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Old 04-11-2004, 08:30 AM   #6001
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Yes you need to because without it, the tank holds over the limit of fuel.
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:49 PM   #6002
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Default Building notes FT-NTC3 Version 2 / "Part 5"

Exhaust system
A blue 2-chamber exhaust system is included in the FT, strangely as it may seem but it still does'nt include a pressure tap. So of course we need to attach one - no racer would race it with the tube stuck into its original hole, right?

I used a pressure nipple from HongNor (#156), I guess its also available from Ofna or you might find another suitable 90 degree tap from some other source. I first glued the M3 tap in its 90 deg housing with JB Quick Weld. Also cut the M4 thread so it did'nt have to go deep into the pipe after I had threaded it in place. In this picture you also see the plug I prepared from some left over aluminium "bushing" I found. Even that is cut down so it wont go in the pipe more then the thickness of the pipe wall.
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:50 PM   #6003
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Default Relocate the tap

I choose to relocate the pressure tap to the second chamber instead if its original place in the first chamber. I think it's no big difference in the two locations. The pressure from the second chamber is a little less. I have no ilution that it will be better though. I drilled a 3.5mm hole and tapped it with a M4 tap. Also grinded the anodizing away around the two holes so the "weld" would bond better.
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:52 PM   #6004
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Default JB Quick Weld it...

Actually I did 2 systems, an additional grey one also. Here is how the glued 90 deg tap and plug looked when "welded" in place with JB Quick Weld.
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:53 PM   #6005
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Default De-burring

Before I glued the stuff to the pipe I "cleaned" the exhaust adapter from any sharp edges etc as normaly done by any mechanic in any gas size would do... I also cut it down 7mm in lenght (the other one I did 10 mm shorter - want to test different lenghts). Drilled a couple of new 1mm holes for the exhaust retaining spring to suit the angle I mount it at better also.
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Last edited by Niklas Edlund; 04-12-2004 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:55 PM   #6006
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Default + the pipe...

And of course the same dremel cleaning up in the pipe. Smoother, no hard edges etc = more power. Thats it for tonight.
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Old 04-11-2004, 03:57 PM   #6007
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Quote:
Yes you need to because without it, the tank holds over the limit of fuel.
Thanks!

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Old 04-11-2004, 04:01 PM   #6008
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Racer: but you are responsible for that the volume is ok. Sometimes we have had to use 2 inserts to get the volume down to a legal size (mostly when its really hot).
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Old 04-11-2004, 04:14 PM   #6009
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I am looking for a list of parts I would need to order to convert the rear end of my NTC3 to a FTNTC3 ver2 style rear end. Does anybody have a list of parts and maybe a few scanned images of the pages in the FTNTC3 manual showing how to assemble the rear end properly? Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2004, 04:19 PM   #6010
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Default Page 195

For V2 suspension partnumbers: Go to page 195 in this thread...
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Old 04-11-2004, 09:43 PM   #6011
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We moved the pressure nipple in the dual chamber pipe, a year or so ago. Pressure in the second chamber is less and the engine seemed to hold tune better. Performance gain ?? (none)
Kinda funny though, we use the Rd pipe now and the fitting is in the first chamber also, engine holds tune, performance is better than Ae pipe. So I moved the fitting to second chamber, and the performance seemed less. The wave and pressure in the two pipes are alot different.
This has all been layed out farther back in the thread. But , who wants to read 200+ pages.

Nicklas: Keep up the good work!
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Old 04-11-2004, 09:46 PM   #6012
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
We moved the pressure nipple in the stock pipe sometime last year. The presssure in the second chamber is less and the engine seemed to hold tune better. Performance gain ?? (none)
Kinda funny though, we use the Rd pipe now and the fitting is in the first chamber also, engine holds tune, performance is better than Ae pipe. So I moved the fitting to second chamber, and the performance seemed less. The wave and pressure in the two pipes are alot different.
This has all been layed out farther back in the thread. But , who wants to read 200+ pages.

Nicklas: Keep up the good work!
One thing I noticed using the RD pipe is that the pressure does not make the fuel foam.
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Old 04-11-2004, 10:02 PM   #6013
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Yes moving the nipple also helps what we called the (Washing machine) effect in the tank. Which to me, help cause the tuning problems the car had. Some type of baffled tank or isolating the tank from vibration is the only real cure. But we won't go there! (been there, done that in the past). All I'll say is when you've tried all the rest go to the best! BMI Chassis!! If you have trouble keeping high HP engines tuned and are tired of chasing the setup and tweak on the car all day long, BMI is the only way to go!
Costly?? I guess, but the best hopup you will ever buy for the NTC3.
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Old 04-11-2004, 10:05 PM   #6014
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Yes moving the nipple also helps what we called the (Washing machine) effect in the tank. Which to me, help cause the tuning problems the car had. Some type of baffled tank or isolating the tank from vibration is the only real cure. But we won't go there! (been there, done that in the past). All I'll say is when you've tried all the rest go to the best! BMI Chassis!! If you have trouble keeping high HP engines tuned and are tired of chasing the setup and tweak on the car all day long, BMI is the only way to go!
Costly?? I guess, but the best hopup you will ever buy for the NTC3.
The BMI chassis looks like a beauty, sadly I dont have the funds for it. I am pretty happy with my GH chassis for this moment.
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Old 04-12-2004, 02:19 PM   #6015
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Default Building notes FT-NTC3 Version 2 / "Part 6"

Aluminium swaybar mounts
Before you jump to any misconceptions - no, I dont think one can use booth the adjustable swaybar and the normal one in the rear (for those of you that looked at the picture before reading the text). I just shot the picture with booth of them on the car so I didnt need to shot two different sets of pics... read on.

If you have stuck with my FT project from the beginning (page 196 I think) you know I prefer the composite mounts in favor for the aluminium mounts thats included with the FT NTC3 car. One of the reasons is due to the fact that they (AE) have included two of the 2-56 screws in the wrong length. These are the out-most screw on each mount. The inner screw has about 1/4 of available thread in the suspension arm, but the outer screw has only about 1/8 left and thats short for any self tapping screw and in particular the tiny 2-56's.

Just deepen the outmost holes with a 4.5mm drill about 1/8 deep. Now you may look at the picture! That way booth of the two 2-56 screws will have about the same strength in their threads.

Ohh, almost forgot - the rear adjustable swaybar and aluminium mounts for it is optional for the FT. The std bar is included though (adjustable in tweak but not hardness).
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