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Old 04-22-2004, 01:32 PM   #6166
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Default Re: Rear (std) swaybar

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Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
Do note there are three different rear swaybars available.

.055 - 1.4 mm - Black - Optional - AE #3969
.062 - 1.6 mm - Silver - std in FT - AE #3960
.078 - 2 mm - Gold - Optional - AE #3969
#3960 is the std silver one that includes the aluminium balls and plastic cups. The other two are sold together - only the bars, no cups, no nothing else...
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Old 04-22-2004, 05:25 PM   #6167
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I was having problems with my clutch staying on the shaft since i don't have any more lock tite, and thought this might be a better solution, so i was just askin for some opinions..
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:29 PM   #6168
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
What is the real advantage (actual advantage) of having a centax on NTC3..? I have seen quite a lot of centax (kawahara and yokomo and 3racings....) they are not any faster, reaction are definitely not faster, launching is not better but definitely heavier.....
The advantage is that a Centax clutch is infinitely adjustable, and can be adjusted even while installed in the car. Also, some would argue that they do launch harder. Downside is they are complicated and you have to know how to set one up or you can run into all sorts of problems. I'm not sure the price justifies the advantages, but personally I prefer it to the stock shoe clutch.
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Old 04-23-2004, 09:05 AM   #6169
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Agree.........on all of my BELT driven with standard 32 pitch gear box, I would not run it without the CENTAX.

However, I don't really know the scientific reason behind, but the centax is a waste on the NTC3.........well, I can't say waste, but at least I don't see any NTC3 are any faster or better or whatever then the regular 2 shoes clutch.....

But at the end, I know my NTC3 will launch the second that the race start, it is lighter, and I don't have to adjust the clutch like centax does...
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Old 04-23-2004, 09:23 AM   #6170
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skoob
I was having problems with my clutch staying on the shaft since i don't have any more lock tite, and thought this might be a better solution, so i was just askin for some opinions..
I know some ppl will say use the LOCK TITE.....but I never did use any of those on any engine parts including clutch cause I clean and maintaince engine everytime after race......you said your CLUTCH is having problem staying on the shaft, do you mean the METAL NUT that need to be tighten onto the shaft against the flywheel...? If that is your case.............your problem is, you NEED some real TOOLS.

(1) Plumber use pipe grib wrentch
(2) Socket wrentch (to tighten the nut)....forgot what size...10mm will work I think.
(3) OFNA Flywheel holder (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDV1&P=7)

By using item 1 and 2 or 2 and 3.........you don't need to use lock tite, and if you are strong enough, there is no way the NUT will get loose on your shaft....

If you cannot handle the AE 2 shoes clutch, there is NO WAY in the world you will understand and setup the centax clutch....centax is almost like ROCKET SCIENCE in RC car knowledge.........
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Old 04-24-2004, 12:14 AM   #6171
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I understand it fine, i just couldn't get it tight enough it seemed, but i got it and it runs BEAUTIFULLLY now..

except i ran it on my street real quick, and i kept having to watch for cars so i couldn't get it going to fast otherwise it got like HELLA far up the street lol

God, i love the smell of nitro.
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Old 04-24-2004, 01:55 PM   #6172
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Default PRO-tip threads

To start off, don't even think about this PRO-mod if you don't know how to handle basic tools...

On the new Version 2 suspension there is a new rear shocktower that is mounted differently from the earlier version. The earlier mentioned "AEfix" (uses std AE parts) or "TheFix" from BMI can solve the "problem" with stripping the threads in the gearbox covers on the front (or back on version 1 suspension). But on the new version 2 rear suspension that solution can't be used. So come up this idea, to do my own type of heli-coil threads.

In the AE #4442B bag that I used for the "AÉfix" is also 2 shorter posts that I threaded on the outside with a M5 threaded dye (just used an 4-40 socket head screw and a 3/32 hextool to drive the tube through the dye. Then I drilled out the right hand shocktower hole with a 4.5mm drill completely through. De-bur the hole with a model knife. The center rear shockmount hole I drilled out from the inside though (upside down) but not completely through, stopped about 1 mm short.

Edit info: on the picture you can see the middle post in its full lenght, actually it needs to be shorter or beveled slightly or it can touch one side of the diff outdrives.
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Last edited by Niklas Edlund; 04-25-2004 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 04-24-2004, 01:57 PM   #6173
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Default Viewed from the top

The right hand hole drilled completely through and the center rear hole not... The left shocktower hole is so short so I don't think there is room for this (pro)mod there.
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Old 04-24-2004, 01:59 PM   #6174
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Default JB QuickWelded the threaded posts

Smear some JB on the threads and drive the center post through from the bottom. Smeared some extra JB around the post also (don't over do it). Do the same with the right post (JB). Thread it in flush with the top of the house. Before the JB hardens remove any glue that has been smeared in the ball bearing seat. Do it good.

Edit info: The middle post needs to be cut down about 3 mm or beveled as this new picture shows... If you leave it in its full lenght or not beveled it could touch one of the diff outdrives... I did'nt notice that until I had glued it in place... oops. New picture attached.
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Last edited by Niklas Edlund; 04-25-2004 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:01 PM   #6175
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Default Modified rear gearbox cover viewed from the top

So now we have a rear gearbox cover with aluminium threads in 2 out of 3 shockmount holes. Use some blue loctite on these screws. Use 1/2" long socket screws where you have the aluminium thread inserts.

What do you think - will it work?
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:26 PM   #6176
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Either it works, or it will be one spectacular diff blowout!

Have fun!
Will you be going to any races outside Sweden?
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:36 PM   #6177
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Hey Juul,
Yeph, it could go either way... Well, May will be all work and the 1/8 off-road second worlds warm-up (Furulund Friendship race) etc, then we also have the electric euros here in santa-land and then the off-road worlds in August. But right after that we will head down to yodeling-land for the NT200 euros. So I think that will be the only foreign race for us. And U? Did you do the thong-land warm-up race? U go to the WC ? (dont mean toilet this time)
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:42 PM   #6178
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Thong land is only on work days. Actually I fly there from time to time. I think I'll get a flight there during the worlds to go and watch. Competing would cost way too many free days.

For me internationally will be the international race in Heemstede in June and probably the LRP-race in Luxemburg. So I guess we'll meet in the land of austrian beer again. Let's bring a dartboard
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:49 PM   #6179
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Dartboard... must have drunk to many of those redbull/vodka's to remember what that was about the last time there... enlighten me if it was funny or embarising... Oh, no I remember now... I stunk. Milko was the champ at that.
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:52 PM   #6180
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Actually we were both embarrasing. But we were of course handicapped by the huge bottle of Bacardi that Stef brought to the track!

I'll bring the Bop-It Extreme to Austria as well. So we can Bop, spin, flick and pull-it

That sounds awfull actually
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