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Old 12-31-2003, 11:51 AM   #5611
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While searching the web, i found a company that makes a rear body mount that will allow you to put the air hole in rear window in line with the front. If anyone knows the company pleasssse let me know.
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Old 12-31-2003, 03:05 PM   #5612
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The steel diiff gears from RD would not surprise me! Dennis probably has his hands in that if its true Dennis and I talked soem about the bad gears in the begining and how to fix it. he was working with some bronse or brass gears maybe, I thought. But.. cost would be up there! I haven't had any pinion gear problems since the whit gears came out. and I stripped and melted a shit load of of gears in the 2 years before they came out.
Ive went to a brass sealed thrust brg ( 1 piece), and shimmed the flywheel out and put .003 endplay and I have seen major improvements!
Someone here stated shimming the back clutch brg, instead of the front like K says too. I do not understand the theory behind this because its the same effect.
But... by shimming back side of flywheel I was able to get better endplay with less shims in the front, and the clutch actually works where the factory said to set the spring tension. Before when set to factory spec, I had to loosen the adjusting nut about 1/2 to 3/4 turn to even get it to engage. Now its perfect! and it has at least 3 times the runs on it, it usually takes to eat the brg. So who knows! I 'll try it when the season starts here again if its does'nt work I too will go to back up 3 shoe K clutch which I like very well. What stiffer springs did you go to serpent?
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Old 12-31-2003, 05:55 PM   #5613
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Default Centax Style Shimming

Hey Guys,

I don't use a centax style clutch on the NTC3 as i have found the std 3 shoe clutch works pretty good with stiffer springs and lightned shoes.

However getting to the point, having run Kyosho for a while this is how we shimmed the clutch, this clutch is the same as the centax style you guys seem to be using.

1. Put the clutch together and set the preload on spring and note the measurement from the clutch nut to the adjustment nut.

2. Put the clutch bell on with the bearings etc and then screw the thrust assy in. Then set the end play, generally speaking .3 to .4 gap.

3. Then take the thrust assy out and keep the shimming arangment together. Then take the clutch bell off and shim the clutch bell out so that it doesnt rub on the shoe. Then usually i put a .2 shim in on top of this just to take the slop out.

4. Lube the thrust bearing, put it all back together and its ready to go.

Doing it this way the the clutch bell doesn't rub on the shoe at idle, but more importantly its a nice consistent engagement.

Hope this helps

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Old 12-31-2003, 08:58 PM   #5614
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Someone here stated shimming the back clutch brg, instead of the front like K says too. I do not understand the theory behind this because its the same effect.
I think you got it confused where I meant the shims need to be placed. I think you're referring to putting shims just in between the engine front bearing and the brass collet... Which I'm not...

I know that putting shims behind in between the front engine bearing and the brass collet is the same as putting shims in front of the engine where the thrust bearing is. Just that the latter is easier to do without taking off the flywheel !

Anyway, for a clearer pic, you can download the Serpent 710 manual here (the last one which is 2 MB with file name 710manualSAMPLE.pdf). Specifically, step 8.7 on page 28 which describes this procedure.

Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
What stiffer springs did you go to serpent?
If you want very hard Centax springs, you can go with the Mugen silver ones. The Serpent one is reasonably hard though.
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Old 12-31-2003, 09:00 PM   #5615
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Default Re: Centax Style Shimming

Quote:
Originally posted by Kyle Hazell
3. Then take the thrust assy out and keep the shimming arangment together. Then take the clutch bell off and shim the clutch bell out so that it doesnt rub on the shoe. Then usually i put a .2 shim in on top of this just to take the slop out.
Yup, this is what I meant when I said you need to put shims in between the Centax spring nut and the normal bearing until there is no more or very little play.

There are two folds when doing this. One is to make the clutchbell spin freely without rubbing with the clutchshoes. Secondly, you take it further by putting slightly more shims (if required) to take out most of the play. Your thrust bearing will last longer.
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Old 01-01-2004, 06:18 AM   #5616
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think you got it confused where I meant the shims need to be placed. I think you're referring to putting shims just in between the engine front bearing and the brass collet... Which I'm not...
You should only put a shim bet. the front bearing and flywheel when the flywheel is touching and scraping the enigne housing and front bearing. If it doesnt then there is no need. I put a shim in between coz the flyweel was grazing the engine housing.
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Old 01-01-2004, 06:27 AM   #5617
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Quote:
Originally posted by spawn
You should only put a shim bet. the front bearing and flywheel when the flywheel is touching and scraping the enigne housing and front bearing. If it doesnt then there is no need. I put a shim in between coz the flyweel was grazing the engine housing.
If you do not put a shim behind the flywheel, you will need to put a lot of shims in the front where the thrust bearing is. It's OK though but the engine flywheel may be slightly off and nearer towards the engine.

As for the shims, they need to be the correct size to avoid rubbing against the front bearing shields. Also, do not use the thin 0.1 mm shims. Use the thick 0.5 mm ones.
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Old 01-01-2004, 05:05 PM   #5618
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Formula1fan,
One of my friends picked up a set of these rear body mounts last year while racing in Ohio. I'll try to find the company for you.
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Old 01-01-2004, 06:32 PM   #5619
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Hey TOEBSTER2 thank you very much. It is driving me crazy trying to find them again.
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Old 01-01-2004, 07:01 PM   #5620
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I made mine and some for my buddies, but here is the link to the hobbyshop in cincinnati that has them. Good luck finding them on their site. It might be better to call them.

http://www.rccaronline.com/
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Old 01-02-2004, 08:53 AM   #5621
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Default universals

what universals are you guys using in your ntc3's to replace the crappy blue aluminum ones that come with it? anyone tried the gpm steel ones or the titanium ones?
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:17 PM   #5622
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Default ntc3 aluminium body mts

they are on their site under ultra specials, produced by a local machine shop
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Old 01-02-2004, 07:33 PM   #5623
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Default bbntc3 - Clutch Springs

Currently using the Mugen 1.1s with the K Factory 3 shoe. The shoes have been modified with two drilled 1/8 holes in each shoe and a little material shaved from the front. I am eagerly awaiting good weather to try out the aluminum clutch shoes I recently purchased from CrazyNut racing. At any rate, the three shoe setup I have now works well.
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Old 01-03-2004, 05:45 AM   #5624
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Johnsoa: The Alum shoes are OK but just like they were with 1/8th scale. They heat up, cook the flywheel and clutchbell. I did not like them, they engaged good but?
Thanks for the info! BB
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Old 01-03-2004, 05:47 AM   #5625
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Default Re: universals

Quote:
Originally posted by tallyrc
what universals are you guys using in your ntc3's to replace the crappy blue aluminum ones that come with it? anyone tried the gpm steel ones or the titanium ones?
dont waste your money on this one. Stick to MIP, get the shiny bones.
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