Niklas Edlund

Here's an easy mod on the front adjustable swaybar. Just take an Dremel and make a slot in each end and you'll be able to insert a screwdriver from the side for easy adjusting of the swaybar. Tigten down the grubscrews just enough so you still can turn the roll-bars in their holders. With the aluminium holders it works straight away but with the standard plastic ones you need to take a 3mm drill bit and remove some material where the screwdriver would go in.

Niklas Edlund

For those of U that have problems with the shocktowers coming loose and/or threads are stipping in the boxes. There is an "commersial" version from BMI racing available (www.bmiracing.com) but its very easy to make one with 99% AE parts. The RC12L3/L4 chassi standoffs #4442B are 100% the right hight as they come. Just downsize one of its end to about 4.5mm and epoxy glue (JB Quick) an 4-40 socket steel screw together with an AE #4 aluminium washer. Look at the picture. Then take a 5mm drill and open up the hole in the shocktower that originally is just there for reaching the std 4-40 screw. Use 1.25" countersunk steel screws and run them all the way from the bottom through the chassi and lower and upper gearboxes. Use the "AEfix" assembly and tighten it down from the top, use some blue locktite.

To the left in the picture are the BMI "The fix" posts.

Niklas Edlund

Almost a bullet proof solution. It solves booth the stripping of the bottom screw threads in the gearboxes and also tightens down the shockmount. Simple. Doesnt work in the rear for the new V2 suspension though...

no4hitter

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Niklas, Great posts. Have you heard anything about aluminum diff. gears for the NTC3? I guess if nobody developes one I will make myself. Season is getting close here in Ohio.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

the new durango has some sort of metal diff gears, i wonder if they are universaly compatible.....

Niklas Edlund

Havent heard anything about alu gears - these type of parts are mostly developed on your continent. Personally I wouldnt want them anyway in a ball diff... BTW, its zero deg C here and snowing every other day so no racing here in the near future.

Canuck

iTrader: (25)

Does anyone have a fix for those grub screws that just wont stay tight on the front blade roll bar when using the plastic version ?

Skoob

What hop-ups do you guys reccomend first?? (its straight from the box right now)

and what receiver battery and charger are you guys useing for your ntc3?

and for fuel, how much should i buy to start off with? haven't broken in the engine yet? should i just buy 4gallons if i can afford it? or should i buy the quart bottles?

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

a gallon of fuel goes a loooong way, so unless it is hard to get, just get a gallon. rpm bumper is first on the lsit, then just start buying tires.

Skoob

whats an rpm bumper?

somethin to boost rpm's?

i've got an os tr (p) btw..

Punkynutt

Skoob, you forgot the most important thing about your brand-new-from-the-box-ntc3........drive it first !!!

Break it in, read about tuning options, try different settings and enjoy the car first, feel how it behaves, troubleshoot, get to know the car well before you opt to change anyting. Make one change at a time (sorry bud if I'm underestimiating you, I'm ussuming you're new to Nitro or just new to RC)

Hop Ups:
1.The rpm bumper is in fact a bumper. Buy this to replace the stock bumper in the front of the car. The RPM version is better in cases where the barriers seem not to want to move out of your way.
2. Don't buy too much fuel at one time if you're only racing on weekends though. It kinda goes "off" when left standing for too long (months)
3. Get a 2-speed, decent foam tires (Jaco Nitro Shoes - typically 40 front and 35 rear). The rear ones could be 2 deg offsett to prevent it from rubbing against the suspension arms

Enjoy

Skoob

I wasn't planning on upgrading anything until i atleast start racing, which won't be for a while..I just like to look at towerhobbies and stuff and it gives me stuff to look at..

So, i was looking either buying a gallon, or 2 quarts of fuel..

will that last me through the breakin? i haven't been able to find how big the stock gas tank is anywhere....

btw, anybody know a good website (or do you know) on how to break an engine in real good? right now i'm just going to go by this http://www.wildhobbies.com/news/defa...articleid=1054 (the heat cycling one) since it seems to be the best..

Oh yea, and does it matter what kind of starter box i get? was just going to get the ae ntc3 one, unless somebody reccomends anoter one for any particular reason?

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Niklas Edlund:how is it going? I was wondering how did you come accross this great idea to use ae parts.

thanks Jason

Punkynutt

Okay, the best way to break in a Nitro motor is to follow the manfucturers instructions very precisley. The size of the stock tank on the ntc3 is 75 or 73 cc/ml. This size is the ROAR size. Much depends on the air temp, humidity and sea-level.

You'll have to experiment. Your engine should run okay at just below the boiling of water, hence the "drop-of-water-on-the-head-test" which is 100 deg cellcius. or about 220 deg F...or something like that. Typically, my NTC3 is dialed 2 1/4 High, 2 low and the idle is at default. On a very very hot day I'd richen just the high needle by 1/8 and get an ave temp of 240 d/f

Break-in will see you use about 4-6 tanks. Thats about 1/2 litre or 2 quarts......hope my metric/imperial system is "on"

Some of the other members can probably verify and correct.

The NTC3 starter box is spot on.

Skoob

Aite thanks for the info, and so you don't reccomend doing the heat cyclign to break it in?