binding problems
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Old 05-30-2004, 11:28 PM   #6392
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Tighten them until there's no play in the upright, but the suspension moves freely. As things wear and become sloppy from use, you'll be able to tighten them to compensate for the slop.
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Old 05-31-2004, 05:04 AM   #6393
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Default re:no rear toe

roddude65,
if by reasearching real race cars you mean being a crew chief and engine builder for three year and finishing in the top 3 all 3 years ok.plus having been at gsoline ally and talked to the guys that build the indy cars.real cars dont run 2-3 degrees of toe in at the rear this would scrub the outside of the tire off and build huge amounts off heat in to the tiresquickly.more like 1/2 degree toe in.yes i understand why we do it,but running as little as possible in the rear and doing other things to get traction makes a faster better handling car.most of the coning on the rear is due to the large amount of toe in we are forced to use.basically we are dragging the tire outside edge first,so this scrubs it off.just like on a real car when the alignment is off if its toed out the inside will wear,toed in the outside will wear.as the version 2 suspension will allow us to due some different things now i was trying to get some thought going on this subject as the mugen cars dont run as much toe in as the tc3 needs too.running less rear toe will only make us faster everywhere and cause less tire wear.
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:35 PM   #6394
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Default YOKOMO SHOCK CAPS & BLADDERS

Anyone know if there is a difference in performance when using yokomo shock caps & bladders(diaphram). The Yok's are very easy to assemble. The regular shock assembly in the NTC3 manual it states to build the shocks so the shaft pushes out 1/4" to 3/8" and I can't get it rite, they push out all the way . Any help on the assembly would be appreciated, if not then I'll go w/caps & bladders.
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Old 05-31-2004, 07:24 PM   #6395
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Default Re: YOKOMO SHOCK CAPS & BLADDERS

Quote:
Originally posted by gonzo416
Anyone know if there is a difference in performance when using yokomo shock caps & bladders(diaphram). The Yok's are very easy to assemble. The regular shock assembly in the NTC3 manual it states to build the shocks so the shaft pushes out 1/4" to 3/8" and I can't get it rite, they push out all the way . Any help on the assembly would be appreciated, if not then I'll go w/caps & bladders.
did you move the shock piston to the top before putting on the shock cap? make sure you only fill the shock cap halfway and not more than that then put it on the shock body. I have no problems with the TC3 shock. Been using it since day 1. If they push out all the way quickly, then you need to bleed the shocks, just unscrew the cap halfway and move the piston upwards to release some oil, then retighten it. Should be fine then. 1 word of advise, get the unobtanium shock shaft, it is damn smooth.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:35 AM   #6396
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Default Re: re:no rear toe

Quote:
Originally posted by morpwr
roddude65,
if by reasearching real race cars you mean being a crew chief and engine builder for three year and finishing in the top 3 all 3 years ok.plus having been at gsoline ally and talked to the guys that build the indy cars.real cars dont run 2-3 degrees of toe in at the rear this would scrub the outside of the tire off and build huge amounts off heat in to the tiresquickly.more like 1/2 degree toe in.yes i understand why we do it,but running as little as possible in the rear and doing other things to get traction makes a faster better handling car.most of the coning on the rear is due to the large amount of toe in we are forced to use.basically we are dragging the tire outside edge first,so this scrubs it off.just like on a real car when the alignment is off if its toed out the inside will wear,toed in the outside will wear.as the version 2 suspension will allow us to due some different things now i was trying to get some thought going on this subject as the mugen cars dont run as much toe in as the tc3 needs too.running less rear toe will only make us faster everywhere and cause less tire wear.
But... The tires we use have different grip charecteristics than real race tires, but still the concept is correct; using lower amounts of toe will make the car faster everywhere, and help the tires wear more evenly.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:37 AM   #6397
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Default Re: YOKOMO SHOCK CAPS & BLADDERS

Quote:
Originally posted by gonzo416
Anyone know if there is a difference in performance when using yokomo shock caps & bladders(diaphram). The Yok's are very easy to assemble. The regular shock assembly in the NTC3 manual it states to build the shocks so the shaft pushes out 1/4" to 3/8" and I can't get it rite, they push out all the way . Any help on the assembly would be appreciated, if not then I'll go w/caps & bladders.
The bladder has the effect of adding 10 wt to the damping force. I determined this on carpet with my electric TC3.
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Old 06-02-2004, 04:20 PM   #6398
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Default PAVIDIS'S WORLDS SETUP

