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Old 04-12-2004, 03:07 PM   #6031
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We mostly use 42 shore front and rear, we also use 45 shore front with 42 rear. And sometime go to a 40 shore rear. The higher the # the harder the tire.
Try and remember to not go anymore than 5 shore different front to rear, any more shore difference than that, you need to change the setup. We've tried alot of different companys foams, and we found that GQ and CRC Track Magnets have the best traction and wear for us.
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Old 04-12-2004, 03:08 PM   #6032
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Hmm, it sunds like the shoes you used where'nt glued in the middle to the wheel corectly... I have'nt heard that problem here but then we have just started to distribute the Nitro shoes.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:28 PM   #6033
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Personally, I will stay away from NITRO SHOES.....don't get me wrong, when I tried their foams, I thought I will never use something else (like Elleggi, Fast tires, or speed mind...etc)...however, after several runs, the foams are either split in the middle, or start chunking in the middle.....NOT the side, right in the middle....

I tried at least 3 set, all of them are splitting in the middle and chunking in the middle....

I can understand chunking on the side for hard cornering.....but middle? that is just poor quality.

So lately, I switched back to Ellegi, Fast Tires or Speedmind........I usually TRY to run front and rear the same shore, which is all around 40 shores...but if REAR tracking and COOL weather occured, I will switch to rear 37 (softer) just in case.........car is very good steering when using 40 shores....if I need more steering, probably change to softer springs and open damper before switching to 37 shores at front.

P.S. you can only use 0 offset to comply with ROAR rules....only Nitro shoes has 2 degree offset or 0 degree offset.
I have the same problem with them, splits in the middle but from what I understand is that there are some problems with the old batch and the new batch will not have this problem.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:32 PM   #6034
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Quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
Earlier in this thread there has been lots and lots of talk about foaming fuel or "washer" effect. I have noticed it also sometimes and noticed that the tank will rub against the front left chassi brace, took the dremel and a small sander drum and removed some material from the post and used two orings on the tank screws (they need to be longer also) and at the EC in Portugal last year the foaming stopped if I remember it correctly.
Hi!, I have tried this before but maybe I did it wrongly, after running a couple of tanks, I noticed that the lower o-rings will expand to allow the upper o-rings to take its place. End of day I only get 1 o-ring dampening and the three tank screws are exposed at the bottom of the chassis. I think it may be the weight of the fuel or the process of lifting the cap to refuel might have put pressure on the o-rings. I wonder if fuel tubing will be a good dampener instead?

Last edited by spawn; 04-12-2004 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:03 PM   #6035
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I am using monotuning tires on my factory team, they are very good.
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:17 PM   #6036
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What are monotuning tires?
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:22 PM   #6037
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www.monotuning.com
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Old 04-12-2004, 08:30 PM   #6038
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Thanks
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Old 04-12-2004, 09:33 PM   #6039
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Try not to tighten the screws up too much when using 2 o'rings. The 2 o'ring deal is not a cure . Your not suspending the tank, just sorta helping dampen the tank with 2 o'rings. Leave the screws loose. I 've seen people make a carbon fiber plate spacing it above the shaft and connecting it to the deck on the steering servo side and then use a mugen or serpent tank. (mugen) You could drill 2 new holes use HPI upper deck stand offs and a mugen tank. (Ugly but most effective.) If you choose this method be sure and mount the new tank as far foward and to the left side of the car as possible.The problem is excessive exhaust pressure + vibration, which is explained way back in the BS of this thread. LOL... My tank never rubbed the chassis brace and had this problem. Also maybe use the K-factory tank+ 2 o'rings, it 's baffled, and seems to help .
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Old 04-12-2004, 09:38 PM   #6040
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Try not to tighten the screws up too much when using 2 o'rings. The 2 o'ring deal is not a cure . Your not suspending the tank, just sorta helping dampen the tank with 2 o'rings. Leave the screws loose. I 've seen people make a carbon fiber plate spacing it above the shaft and connecting it to the deck on the steering servo side and then use a mugen or serpent tank. (mugen) You could drill 2 new holes use HPI upper deck stand offs and a mugen tank. (Ugly but most effective.) If you choose this method be sure and mount the new tank as far foward and to the left side of the car as possible.The problem is excessive exhaust pressure + vibration, which is explained way back in the BS of this thread. LOL... My tank never rubbed the chassis brace and had this problem. Also maybe use the K-factory tank+ 2 o'rings, it 's baffled, and seems to help .
thanks for the tip, I have the k-factory tank but I seem to have some problem with the tank, 1st not being able to fully use all the fuel in the tank and second, the engine seems to lean towards the end of the tank.
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Old 04-12-2004, 10:09 PM   #6041
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Rookie Solara

Do you have those defective tires?
If so please send them in for free replacement.

