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Old 05-10-2004, 04:21 AM   #6256
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
True...they can be screwed into the arms just by using both your fingers. Anyone planning to get the Lundsford balls had better match them with new arms. That'll make them fit a little better, but they are loose in the hubs...WAY LOOSE!
Over time even the stock AE pillow balls can get loose in the arm. The more you hit stuff and/or adjust the camber the worse it gets. I have had the camber actually change significantly over the course of a main due to the pillow ball backing itself out. When the pillow balls start to get loose I have used CA to tighten them:
Take the pillow balls out of the arm and put a few drops of CA into the opening in the arm. Spread it around with a toothpick or such. Allow to dry. Then reinsert the pillow ball and voila it's tight again. I have been meaning to also try some ShoeGoo.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:38 AM   #6257
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Thanks for the input on the titanium balls. I drive very clean so I am not worried about strength as much as weight.

I have not raced my NTC3 yet so I wasn't sure of the weight, but it sounds like I don't have anything to worry about.

I was told by the guy I got my car from that he had the pillow balls back out on him during a race also. I am aware of the super glue trick.



Has anyone seen any of the factory drivers setups for the new rear suspension? I imagine the camber and toe remain similar but I am wondering what they use for roll center and shock position for a high bite track?



Thanks
Cody
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:54 AM   #6258
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Thanks for the inputs regarding the V2 lowered arm....and just the pass weekend, we stocked 40 pairs of lower V2 arms and 40 pairs of the rear uprights.........and I am looking forward to sell them all pretty quick at the track (cause almost every V2 user stock at least 2 more package JUST in case)

Like you guys said the old V1 rear turnbuckle design DOES pop out when there is hard impact.....I never broke 1 single piece of parts from the V1 but plenty of times the rear ball pops...I think thats how it save all those rear arms and rear turn knuckles...

V2 is more like MTX3 710 design....and I think the parts that will break easily is the lower arm, lower pins and the arm holders...
But again....NO ONE tell you to touch the board...if you touch the board, you pay the price.....

About PIVOT balls...........$8 for 4 new pivot balls, probably the cheapest pivot balls you can find in all 200mm TC car (compare to $8 EACH for Serpent).....and after testing and seeing those Titanium, aluminium LW or whatever you want to call that pivot balls................the stock metal pivot balls is the best....the last modification I did was using HPI PROCEED pivot ball.......the thread is perfect match with AE but the ball is a hair bigger, so I have to dremel a bit inside the hub.....put the NTC3 on the track....1 touch with the board, it sheared off in the middle..wasted the cheap $12 (each) pivot ball...

After 2 years of racing NTC3, I realized 1 theory on NTC3 pivot ball issue (and you guy should ask you the same question before you buy those GPM Lustford or AE titaniunum stuff...)

DO you want to finish the A main with 4 front bented pivot balls or DO you want to have snapped/broken titanium pivot or aluminium pivot balls and get a DNF...?

I have at least 20 plus bented pivot balls....but since, I rarely have any DNF because of the broken pivot balls.

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 05-11-2004 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:59 AM   #6259
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Quote:
Originally posted by FFR3582
What is the weight of a NTC3 ready to race "team version". How does it compare to say a MTX3 or the new serpent car?
I have just rebuilt a used car and upgraded it to the V2 rear. I am thinking about titanium pivot balls to increase strength and cut weight. Has anyone bent a AE or Lunsford titanium pivot ball on their NTC3?
Cody
I don't know about MTX3, but compare to Serpent (any Serpent) stock NTC3 is a bit lighter then stock S710....to get the S710 the weight like NTC3 (stock) you have to invest some $$$$ to get to that point..

NTC3 at most are barely over the ROAR limit...if I drop some titanium screws (but not pivot balls), turnbuckles and 5 AAA batteries (which I did)...it will definitely go WAY below ROAR legal weight, which is I believe 1750gram (or 1730.....someone care varify that...)

My opinion....NTC3 does not need any weight saving...except the transmission department. But that is NOT because to save wieght, it is for better performance (acceleration)....lower CF.
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Old 05-11-2004, 10:47 AM   #6260
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The ROAR weight for 1/10 is 1725 grams. My NTC3 is 1700 grams. Oh yeah!! I am Sure there is lower, but I am sure proud. Are there any other pipes out there other than the AE one and the Rd logics pipe? Also, are there any screw sets for the NTC3?

- Dust
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Old 05-11-2004, 02:49 PM   #6261
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dust
The ROAR weight for 1/10 is 1725 grams. My NTC3 is 1700 grams. Oh yeah!! I am Sure there is lower, but I am sure proud. Are there any other pipes out there other than the AE one and the Rd logics pipe? Also, are there any screw sets for the NTC3?

- Dust
If your NTC3 weight 1700 fully loaded (I mean equipment loaded not option loaded) with body...........imgaine with the 2 Futaba 9550 low-pro servos, full TI/Aluminium screws and (5) AAA pack will do..........
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Old 05-12-2004, 02:30 AM   #6262
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Quote:
Originally posted by FFR3582
Has anyone seen any of the factory drivers setups for the new rear suspension? I imagine the camber and toe remain similar but I am wondering what they use for roll center and shock position for a high bite track?
I didn't remember to log Barry and Darin's setups for the main in Vegas (definitely high bite: the MTX3's were traction rolling all over the place and I even managed to do it a few times). I won't bore you with a noname's setup, but for a high bite track just run the kit camber link settings with your old v1 setup (or Barry's high bite setups from the AE site) and go from there. The car still has a tendency to push if you're not a “braker like Baker.” If so, just dial in some drag and you are good to go.
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Old 05-12-2004, 07:51 AM   #6263
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What is the major difference between running a 2 and 3 shoe clutch? I have both and have lots of extra new shoes to cut and play with along with the copper springs.

