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Old 12-02-2003, 12:28 AM   #5521
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, modifying the AT PSU is a good idea. Cheap too.
i found an article on how to do this here:
http://www.marcee.org/Articles/PCPowerSupply.htm

basically, if i can find an old style AT PSU its' easy. however i heard that most of those are only 4amp max on the 12v. and modifying the newer style AT PSU's are very involved. they require soldering resistors and such to the 5v to put a "load" on there to make 12v rail put out all 12v. is this right??
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Old 12-03-2003, 11:01 AM   #5522
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Originally posted by bbntc3
I like that! BMI Chassis was built from ideas from racers from all over who see and know what the car needs. It was'nt just drawed up on a piece of paper a punched out. There was alot of research and driving time with this chassis.

what are the changes or improvements made by BMI to the NTC3 chassis?
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Old 12-03-2003, 03:00 PM   #5523
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First - it's a one piece chassis. No upper brace is needed. The chassis is stiff and exceptionally solid.

Second - because of its rigidity, it actually aligns the rest of the car. It's pretty amazing that when you put the braces on that connect the trans cases to the rest of the chassis (and the four screws from the underside) it's advised to start all of them and then tighten them in a kinda rotation. The chassis and braces actually force the trans cases (and thus the suspension, etc.) into proper alignment. I was amazed.

Third - because of how solid it is, hitting things does not impact the setup as much as before. Of course, if you break something, you still break something ( ) but the car does not tweak like it did with the stock chassis. Settings remain the same. I don't have to tweak the chassis, check toe/camber/etc. after every race no matter whether I hit something or not; the car is pretty much solidly the way I set it before the race leaving me to make ADJUSTMENTS, not corrections.

Fourth - the stock steering always felt somewhat bindy. The BMI chassis changes the servo from laying flat to pointing down. This allows the servo arm to move the same way as the rack moves eliminating bind. It also eliminates the lack of clearance through the upper deck.

Fifth - the absolute positive connections all the way around. There are no more plastic servo mounts - they're aluminum and SOLID. There are no more zip ties for the receiver pack - it's in a dedicated pack mount (although I added some foam to make it really REALLY snug. . . )

Sixth - although I didn't have any problems with the stock tank, I DID notice that the amount of foaming was noticeably reduced.

Seventh - never discount the beauty of a big chunk of machined aircraft (6061) aluminum. It is a work of art - I actually had it in my office for a couple of days just admiring it, before I put it in the car. . .

Okay - things I would have liked - there is no handle. Yeah, it's niggly, but it's still something I would have liked to keep. . . I can't think of anything else. . .really.

The weight is exceptionally close to what the stock chassis, upper deck, uprights, etc. weigh, so that's not a problem.

Just my opinion on the chassis. (and no, I don't get a commission nor am I sponsored although I wouldn't mind. . . heh heh)
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Old 12-03-2003, 05:15 PM   #5524
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I just got an NTC3, I haven't run it yet, but what parts break easily? (so I can take care of the problem sooner)
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Old 12-03-2003, 05:41 PM   #5525
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Aside from the normal things - shock towers, pivot ball carriers and arms (normal breaks on any car. . .) I would keep a set of trans cases around - if you take or make a hit that breaks anything, the force will get transferred to the trans cases and they will break too, but you may not notice it. . .

I would pick up "TheFixx" from BMI. They reinforce the link between the shocktower, trans cases and the chassis. They save your trans cases, pretty much stopping the damage at the tower. They're pretty cheap too - something like $10/pair or something. Cheap insurance.

Also - make sure you replace the standard steel rear links with titanium otherwise the first rear-nerf you take will bend one and you'll have a FUN drive. . . (done it. . .was interesting. . .heh heh)

Otherwise, I think it's basically a fundamentally solid car. Arms, Towers, Carriers. . .normal parts. At least you don't have to carry any extra belts!
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Old 12-03-2003, 07:20 PM   #5526
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BOOMER:

thanks dude... very enlightening... makes me want to get one this very minute... i changed my chassis to a hardcore titanium 1.

another question... the chassis looks like the 1 that was being offered by jim reeves before, the makers of the fix... any connection to BMI?
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Old 12-03-2003, 08:48 PM   #5527
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well i think i'm going with the 969. being able to charge two of my micro packs at once is REAL appealing. and it doesnt' have the false peaking problem that plauged the 959.
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Old 12-03-2003, 08:48 PM   #5528
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well i think i'm going with the 969. being able to charge two of my micro packs at once is REAL appealing. and it doesnt' have the false peaking problem that plauged the 959.
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Old 12-04-2003, 02:50 PM   #5529
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BMI BABY!!!!

I also get no commissions
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Old 12-05-2003, 09:28 AM   #5530
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
BOOMER:

thanks dude... very enlightening... makes me want to get one this very minute... i changed my chassis to a hardcore titanium 1.

another question... the chassis looks like the 1 that was being offered by jim reeves before, the makers of the fix... any connection to BMI?
Yep, pretty big connection since it's the same people. . .
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Old 12-05-2003, 12:12 PM   #5531
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Yep, pretty big connection since it's the same people. . .

cool! so is jim reeves still the man to talk to?
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Old 12-05-2003, 12:36 PM   #5532
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I think you can just go to www.bmiracing.com

click on products and you can get everything. . .TheFix is on the second page of products. . .
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Old 12-05-2003, 01:16 PM   #5533
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Default Steering Rack - Sloppy Steering

Hey guys, have used the K factory steering rack but still seem to be getting a lot of slop in the steering via the std associated ball cups. Do the RPM heavy duty ball cups fix this problem.


Thanks

Kyle
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Old 12-05-2003, 01:52 PM   #5534
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They do for me. I'm RPM'd all the way 'round.
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Old 12-05-2003, 02:04 PM   #5535
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Default steering

Thanks for that.

Kyle
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