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Old 03-31-2004, 10:29 PM   #5926
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Niklas, For the AE fix, where did you get the 1.25" screws? Also, Is there any carbon fiber parts in the kit?

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Old 04-01-2004, 12:28 AM   #5927
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Scoob: my camera isnt set-up in the bedroom so I cant do that kind of effects...
The countersunk 1.25" bought from www.fastener-express.com
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Old 04-01-2004, 12:31 AM   #5928
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Dust: Forgott... yes, there are plenty of carbon reinforced composites all over the car... But I guess you mean the normal carbon plates - no. But what good would that do?
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Old 04-01-2004, 09:19 AM   #5929
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Dust

you have a pm.
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Old 04-01-2004, 09:21 AM   #5930
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niklas do you can post some pics of the finished car , because i might try to update mine.
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:27 AM   #5931
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If it only was ready... The pics I've showed are at the current building state -> its not ready yet.
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Old 04-02-2004, 11:54 AM   #5932
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Default Fuelstop chart

Friday evening treat... I've attached an fuel stop chart for the finals... We print them out and wrap them with a these office plastic machines (dont know what they're called in english...).Perfect for your pitman so he'll call U in at the right time.

First off is a jpg version (I'll try and compress the pdf file also - too big now to upload).
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File Type: jpg fuelstopntc3.jpg (125.9 KB, 213 views)
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:09 PM   #5933
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Default Roll-out chart (jpg)

Another treat... Here's a roll-out chart for the NTC3. Do note, the 28T pinion is not an AE part.
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:35 PM   #5934
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Default Re: Roll-out chart (jpg)

Quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
Another treat... Here's a roll-out chart for the NTC3. Do note, the 28T pinion is not an AE part.
28T...where do you get the 28T..? I knew someone tried to make one but not success...thanks
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Old 04-02-2004, 01:49 PM   #5935
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We used the HongNor centax clutch and the 28T is available for that cluct (Ofna in the US).
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Old 04-02-2004, 02:27 PM   #5936
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Rookie: Picture of the HongNor Centax clutch...
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Old 04-02-2004, 04:02 PM   #5937
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HOW MUCH DOES ONE OF THOSE CLUTCHES COST? WHAT IS THAT NIPPLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CARB USED FOR?

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Old 04-02-2004, 04:04 PM   #5938
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Price - Check with Ofna - the tap is for a boost bottle.
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Old 04-03-2004, 12:39 PM   #5939
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Default Building notes FT-NTC3 Version 2 / "Part 4"

Shocks
The FT-NTC3 comes with onobtanium shafts and the latest aluminium ball-end lower eyelet (blue ball in the pictures) - nice. Build them as the manual says and preferably use AE green-slime on the orange o-rings for extra lubrication. It just feels better. Pro tip: This is an old modification but still quite nice, ever had problems in bleeding your AE shocks? Here's an quite easy way of attacking that "problem". See the attached picture (sorry but its kind of bad). Drill a 1.5 mm hole in the shock cap at the location according to the picture. Drill it at a straight angle and the hole will align perfectly on the inside cup cavity. Use a Parma #484 self tapping screw (16D slotracing motor screw).

Fill the shocks as you normally would. Screw in the Parma screw in the cap, but you dont need to tighten it at this time. After emptying the shocks of bubbles, fill it way up with the pistons in down position - as much as you can fill without it pouring out. Fill also the cap with oil. Quickly screw the cap on the schock. Un-screw the bleed-screw and push the piston rod about half way up (or at any height you might prefere) and the extra oil would pour out (together with the air). Screw the bleed-screw in there again. In this way you can do them exactly the same.
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Old 04-03-2004, 12:41 PM   #5940
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Default Version 2 rear suspension

Now its time for the rear 3-point uprights. They pretty much are assembled as an steering block regarding the pivot balls etc. When doing the front you polished all eight balls and put aside the four that where the most straight, right? These are the ones for the rear 3-pont hubs. I had a problem in the beginning to get the rear suspension to be completely smooth. It helped with polishing the pivot balls and noticing the fact that the suspension balls are not 100% straight all of them... Find four of them that run true when spinning in a drill and use them in the rear. If the ball is slightly off-center the C-C messurement could be off when adjusting some rear toe... That was why the rear hubs didnt run smooth on this car before I found the problem. There is no problem in using the slightly off-center pivot balls in the steering knuckles though.

Of course used the Factory Team clamping hexes even in the rear. In this picture you also can see the finished shock with its bleed-screw.

Do note again, in the kit there is way more 4-40 aluminium socket screws then you can see on my pix. In some areas I just like the steel ones better. Its your choice when its time for you to build your own FT to use more of the included blue screws - but this is my car...
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File Type: jpg rearshockv2.jpg (154.4 KB, 191 views)

Last edited by Niklas Edlund; 04-30-2004 at 01:56 PM.
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