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Old 04-06-2004, 10:02 PM   #5986
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I am going to Japan this thursday. Does anyone know if I can purchace this centax clutch for the NTC3 there. Also, are there a lot of Hobby shops there?

Thanks
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Old 04-07-2004, 06:13 AM   #5987
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Default clutch

if u use the centex clutch from mugen on ntc3 you have o use the
0.8 pinion gears 21 -27 1.0 will not match ,also be sure to get the small flywheel /mirco or flywheel wil stick out to far ,note depending on what type of chassis u run u may have to grinds some on the motor mounts to chasssis holes , once done will not
have to worry about two shoe .,three shoe glazing up and slipping in a long race also think about getting the rd logic pipe
better top end power with a nova base motor !
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:21 AM   #5988
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Default Re: clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by isuzuguy
if u use the centex clutch from mugen on ntc3 you have o use the
0.8 pinion gears 21 -27 1.0 will not match ,also be sure to get the small flywheel /mirco or flywheel wil stick out to far ,note depending on what type of chassis u run u may have to grinds some on the motor mounts to chasssis holes , once done will not
have to worry about two shoe .,three shoe glazing up and slipping in a long race also think about getting the rd logic pipe
better top end power with a nova base motor !
I think what jwf_frani and sup saying is to get the 1.0 gearing Mugen Centax, not the 0.8 gearing centax (which no one is selling) that they just came out....I understand NTC3 is already a 0.8 gearing, but I was asking ppl how can I get a taller gearing like 28 or 29T on the 2nd pinion that was made by MUGEN and HONG NOR.....

The reason we can find all those 1.0 Mugen Centax is because ppl are upgrading to the 0.8 gearing, I believed.

In order for me to do that, I have to use CENTAX clutch, and MUGEN is a lot cheaper (also, plenty of ppl are selling on ebay now) then Hong Nor version or Yokomo version (cause I have to buy them new most likely).....then I will have to remove their 1.0 gearing and use the Hong Nor or Mugen 0.8 gearing....then I have to RAISE the engine a little higher, cause, stock NTC3 flywheel is 32mm and I believe all those mugen 1.0 gearing centax are 34, 35mm.................so I have to raise them instead.

Well, I think I might settle with the stock 21/27 3 shoes clutch instead...like Niklas Edlund said, taller might not necessary better.......but I have these Nova Mega 5 port SS engine.........just want to see hows the 1.9HP can do if I top it out with the 29T/48T combo.....
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:26 AM   #5989
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dust
I am going to Japan this thursday. Does anyone know if I can purchace this centax clutch for the NTC3 there. Also, are there a lot of Hobby shops there?

Thanks
Can you bring me 2-3 HPI R40 2004 spec from Japan for me...? Really...will pay for handling and shipping....

That damn car only sells in Japan.....not for export.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:50 AM   #5990
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If I'm not wrong the NTC3 uses 32 pitch gears - wich is close to the metric 1.0 but "bigger" then the Metric 0.8...
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:40 AM   #5991
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Same here........I am still using the 3 years old stock black diff gear....I have seen others stripped front and rear diff, most of them are running the AE front 1-way....and some are Yokomo 1-way....but I am running stock ball diff..........

I think they have to check on the correct shim amount....I am using whatever manual told me to, and nothing happened to my NTC3 for like 60 plus races....I even purchased the revised white/yellow diff gears from AE just incase my stock one will fail on me....almost a year now, I still haven't open the revised gear yet.....now, I am not sure do I really need those...LOL.

Oh....use some light grease on the gear will help....I check the diff on every 2-3 races.
I think they had a bad run of plastic and changing the color was one way of telling good ones from possible bad(gray)
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:40 AM   #5992
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Quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
If I'm not wrong the NTC3 uses 32 pitch gears - wich is close to the metric 1.0 but "bigger" then the Metric 0.8...
Well, I will not say NO, but if your definition of 32 pitch is same as the AE or other's 32 pitch, then NTC3 is not the same 32 pitch then most of the typical 32 pitch gearing...