HEY RODDUDE,
I LOOKED ON THE ASSOCIATED SITE AND PAVIDIS'S WORLDS SETUP IS NOT THERE. CAN U POST IT. I JUST GOT MY NTC3 AND WANT TO SET IT UP FOR A TRACK LIKE THE ONE U DESCRIBED. RACING SATURDAY IF I GET THE CAR RITE.
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:40 PM   #6399
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Default Still in search of v2 rear suspension upgrade

RC Boyz is out of them. Anywhere else?
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Old 06-02-2004, 06:12 PM   #6400
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All you really need are the mounts, arms, hubs and tower. All available at tower or horizon. Build the turnbuckles yourself.
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Old 06-04-2004, 06:54 AM   #6401
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Default K-Factory parts in US?

Does anyone know where to buy K-Factory hop-ups for the NTC3 in the US?

Thanks in advance....
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Old 06-04-2004, 11:13 AM   #6402
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Default FT V2 setup reference anyone?

Hi,

I am setting up my newly built FT NTC3. I tried to find setup sheets on the net for V2 suspension as reference but there is none I could found on the AE net.

My track condition is smooth asphalt with long straight and wide turns. Actually its for both 1/8 and 1/10.

I am running gearing at 21/27 with 52/48, 70wt shock oil, red springs all corners, AE 3 shoe clutch with copper clutch springs, rear blade anti-roll bar, Protoform Dodge Stratus, and Jaco 40 F & R tires.

Can someone with similar equipment/track condition share your setup?

In addition, there is no explanation in the manual about the shimming of the rear camber link to the upright. I would like to know what would be the impact on handling if I shim up the mounting position of rear camber link to the rear upright?

Any help is appreciated.
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Old 06-04-2004, 03:55 PM   #6403
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Default SHOCK LENGTH

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE SHOCK LENGTH OF THE NTC3(V2) IS?
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Old 06-04-2004, 04:00 PM   #6404
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ok ... Jason and Gonzo ... Current setup

front

caster 9*, camber -3*, toe 0*, ride height 5.5 mm, droop, #4 on the asc tool, no roll bar, std ackerman, shocks # piton 60 wt red springs .. outside on the arm .. in the top hole of the bodymount holes spaced out with an extra thin 4-40 nut .. ( I will post a pic later ) ...

rear

camber -3*, toe 3* in, ride height 6mm, droop #4, no roll bar, shocks #3 piston 40wt copper springs middle on the tower, V.2 rear suspension camber link in the middle hole on the tower

chassis general

nitro shoes 40 shore front and rear, diffs front and back .. front set 1/8 turn out rear set 1/4 turn out, 2 shoe clutch no trimming or holes std springs, two speed set to shift just past the brake point for the third longest straight on the course .. or less than 1/3 down the longest straight, gearing 21/54 first 27/48 second, fuel pressure line moved to the second chamber of the dual chamber pipe and a pressure fitting used ( I will post a pic later )

I think thats about it ... if the track is more flowing I wil run a front spool instead of the diff you get more pull out of the corners I think ... you can also drive it in a little harder .. but driving this way is harder on the tires .. and I did just change the rear link location just before the last heat only to get rained out .. it was originally in the upper hole ... but the back end didnt seem right ot me with the link there .. so I moved it down .. after the next race I will let you know how that works ...

Gonzo ... the shock length is the same as the fronts .. the standard Assc touring shock .. put it in the upper hole on the arm .. its just molded with the two holes to make the arms universal between left and right ... saves you dollars and them dollars ..

have fun racing

E
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Old 06-04-2004, 04:15 PM   #6405
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Default SHOCK LENGTH

I MEANT THE MEASUREMENT OF THE SHOCK IN INCHES OR MILLIMETERS. WHAT TYPE OF TRACK DO U RUN ON?

SMOOTH/ BUMPY
TRACTION - HI/MED/LO
SIZE OF TRACK
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