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Old 04-15-2004, 02:53 PM   #6076
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I have a gearing question for those who tried that before...

I am using 21/27 with 54/48 gearing now...both are 6 tooth different, I know the reason behind that is because the MESHING of the NTC3 is not like others like Serpent mugen or even HPI R40....you CANNOT use something like 22/27(5) with 54/48(6) or 23/27(4) with 54/48(6) spur...........untill now.

However, lately, I heard ppl said I can do that...I saw ppl on other forrm said they used 22/27 with 54/48 and gears are still meshing fine...

I just don't want to try that myself untill someone said they tried it before and work just fine.....anyone?

The other reason I asked is.....BARRY BAKER posted his setup sheet on Silver Bowl 2003 race last year using 21/27(6) with 50/48(2)...........that, I really don't know that is true or just simply typo....
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Old 04-15-2004, 03:17 PM   #6077
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Yea, i'll just splice the wires so they're both probably 6" in long, and then connect the alligator clip near the ends and put a book in between..that's how i fuck around with most electronics, i didn't know i could do that with these batteries though

Again, thanks a shit load..my 12v's for my starter box are charging right now, in about 20mins i'll be breakin in my engine with its first tank
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Old 04-15-2004, 05:06 PM   #6078
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skoob that will work fine, just when you get a chance, try to make a permanent fix, something professional that won't short and carch your pit area or house on fire. radioshack has everything you need for a few bucks.... something that is real cool is get a piece of wood or something non conductive to electricity. and mount the charger to it. than run the charger to sever different power points that have severa different connections so you can just plug in whatever needs plugging in..
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Old 04-15-2004, 05:07 PM   #6079
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Hey guys..i ran into a problem trying to get my engine to start..

i can start it fine after a while, and i have to keep the glow plug connected for it to run since i forgot to plug it in last night..

however, the blue toothed pinion gear once i place the car on the fly wheel, after i push down once, it gets stuck, then push down again usually and it'll turn, but the it spins the blue toothed pinion all the way off of the shaft it's on so it's just staying there because there isn't enough room for it to fall off, and then the motor starts fine..

is there something i didn't do right? i just finished taking off everything on the crankshaft, and then put it back on making sure i followed the directions, it was on right..do i need to use lock tite or something?..the shoulders are facing in like the manual says..any suggestions?
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Old 04-15-2004, 05:16 PM   #6080
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yes, blue lock-tite. just a dot, on the gears (the threads of the gears)
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Old 04-15-2004, 06:43 PM   #6081
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all i've got is purple, wil that be fine?
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Old 04-15-2004, 07:29 PM   #6082
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I have a gearing question for those who tried that before...

I am using 21/27 with 54/48 gearing now...both are 6 tooth different, I know the reason behind that is because the MESHING of the NTC3 is not like others like Serpent mugen or even HPI R40....you CANNOT use something like 22/27(5) with 54/48(6) or 23/27(4) with 54/48(6) spur...........untill now.

However, lately, I heard ppl said I can do that...I saw ppl on other forrm said they used 22/27 with 54/48 and gears are still meshing fine...

I just don't want to try that myself untill someone said they tried it before and work just fine.....anyone?

The other reason I asked is.....BARRY BAKER posted his setup sheet on Silver Bowl 2003 race last year using 21/27(6) with 50/48(2)...........that, I really don't know that is true or just simply typo....
I was using a 5 tooth split in the past as I was using the AE.12 RTR engine. No problems at all but you will need to really make sure the mesh for the 1st and 2nd gear is correct with some freeplay. You may have to tilt the motor left or right a slight bit to make it fit. I would not recommend you do this with a high powered engine as the difference in ratio in minimal. Try this only if your engine is not powerful. I was using 21/26 54/50 as the track required quick acceleration and high speed.
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:33 AM   #6083
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never heard of purple loc-tite, as long as it isn't red. give her a try...
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:35 AM   #6084
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skoob
all i've got is purple, wil that be fine?
get the one from AE, works best for RC. The one you got is from loctite - medium strength.
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:41 AM   #6085
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Quote:
Originally posted by tallyrc
never heard of purple loc-tite, as long as it isn't red. give her a try...
Sometimes it's blue. Sometimes it's purple in colour.
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:45 AM   #6086
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Aite slapped that puppy on, have to wait till tomorow though to test this baby out..it was 9:40 when it had sat for 30mins, and i didnt want to piss of the neighbors

btw, where can i get those washers that go on the bottom of the fuel tank so i can put two of them on like nik suggested?

and any other tips so that the fuel tank isn't a washing machine? i saw what you guys meant, i was getting sprayed with fuel when i first started it up lol, oh yea and there's nothing special that has to be done with the little white thing ont top of the fuel lid right? is that the pressure nipple?

Last edited by Skoob; 04-16-2004 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 04-16-2004, 07:30 AM   #6087
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those washers, buy any associated shock rebuild kit, or gs makes "shock o-rings" for kits. an associated kit will run you about $1.90.... you get 8 in every pack. get the ntc3 kit and you even get spart parts for your car!!

sprayed with fuel? did you have th elid open? i personally think folks are nuts as my fuel system has never been a problem..even the old type when the pressure nipple wasn't on the lid. it's the same tank that has been fine in the GT for like 13 years now..suddenly it sucks????
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Old 04-16-2004, 07:33 AM   #6088
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those washers, buy any associated shock rebuild kit, or gs makes "shock o-rings" for kits. an associated kit will run you about $1.90.... you get 8 in every pack. get the ntc3 kit and you even get spart parts for your car!!
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Old 04-16-2004, 11:39 AM   #6089
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when i say sprayed, was only a couple drops, not like fuel everywhere..

so the lil orange rings are shock-rings, aite thanks

Edit:

I was just looking back a couple of pages, and i noticed this picture

..

Now if you look at this



On my car i have the tube going from #2, should i be moving it to #1 to supress the washer effect of the tank?..i think thats where most of the fuelw as coming out that i was getting 'sprayed' with..

Last edited by Skoob; 04-16-2004 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:12 PM   #6090
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Yes, move the pressure line to go from your pipe to the nozzle on the lid. I did the same thing you did and put it to the hole next to where the fuel line goes to, because the instructions said to. But these are the new style tanks and the pressure hole is no longer next to the fuel insert but in fact the nozzle on the lid. It should look exactly like the pic. (the first one without your lines and numbers)
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