For example, I tried to buy a Duratrax 32 pitch 46T spur gears and planning to do some modification and hope it will work on the NTC3....since Kimbaugh stating that NTC3 use 32 pitch gear, but I tried to get that 32 pitch 46T spur gear from Duratrax off road truck for the NTC3, the gear does not match, not even close.

So, I don't really understand that whole 32 pitch thing....from my old RC12L1 pan car, it use 32 pitch gears, and those 32 pitch gears probably will match the original 1.0 gearing like Serpent, Mugen and others....but NTC3's special 32 pitch gear is not even close to those 1.0 gearing even though it said it is 32 pitch according from Kimbrough.....

Overall, I think AE's 32 pitch is the STANDARD 32 pitch gearing compare to the rest of the world's metric system's 32 pitch, they are not the same 32 pitch....

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 04-07-2004 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:12 AM   #5993
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Rookie solara is right on the pinion pitch count AE might
have it it as 32 but it is a different pitch from a standard
every other comp. goes by. it is actually a .08 module gear
thats why the pinion count on the ntc3 is so high.

Just to clear things up the Clutch yokomo makes is designed
for the NTC3 with included 21-27 gears. the clutch should work
like the mugen clutch because the weights and clutch surface area
is identical. The clutch bell is a little different just in spacing to
make sure the gear mesh is perfect.

Yokomo actually makes a lot of products for the nct3
like the bladder caps, foam tires 0 off set.

another product that seems interesting for the car is
the m mielke pipe.
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Old 04-07-2004, 11:44 PM   #5994
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Default Last questoin before i'm completely finished..well i am alrady completely finished..

well i am alrady completely finished..

but, i was wondering where is the best place to store the fuel?..right now its in a plastic bag inside my house in a corner..its not near an A/C and its sittingon the ground, will the plastic bag keep it fine? I'll probably use most of it when i start the to run-in the engine next week, and i'll probably run it a lot, atleast twice a week for a while, with friends and stuff so i don't think it'll be there that long, but is this a fine place to store it? ors hould i move it to a cabinet in the garage?

Also, do you guys reccomend i get some after-run oil or no? and if so which kind?
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Old 04-09-2004, 01:34 AM   #5995
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Default Re: Last questoin before i'm completely finished..well i am alrady completely finished..

Quote:
Originally posted by Skoob
well i am alrady completely finished..

but, i was wondering where is the best place to store the fuel?..right now its in a plastic bag inside my house in a corner..its not near an A/C and its sittingon the ground, will the plastic bag keep it fine? I'll probably use most of it when i start the to run-in the engine next week, and i'll probably run it a lot, atleast twice a week for a while, with friends and stuff so i don't think it'll be there that long, but is this a fine place to store it? ors hould i move it to a cabinet in the garage?

Also, do you guys reccomend i get some after-run oil or no? and if so which kind?
just don't put it direct to cement ground coz it will evaporate due to moisture. yes it's best to put after run oil to preserve the engine. im using hobbico and trinity after run oil.
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Old 04-09-2004, 02:00 AM   #5996
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Most important with after-run procedures is to empty the engine and tank of remaining fuel. Then start it up on idle and burn off-any left overs. Then you could add some sort of oil also to lube the bearings - normal WD40 works as good as any. At least here with the fuels we have. The thing is that its very seldom any of these so called after-run oils mix with the fuel anyway, so if there is a "pool" of left over fuel in the motor just adding after-run oil will make it two side-by side pools of fluids so to speak...
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Old 04-09-2004, 09:34 PM   #5997
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For after run oil I like to use Marvel Mystery Oil, it works great and its cheap. About the the tank, I empty as much as I can, but I go one step further, I also disconect the fuel line from the carb and I conect it to the pressure niple on the top of the tank. This way no fuel or fumes will go into the engine or anywhere else.
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:31 AM   #5998
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one thing also after emptying the tank. put after run oil and i crank it 2 or 3 so that the oil can circulate
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:56 PM   #5999
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Just read a article, FT version still have high speed puch, but less than original. Kindna worried about getting one.
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Old 04-11-2004, 06:31 AM   #6000
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Default Volume Compensator

So far so good. Aside from a pivot ball having bogus threads on it, my factory team has gone together rather well. Question though, does roar require you to run the volume compensator that is included in the gas tank?

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