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Old 03-30-2004, 11:43 AM   #5911
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skoob
Well, here's some pics of my car..

OK... ehemmm...

i will tell you the truth.

GOOD JOB!

ok... another truth...

you need to redo the body again. i mean not only repaint it...actually what kind of paint style it is not a problem... and your style is COOL also!

but.... this is the BUT... so listen up...


if you look at your body... you have destroyed all the VITAL part of your car body. You cut the body WRONGLY dude. You wont get all the downforce, all the nice air flow and all that AERODYNAMIC thingies for your car to run smooth!

i tell you man!!! if you have a proper body.... cut it nicely ... BUT you dont have the rear spoiler... you will have difficulty to drive your car...

so.. if you are into racing... (or a faster ROOKIE who like to drive a fast car)... then redo your body and you can always maintain the style that you have.....

oops.. and dont forget to cut the air intake hole for engine cooling!!!

and please find somebody to used to run a nitro.... as your friend... close friend... before you start your NITRO SEASON... yeah!

0.02 on me.

mop
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Old 03-30-2004, 05:18 PM   #5912
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it was a 190mm body, there fore cutting had to happen..

also, i painted it backwards (how i'm used to painting figurines) with the primer on bottom..oops..so the other paint had to go on top lol, on the outside of the body..

it's not for racing anyway, the racing body i do get will be an actual 200mm body, this one is just to hold me over, and it was the only body i'vegot right now..

so, to get the 190mm to fit on the car, it had to be cut, mainly around the wheels

Oh yea, and here's some updated pics..






also, is there any downside to painting the rims over? i just used a black primer to change them from white to black, i know it'll chip eventually but i'll just respray it..

and what would happen if i used it on the muffler? just mainly the tip so it would match on the outside..would it create to much heat or anything?
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:48 PM   #5913
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Electralyte greese, well that's what I call it, it's actually Dielectric Grease. It can be purchased at any Autoparts store. use little amounts on the ring and pinion.
I have been watching the pins in the GPM cvds, it looks like a week link for sure.
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:50 PM   #5914
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Default Building notes FT-NTC3 Version 2 / "Page 3"

Short notes from the wrench-shop... Used longer 5/8" screws from the bottom with the front and rear chassi braces (stronger bond, less threads stripping).

Front: Also used the earlier mentioned "AEfix" in the front shock mount (see earlier tip and pics). Drilled the third hole in the steering blocks for the alternative ackerman. Take out all of the suspension pivot balls (front and rear) and polish them with a polishing compound. When you have them up and spinning in the drill, check which is the four that run the most true and put them aside for the rear hubs. I used the thicker / beefier ballcups for the steering turnbuckles from the off-road cars (AE #7230) - they need to be shortened slightly (cut with hobby knife). Small pattern alu lock nut (AE #4449) on top of the steering arms. Factory Team clamping wheel hexes (option AE #3973)
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Last edited by Niklas Edlund; 04-30-2004 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:53 PM   #5915
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Another view of the front end. The in-between hole in the steering arm is more visible. Aluminium screws are included for like the steering knuckle ball-cups but I use button head steel screws instead (AE). The "AEfix" on the shockmount is better visible in this picture.
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:55 PM   #5916
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Rear: Just attached the V2 rear shock tower... Check the width on the carry-handle...
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Old 03-31-2004, 01:56 PM   #5917
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The handle is manily for carrying the car around in the pits, right? I shaved it off (about half thickness tapering to the top) - saved about 2 grams... All for now, ciao.
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Old 03-31-2004, 02:56 PM   #5918
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Quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
The handle is manily for carrying the car around in the pits, right? I shaved it off (about half thickness tapering to the top) - saved about 2 grams... All for now, ciao.
Are you a part time photographer...? Nice pictures, they almost look like official AE FTNTC3 pictures posted on AE site.....go tell AE they might hired you as a freelance photographer for the NTC3....
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:06 PM   #5919
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Ads and stuff full time...
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:27 PM   #5920
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No offence, but i think I did better with the camera then Scoob
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:36 PM   #5921
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niklas how thick are the factory team chassis?
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:39 PM   #5922
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Same as the std NTC3 chassi (dont have a caliper here). Just black. With all carbon stuff on, its rock solid.
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Old 03-31-2004, 04:32 PM   #5923
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Quote:
Originally posted by Niklas Edlund
No offence, but i think I did better with the camera then Scoob
I doubt that..

You don't have a scary looking stuffed leopard in the background of any of your pics do you?

Didn't think so
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Old 03-31-2004, 08:44 PM   #5924
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A word of advice to the NTC3 drivers, use 3mm screws on the cases, they wont strip as easy, you can also use them on the suspension arm shock mounts. The heads of the socket heads screws is litttle big, but they fit great. Button heads work great too, and the heads are not as big. When I had my NTC3, the the 4-40 screws stripped in the first 2 months. I would pick the car up and turn it upside down and a few screws would fall off.
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Old 03-31-2004, 09:28 PM   #5925
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitrodude
I would pick the car up and turn it upside down and a few screws would fall off.
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