That should not happen, in fact I am surprised considering how our glue machine and proccedures makes it almost impossible.

again our appologies,

that is a weird fluke.

the split (between rings) can happen from time to time if the rubber is really fresh when it is laminated. the glue sometimes will not take, this is undetectable until use.

again we would warranty that. send in any tires with "splits" and we would send you out replacements.

we stand behind our product!


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Old 04-13-2004, 09:14 AM   #6042
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Quote:
Originally posted by Korgae
Rookie Solara

Do you have those defective tires?
If so please send them in for free replacement.

That should not happen, in fact I am surprised considering how our glue machine and proccedures makes it almost impossible.

again our appologies,

that is a weird fluke.

the split (between rings) can happen from time to time if the rubber is really fresh when it is laminated. the glue sometimes will not take, this is undetectable until use.

again we would warranty that. send in any tires with "splits" and we would send you out replacements.

we stand behind our product!


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Korgae.......thanks for the offering, and I am very happy to hear someone like you would step up and explain to the buyer and have a full responsbility for the replacement, to be honest, I would not mind to ship them all back to you, but as a team manager, I have...ah, good 50-60 set of NITRO SHOES are having the same problem, and some are new in box that we would not want to try them and get a DNF on the main, unfortunately, I didn't keep them afterall, except like good 6-10 pairs that are all ripped in the middle but they were ran like 6-10 laps only.........if you still want me to send them for you as a SAMPLE (for future improvement of your products) I would love to do that........

I can tell you 1 more thing....back in 2002, a MAJOR BATCH of Ellegi and Fast tires has the EXACT same problem, and Ellegi did the exact same thing for the customer (full replacement) however, the different is, their foams were SPLIT in the middle or kinda middle where the JOIN of the foams at (just like you use a cutter and slide it in the middle of the foam, thats it)....but they were just split, they didn't CHUNK out into pieces like the NITRO SHOES does that we had......

ALSO, I forgot 1 important thing about nitro shoes..........the same batch that we got (early last year, we purchased like 100 set and put them on sale at the track).........almost 6 out of 10 of those, their rims, are VERY VERY easy to break...............I cannot believe that, so I tried 1 set on my NTC3, I am not a rookie racer, so touching wall is not something I do all the time, but you cannot aviod SOMEONE touching you....about 6 laps on the heat...a slower car got nervious I was approaching...touch the side of my NTC3 and pushed me to the wall a little, both rear and front left side of the wheel ripped the wall, the whole rear rim FLY OUT of the chassis and the front rim was cracked and barely hanging on the chassis except the hub piece are still in the car.....then, several racers complaint about the same issue, cracked rims, broken rims, ALL OCCURED at the same spot........at the end of the day, I had received about 5 set of refund of your products.....

I am not asking the refund from you, it is just business, but at that point, I stop purchasing the NITRO SHOES, the foam material of the shoes are definitely UP to my standard, but the spliting, chunking and glass material like rims, that is unacceptable....not for any racing.

I will go home and take some pictures of all those very new Nitro shoes with ripped foams, and cracked, broken rims nitro shoes, for your future reference..........

But I believe, just like someone said, it was just a small individual problem, but just happened on me, and our friend that had a really weird experience cause TIRES is probably the last item that we will expect to have problem on the main.
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Old 04-13-2004, 09:30 AM   #6043
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I have noticed that alot of my Nitro shoes will either chunk out, split, or if i hit the wall the middle of the rim will break and the wheel will fly off but the part where the lugnut is is still there. So i have a chunk out of the rim in the middle. very strange.

now when i brushed the wall i did it twice and not going very fast since in was slowing for a corner.
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Old 04-13-2004, 09:42 AM   #6044
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Niklas Edlund, what is yuour site?
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Old 04-13-2004, 09:50 AM   #6045
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Quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
Hmm, it sunds like the shoes you used where'nt glued in the middle to the wheel corectly... I have'nt heard that problem here but then we have just started to distribute the Nitro shoes.
Niklas......I am sure you will up to this task, I have a project that you might be able to help me, since I just have a new born, to spend time on RC this season is getting very difficult, but with the new rear upright design for the FT NTC3, I think you are the right person to tell everyone this is a good idea or not...

I am talking about "REAR ROLL CENTER" adjustment........actually, there is NONE on FT NTC3, but I remembered when Serpent release the IMPULSE PRO 2 years after the release of the IMPULSE, one of the rear modification they did was the 7mm standoff spacer........according from them, this tuning aid ensures maximum grip at the rear for the fastest acceleration and improved cornering. And the thickness of the spacers are also the key (in that case, serpent only offer a 7mm)

I am thinking we should try a 0mm, 3mm, 5mm and 7mm standoff spacer (by using 1mm spacer and keep adding them) if you see all the new released TC right now, front and rear roll center adjustment are almost standard...........not sure they are all making a hugh different, but at least, 1 more feature to add for finer adjustment......

Here is the picture of the SERPENT spacer....





Here is the pictures of the FT NTC3 rear upright where the new spacer need to be added (picture from Niklas Edlund)





What do you guys think...? Any input?
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