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Old 01-26-2004, 03:12 AM   #5701
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Quote:
Originally posted by Punkynutt
Yo crashed_1

I've had a 1/5 scale truck land and stand on my car, the marshalls "remedied" the situation by obviously removing the thing, my car was still idling, and I spead away winning the race. Why was I racing a 1/5 truck, well all the other 1/10 nitro drivers were to scared to race against myself and another dude with a HPI R40

My point, this car has seen some serious race-track "accidents" and I only replaced a broken pivot cap. I live in South Africa, we pay roughly 7 times more than you guys pay around the world for our RC stuff. Replacing screws with stock instead of Alum or Titanium is far cheaper, even if I have to do it a few times.

That RB engine costs too much anyway. Tell me this though, I need some advice.

I've removed the crab restrictor from my AE.12 engine. What do I need to set the High/low screws to to compensate

Thanks
Vrrrmmm
I'm no expert in engine tuning, but removing the card venturi means more air/fuel mixture. To compensate the air going into the carb, richen the hsn...I think. Better to get a second opinion.
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Old 01-26-2004, 10:47 PM   #5702
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Thanks man, I've already set it 1/4 richer from the factory settings for both the high and low. Still waiting for a response from Associated.

Engine temp used to be around 215 F but still stays around 261. Not racing until I get an answer from them

Thanks
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Old 01-27-2004, 12:14 AM   #5703
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Quote:
Originally posted by Punkynutt
Thanks man, I've already set it 1/4 richer from the factory settings for both the high and low. Still waiting for a response from Associated.

Engine temp used to be around 215 F but still stays around 261. Not racing until I get an answer from them

Thanks
every engine is different. I think its gonna be hard for AE to tell you exactly how much to turn to compensate for the removal of the restrictor. Try reseting the needles to the factory settings and start from there. The details are in the AE .12 engine booklet. My settings without the restrictors are HSN between 2 1/2-2 3/4 and LSN somewhere 2. Best is to tune the HSN first from factory settings. Run until you see the exhaust emiting a good trail of white smoke then bring the car in and let it idle for about 10 sec, punch the throttle, if the car accel quickly then the LSN is about there, if the car hestates and lots of smoke, lean the LSN, if the engine dies off, richen the LSN. Another way to know if your LSN is rich is when after running at full throttle, car comes to a stop but the engine still idling very high then drops to the normal idle speed. Move the LSN only by 5 minutes each time.
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Old 01-27-2004, 12:39 AM   #5704
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Thanks spawn, this is exactly what I wanted to know. I realize that each engine is different, I had asked to the question only to get a guideline.

I base most of my findings on the temperature of the engine using a temp gauge and then secondly on the smoke and performance, but I use all three for a final "reading". The preferred running temp for this AE.12 is approx 220 F

Thanks
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Old 01-28-2004, 06:03 PM   #5705
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Default Motor Mounts and Flywheels combos?

Guys
Can someone give me the Cliff Notes on the differences in the heigth and diameter of Pull Start vs Non Pull Start motor mounts and flywheels.

Seems to me there is a difference in heigth and diameter, and
I seem to have the wrong combo when using a NON PS
on my AE starter box. Is it correct that the NON PS motor mounts sit lower and conversly is the fly wheel smaller?

My AE starter box wheel seems to be hitting the chassis
as the flywheel is too high in the chassis due to higher mounts?

Or do I have a freak situation?

thanks in advance
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:33 PM   #5706
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Yes there is a difference in the height of the motor mounts on a P/S and the non P/S engines. The flywheel is also a different diameter to compensate the difference in the height of the motor mounts.


So i believe that you do have the wrong combo of flywheel to motor mounts on your car if your starter box is hitting the chassis.

P/S mounts - 17.8mm high
non-P/S mounts - 13.0mm high


hope this helps, if you need more information you can go to www.towerhobbies.com
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Old 01-29-2004, 11:33 AM   #5707
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Default Can Am or Lola Body Sourcing

I've noticed a few guys running the older style Can Am type bodies.

Where do you get them and who makes them? I always loved the look of the Donahue Lola T70 type cars. How do they handle compared to the boring NASCAR looking coupes. My track is short and as long as you run a spoiler, I'm not sure the body style makes any difference.

How about Stewart and Earnhart pairing up this weekend at the Daytona Rolex 24?........I heard Newman is even running!

Thanks in Advance
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:00 PM   #5708
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Can-am & Lola bodies have a big effect on handling they provide a lot more down force. As you are in the NTC3 thread I assume thats what car you want to put it on. On my NTC3 I had to cut holes for the front shock tower to clear, it looked really hack but it handled well, in AU Frewer make theese bodys I dont know if the frewer bodies are available in the US, but your LHS should be able to get one from somewhere I have seen them on US sites to suit 200mm tourers. Check with your club & make sure they allow them as a lot of clubs dont.
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:11 PM   #5709
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I use the YOKOMO GTP body on my BMI NTC3 and just take my time getting her as slow as possible with cutting out the body. If you take your time and get it as low as possible I think it turns out very nice looking.

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Old 01-29-2004, 04:55 PM   #5710
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Default Yokomo Bodies for Can Am and GTP

I went out to the Yokomo site and found:

Part# ZE-RHB (Retail Price: $25.00)
1/10th Scale Racing Body (GTP TYPE) 200mm with protective over-spray film.

or

Part# ZE-RTB (Retail Price: $25.00)
1/10th Scale Racing Body (GTP TYPE) 200mm with protective over-spray film.

http://www.yokomousa.com/index3.htm

Looks like you need to cut out clearance for the shock towers or
use a heating/blower to soften the plastic and push the body down.

Do you have any clearance problems with the front foam bumper
on a NTC3?

Maybe I should try that Euro Truck body - it has plenty o' front bumper clearance -
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Old 01-29-2004, 05:49 PM   #5711
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My body was different to the one in the pic, it was a wedge similar to the 1/8 style. Not as nice looking as the one above. On my 1/8 the wedge bodys handle better than the closed cockpit style. So I imagine it would be the same on a tourer.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:05 PM   #5712
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What kind of pipe do your run on that washin' machine?
My wife won't let me cut out the lid for cooling
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:09 PM   #5713
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The foam front bumper needs to be cut straight across and angled. No big deal there.

I did indeed heat the lexan around the front shock tower to lower the body just a tiny bit to get it level when in full race trim. I also removed the very ends of the tower where the body posts would go, as in the rear.

As far as downforce goes, if you need more than this body offers, you need to look further at your set-up! This body provides plenty of downforce, front & rear even at lower speeds.

And I run an RD Logics pipe on the wahser... You should see what I am running on the dryer!!!!
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Old 01-29-2004, 08:56 PM   #5714
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Old 01-30-2004, 10:09 AM   #5715
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