I would guess the 2 shoe clutch may not engage as hard becasue it will have a little less surface area on the bell?


Any input from someone with some experience with this would be appreciated. As of now I have two shoes cut down 4mm with copper springs bent to give more tension. I like my car to have some get go out of the hole.

How much difference does the dual chamber pipe make over the old single chamber pipe? I have a perfect single chamber pipe and used MT12 so I think I will be a little under powered. The guys in the SouthWest series offer some great competition. I will be getting a new 3- port turbo motor soon and RD logics pipe.


Thanks
Cody
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Old 05-12-2004, 09:45 AM   #6264
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Quote:
Originally posted by FFR3582
What is the major difference between running a 2 and 3 shoe clutch? I have both and have lots of extra new shoes to cut and play with along with the copper springs.

I would guess the 2 shoe clutch may not engage as hard becasue it will have a little less surface area on the bell?
Yes and No........my experience about the 2 shoes clutch is....using engine like MT-12 Sirio or those 1.4HP or less 3 port engine....2 shoes are very well suite....by using regular springs. And I felt like the engagment feeling is all about the SPRING that you use.
And like you said, because it has less contact surface compare to 3 shoes...it won't engage as HARD as the 3 shoes, but that is only with the regular motor...


Quote:
Originally posted by FFR3582
Any input from someone with some experience with this would be appreciated. As of now I have two shoes cut down 4mm with copper springs bent to give more tension. I like my car to have some get go out of the hole.
I personally would not CUT a 2 shoes and have a HARD springs on it with the MT-12....the regular springs and full 2 shoes (no cut) is very SMOOTH on accel and exit on corner power.

Quote:
Originally posted by FFR3582
How much difference does the dual chamber pipe make over the old single chamber pipe? I have a perfect single chamber pipe and used MT12 so I think I will be a little under powered. The guys in the SouthWest series offer some great competition. I will be getting a new 3- port turbo motor soon and RD logics pipe.
Get the DUAL CHAMBER pipe......it is a MUST, and you will know the different....dual chamber is like 2 speed vs 1 speed on your car...2 different stage on LOW and HIGH end power.....
If you are getting something like NS3 or NS5 those high power engine...you can try using 3 shoes, cut 4mm each and copper springs.....
If you look at the last couple pages of the NTC3 manual, AE explained the theory behind using 2 shoes and 3 shoes clutch pertaining to what TYPE of engine....
Noraml regular plug engine should use 2 shoes.
HP MOD and powerfull engine should experience 3 shoes with different springs due to the high output of those engine.
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Old 05-12-2004, 09:16 PM   #6265
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dust
The ROAR weight for 1/10 is 1725 grams. My NTC3 is 1700 grams. Oh yeah!! I am Sure there is lower, but I am sure proud. Are there any other pipes out there other than the AE one and the Rd logics pipe? Also, are there any screw sets for the NTC3?

- Dust
Hmm, I have the BMI Gen 2 chassis and I thought I was light at 1790 grams with body and no fuel.
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:50 AM   #6266
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Mine is 1770g with stock AE parts, but I am using V2 suspension now....and I didn't weight the old V1 suspension, I am wondering does the V2 weight MORE or LESS then V1?

Also, if I want to shave that extra 45gram, I will do a 5AAA receiver pack with no ON/OFF switch along with (2) 9550 Futaba Digital servos....that way, I am sure it will get around or less then 1700g...

But...why.
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Old 05-13-2004, 09:06 PM   #6267
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The lighter the weight the better I guess. That way you can place weight where it's needed, to get the balance. I don't think I'd go to the 5 AAA batt pac. the car is alittle light on the right side anyway. Well my BMI is, it's been so long since I used the stock chassis I don't remember the balance on it. The BMI Gen 2 is suppose to be 100 grams lighter than stock. But I have never seen that much gain with it, granted the Gen 2 is lighter than the Gen 1
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Old 05-14-2004, 06:01 AM   #6268
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100 grams? almost 4 ounces? man i have picked up the gen 2 chassis, i did not weigh it but i can't imagine that thing being 3+ ounces lighter than stock. Like i said i did not weigh it but i don't see how that is possible. if anything it felt heavier. The stock chassis is very light. i have had hardcore titanium and dynamite aluminum chassis's before and both were heavier than stock.
bbntc3, maybe the reason you are at 1790 without body and fuel is the chassis?
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Old 05-14-2004, 06:26 AM   #6269
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The BMI gen2 chassis is 100g lighter than the stock setup with the radio tray. My gen1 chassis weighs in at 1800g fully race ready. Plus it is much easier to work on with the BMI configuration.
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:01 AM   #6270
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I love my BMI chassis but I don't find it any easier to work on than the stock chassis. I went back to the stock chassis just because I didn't feel comfortable cleaning the car after each race with all the electronics in it.
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