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Old 12-05-2003, 02:40 PM   #5536
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Hey people any newbies or you regulars interested in "THE FIX" and "THE NUTS", I have a few extra sets I like to get rid of.
I'll sell them in a kit deal 2 Fixes and 1 set of jam nuts. This is enough to do 1 car. $25.00 shipped USPS. Email me.
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Old 12-07-2003, 04:19 PM   #5537
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Originally posted by Boomer
They do for me. I'm RPM'd all the way 'round.

how were you able to fit RPM ball cups to the steering rack, i tried it before, it doesn't fit... too thick, hits the rack.
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Old 12-07-2003, 06:37 PM   #5538
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
how were you able to fit RPM ball cups to the steering rack, i tried it before, it doesn't fit... too thick, hits the rack.
I believe you need to shave off the sides of the RPM cups to make it slide in and out of the steering rack nicely.
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Old 12-07-2003, 07:09 PM   #5539
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I believe you need to shave off the sides of the RPM cups to make it slide in and out of the steering rack nicely.
both sides? could any1 post any pics so that i may know how to do it properly? it would be highly appreciated...

thanks.
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Old 12-07-2003, 08:28 PM   #5540
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Yes you have to shave them, they work good. But... buy Lunsford Ti Ball ends and Team magic make a very Ball cup that works great with them. It's a snug fit at first but after a few races its fine. 0 steering slop, and I use the K-Factory steering rack. Looks much better too, than those big bulky RPM ends.
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:08 AM   #5541
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
how were you able to fit RPM ball cups to the steering rack, i tried it before, it doesn't fit... too thick, hits the rack.
That's only the one at the steering servo - where it connects to the servo horn. All the others seemed to work fine.

I don't have to deal with that anymore, so . . .
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:33 AM   #5542
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
how were you able to fit RPM ball cups to the steering rack, i tried it before, it doesn't fit... too thick, hits the rack.
RPM cups are great but they do not solve the problem, it will still get loose fast enough. I find that the standard cups will do their job but you need to change them a little earlier than RPM. Remember that you need to work more with the RPM cups to get them running well, not really worth the effort in my opinion.
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:34 AM   #5543
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
That's only the one at the steering servo - where it connects to the servo horn. All the others seemed to work fine.

I don't have to deal with that anymore, so . . .
That's why he has to shave the cups, hence, it is not worth the trouble.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:03 AM   #5544
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That's only one out of six.

I think I shaved the edge that wanted to contact the servo on that single ball-cup and I was fine the rest of the way.

Messing with one out of six seems pretty decent to me. . . and I've found RPM cups to be far and away the best cups around. I've only changed mine once in over two years. . .
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Old 12-08-2003, 02:12 PM   #5545
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I agree Boomer, I orginally built my car with RPM cups, change them in the off season. Lasted very good. Found the Team Magic ends and tried them, never have had one come off yet and steering is very tight, no slop. Seems to me though, I had to cut some off the length of the RPMS?? But... maybe I was using a longer Lunsford turnbuckle.
Has anybody ever came up with a alum arm for the steering servo that would work?? I tried just about every alum arm made and nothing would work. I always stripped the AE arms, (yea I know stay off the boards!) LOL. Ae has a weird offset there for clearance. But now with the BMI I don't have to worry about it.

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Old 12-09-2003, 04:10 PM   #5546
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Has anybody ever came up with a alum arm for the steering servo that would work?? I tried just about every alum arm made and nothing would work. I always stripped the AE arms, (yea I know stay off the boards!) LOL. Ae has a weird offset there for clearance. But now with the BMI I don't have to worry about it.

With the BMI chassis I use a Kimborough servo saver (small) & lock down the standard servo saver. It seems to work really well & the tension is more consistant then the standard set up. I use one of the diff springs on the stock saver to lock it down.

Have you guys got a part# for the team magic cups & the lunsford balls, I use the RPM cups at the moment & I dont like them that much they seem too long & bulky.
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Old 12-09-2003, 08:32 PM   #5547
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I'm sorry it's not Lunsford Ball joints, it's MIP part #"S are 1073 and 1074, short and long. Team magic and Racers Edge ball cups are the same, These 2 companys and K-Factory are the same I believe, Just listed under diff name. The part #s for the Ball joints are RCE10350 .. They come with cheap ball joints, throw the ball joints away and use the ball sockets on the MIP ball joints. Snug fit but works well after a few runs.
You can get this stuff here:
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...MIP&man=M.I.P.
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=Racers%20Edge
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:51 PM   #5548
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OK guys, for those of you who hate or won't buy K-Factory parts from japan or Trinity, heres and addy to a good friend who can hook you up much cheaper than anyone. [email protected] . Be sure and tell him BBNTC3 hooked you up!
Guys looking for the harden 3 shoe clutch and flywheel deal he may help you or he at least has them coming across the wide waters.
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Old 12-11-2003, 11:03 AM   #5549
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Default slipping diff

hey all how's it going? I was wondering what is the best way to fix a slipping diff? I am having a problem w/ my Ntc3. It seems that when I give my car gas, something is slipping. The car will accelerate once and a while. I have checked the clutch, it seems ok now. Since I had a problem in the past with the stocl clutch shoes wearing into the flywheel. So I then switched to the 3 -shoe(also put in a new clutch bell) setup by Associated. However this did not solve the problem. From all this trial and error I have come to the conclusion that its not the clutch, it must be the diffs, I noticed that rear diff gear and pinion gears were worn out and melted. So I went to my LHS, to see if I could replace my diff and pinion gears. they had the pinion gears but not the diff gear. they did have the Differential Gear/ Pinion Gear for TC3 pt# 3914. But the diff gear is diff from the ntc3.

what do you all think that I should do?

thanks Jason
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Old 12-11-2003, 01:42 PM   #5550
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Change the 2speed oneway brg. (newhub) That will fix it.
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