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Old 03-26-2004, 02:41 AM   #5866
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Default Re: Grub screws on front blade roll bar

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Originally posted by Canuck
Does anyone have a fix for those grub screws that just wont stay tight on the front blade roll bar when using the plastic version ?
The only fix I could come up with is get the Aluminium mounts. To save some cash you can get the GH sway bar kit, it comes with aluminium mounts & is $19.99 from RC Boyz, as opposed to about $30.00 for just the mounts by AE. I got the Ae ones as I only discovered the the GH version about 2 months ago, one of my mates has one & it looks almost identical.
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Old 03-26-2004, 02:46 AM   #5867
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Thank's for th etip soc123_au !

I will go with the aluminum ...

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Old 03-26-2004, 02:50 AM   #5868
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Quote:
Originally posted by Skoob
Aite thanks for the info, and so you don't reccomend doing the heat cyclign to break it in?
Check the instructions regarding your TR, dont pay attention to "mine is at 2 turns out on the top" or advice similar to that. Each engine is different & the correct setting for an OS TR will be different to a thunder tiger .15. Typicaly you should run a few tanks at the factory setting IE how it was when you took it out of the box. After about 5 tanks you can start to lean it out to get the tune you want. I have heat cycled engines & just run them rich & havent found a big difference in the end result. Check out the Paris Racing web site. There is an article by Ron Paris on engine break in. Punkynutts advice is on the money, just use your own needle settings, unless Punkynutt is running a TR as well & your climate is similar.
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Old 03-26-2004, 09:04 AM   #5869
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the os tr is very different than that. it says in the directions what the settings are since os carbs are very precise, they are ale to give very accurate settings in their booklet. better too rich, than too lean that is for sure.
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Old 03-26-2004, 12:04 PM   #5870
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This one will "replace" the RPM bumper...
2223 - Front bumper wide (replaces booth the 2232 and 2226) - 8 USD

I dont like the plastic or kydex bumpers anyway. Check the attached picture, thats an easier way. All other cars will do perfect with only a foam bumper. I just cut an extra small 1/4" thick foam and removed the rubbers and kydex part that always are braking. Try it.

Canuck: Personally I like the plastic holder better. I think most racers tighten the screws too much though. Just tighten them enough so you still can turn the rods for adjusting. No need to loose them and re-tighten. The aluminium holders you need to tighten hard though because there is no friction between them and the bars. And they are hard to reach. If you look at the earlier photo of the swaybar and used together with the plastic holders you can easily adjust the front swaybar when pitting, even with the bodyshell still on the car and engine running...

Punkynutt: the rear tyres should be like Jaco zero off-set, not +2, at least if you want the tyres to be under the body. It will be wider then 200mm with NS +2. There is no problems with the 30 mm Nitro Shoes with zero off-set (rear) - they dont rub against any suspension arms (front or rear).

Jason: I come up with it myself, just plain good old thinkin'... I'm from an generation when you couldnt buy all the option part U would need...
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Old 03-26-2004, 09:54 PM   #5871
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how many people here will be switching to the newer style rear end?
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Old 03-27-2004, 02:25 AM   #5872
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I will be switching to the new style and soon as I can get it.
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Old 03-27-2004, 03:01 AM   #5873
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Thank's for the info Niklas Edlund !

My worries with the plastic holders was that the blade bar can be turned with my fingers and was not rock solid tight !

I gather from the info you gave me and your experience that this is OK and that the blade bars do not need to be super tight ?

Also does the ball and cup of th eblade bar need to be really close together or do I push the blades all the way in the holders ?

Look forward to some more knowledege here !

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Old 03-27-2004, 03:25 AM   #5874
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If the rods "easily" could be turned with your fingers then its propobly too loose. Then they could turn during normal driving etc. But they dont need to be rock-solid... well, with the aluminium holders they almost need to be rock-solid because they turn so easily to begin with (the AE alu ones, all others I have no idea about). They way I do it, together with the "slized-ends" on the rods (see my earlier swaybar tip and pic), its easy to adjust the swaybar even during pit stops. The orginal way takes "forever" to adjust... But of course, if you like the aluminium ones - use them. U need confidence in your car.

Push the rods in all the way (the AE ones), other wise they will touch each other when the suspension bottoms out and the car could be twitchy.
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Old 03-27-2004, 03:27 AM   #5875
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Thank's Nick !
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:26 AM   #5876
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I like the AE alum swaybar better, it's the easiest to adjust, just make sure you push the blades to the outside or the bars will rub each other and make the car very twichy to drive.
With 30mm foams and 0 offset, the tracking on the car is way over 200mm so you have to use a setup board to set the width, not the tool supplied in the kit.
I'm using K factory arms and rear toe kit on my car, and so far its been good. No compression on the turnbuckles and no broken arms yet, and it has taken some good hits. The front hubs are pretty cool, they have 3 different turnbuckle locations for the steering. You guys may want to play with the stock steering hubs here, drill a hole between the orginal position and the rear turnbuckle location and move the ends and reset the toe, you'll be suprised! I think Baker and the boyz were doing this last season. I'll probably switch to the V-2 later this year, well if Ae ever ships them!!!

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Old 03-27-2004, 06:33 AM   #5877
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Hey..BB....Morning...

Any 710's running by you yet?......

Hows the tc3 holding up against the "newer" cars?...(R40,fw-05,etc)..
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:50 AM   #5878
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Hi Harry! Good morning to you! The car still holds it's own! I just get more and better HP to compensate! Have you ever tried any of Topgun 777 engine work? I had him rework some old engines for me with his new piston/sleeve/rod design, and these things are very fast! You know I use Richey, Smeltz and now 777 work, I can't really say which is best, let's just say they all have their advantages!
The R-40 is no match!! (Sorry!). Now, the 710 is a different story! Its almost enough to make a man switch cars! LOL. I'm thinking about it, maybe get one about mid season and just see. Laterz! BB
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Old 03-27-2004, 09:04 AM   #5879
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Now, the 710 is a different story! Its almost enough to make a man switch cars! LOL. I'm thinking about it, maybe get one about mid season and just see. Laterz! BB

Ouch, BB, thats not good to hear from an old time tc3 player like you. Hey harry hows it going.

Unless I cannot compete with the top dogs around here anymore , I will be using my old tc3. Just contemplating a newer engine. Still have my 2 rbs, but I am looking for some more top end. Thinking about topguns new work and also one of Dennis's when it finally comes out.
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Old 03-27-2004, 09:29 AM   #5880
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The 710 is a fast car. But... It's still a belt car!! I don't really think we'll switch over but I am thinking about getting one to play with.
For top end and straights over 200 ft, Dennis is the man!! I'm liking the MT short track engine Top gun done also! Dennis recently built me 2 sirrio's, one for short track and one for long tracks, they both seem very strong, but longivity for the sirrio seems short, (evo2). I have a Smeltz Sirrio (evo1) with over 2 gallon of 30% ran through it and it still has decent compression but connecting rod is getting bad. Need to refreshn it!
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