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Old 11-25-2003, 04:41 AM   #5506
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I have'nt found the need for a 7 tooth split, we mostly race on short tracks. My car with Smeltz and Richey mods ripps pinions out with 6 tooth split or more.
Thanks for the info though, I'll pass it on.
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Old 11-25-2003, 10:27 PM   #5507
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
I use the Mugen thrust bearings for my KFacCentax and they work well.
As with the 705's (the 835 or even the 950) Centax II thrust bearing (5 x 10 x 4) will fit correct.
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Old 11-26-2003, 08:15 AM   #5508
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
As with the 705's (the 835 or even the 950) Centax II thrust bearing (5 x 10 x 4) will fit correct.
Hmmm...can someone direct this nice fellow to the Serpent(Darkside) Forum? Btw, where's the 710?
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:49 PM   #5509
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anyone has any experience on removing the front bearing of the AE RTR engine, I bought 1 second hand and the front bearing seems a bit gritty, how do I remove it as I tried the heat treatment and it still not moving. Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:42 PM   #5510
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I need suggestions.
I am currently running on a concrete track with rubber tyres.The problem i have is getting enough steering. I have tried all types of set-ups but the problem i have is can't get enough on power steering. Initial turn is not too bad but it pushes badly under power. as i said i have tried all the usaul springs droop shocks caster settings but whilst there were differences it wasn't great. i can go and reduce back tyre grip which will give me more steering but then it becomes too loose. I have thought about running a solid diff in the front. I know this will loose some initial turn but will it increase on power steering. I have thought about running a one way but i don't believe it would work as the track is quite tight with a alot of heavy braking. Any suggestions please...
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:39 PM   #5511
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Running the front solid axle will give you a nice on power steering but I believe like the front one way, the bevel gears in the diffs will not be forgiving when you run a solid front.

Anyway, you can try these things one at a time...

Add rear sway bar
Less rear toe in
More caster with tighter rear diff

These will increase on power steering.
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:00 PM   #5512
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I'd highly recommend the front one-way. Try to adjust your brakes so that you don't lock them up. We run on tight tracks all the time and the one-way is the hot set-up here for great turn-in and great corner exit accelleration and steering. All the fast guys run drag brake and it works wonders... Just my 2 cents...
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:13 PM   #5513
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I'd work with spring rate and oill ride and droop . Ever try moving the caster clips, this will help a push some. I prefer the solid front diff for short tracks beause you have better braking, but like stated, pinions are not so forgiving!.
We talked about thrust brg failures in the centax clutch a while back, and you guys had a few diff brg sollutions that work for you. Heres another thrust brg that seems to hold up well, it's made by Team SNP racing, it's a sealed brass or bronse thrust brg, it seems to work and last much better than the K factory brgs.
You can get theses brgs. off ebay, or write [email protected] for about $8.
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:27 PM   #5514
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
I'd work with spring rate and oill ride and droop.
Yup, forgot to mention that. That's a good one. A stiffer rear shocks will give good on power steering at the expense of some rear traction...

Anyway, I thought it would be good for attempt for him to try those simple suggestions first that requires nothing more than external adjustments before trying something more complicated and messy like changing springs and shock oil. It's more difficult and time consuming if you need to revert back to the old settings if they do not work. Like the suggestions I mentioned, if he did not like it, he could switch back to his original setting and start to try out different things.

Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
We talked about thrust brg failures in the centax clutch a while back, and you guys had a few diff brg sollutions that work for you. Heres another thrust brg that seems to hold up well, it's made by Team SNP racing, it's a sealed brass or bronse thrust brg, it seems to work and last much better than the K factory brgs.
You can get theses brgs. off ebay, or write [email protected] for about $8.
Cool. I think you can these Centax thrust bearings them on the Mugen and the Serpent too as they are the same size.

Anyway, just to add... All those thrust bearings that come with the kit are of the same quality. In fact I think only very few manufacturers OEM them. In all my dealings with thrust bearings on the Centax, I never (touch wood) have any failed. I still have the "older" 4 mm Centax I thrust bearing on my Impulse PRO after running it close to 2 years. Even the normal bearings in the clutch fail faster than the thrust bearing. Some may disagree but the trick to a long lasting thrust bearing is lubing it and more importantly, take out almost all the play in the clutchbell in the axial direction after the Centax is installed by putting shims in between the bearing and the spring tension nut.
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:23 PM   #5515
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Only time I have push troubles on and off trhottle is when I use 35mm rear foams. I use 30mm foams front and rear all the time.
I just thought I'd add the springs deal if all mentioned failed.
Your lucky with the thrust brgs. But.. I also have a neo saber 1/8 car, ( serpent clone) and never have had a thrust brg failure. I agree with alot of maintance on the brg, greasing and little to no endplay . After using the centax theres nothing else like them, you can keep 2 and 3 shoe clutchs,on short or long tracks to me.
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:30 PM   #5516
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sup guys. kinda off topic. but i'm looking for a good charger in the $100-150 price range. it needs to be able to charge my rx pack, gel cell, and my 6 cell micro packs. i'm looking at the mrc 969 (NOT 959) and the great planes triton. if i get a DC only charger i plan on modifying a AT PSU for power. what do you guys think? any other suggestions? thanks
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:36 PM   #5517
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also look at the FMA SuperNova. There are tritons and supernovas on ebay right now for right around 115. I would get either of those before the 969.

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Old 12-01-2003, 09:51 PM   #5518
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
After using the centax theres nothing else like them, you can keep 2 and 3 shoe clutchs,on short or long tracks to me.
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:53 PM   #5519
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Quote:
Originally posted by torchedlh
if i get a DC only charger i plan on modifying a AT PSU for power. what do you guys think? any other suggestions? thanks
Yes, modifying the AT PSU is a good idea. Cheap too.
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Old 12-01-2003, 10:34 PM   #5520
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swen
also look at the FMA SuperNova. There are tritons and supernovas on ebay right now for right around 115. I would get either of those before the 969.

Jon
ok, i found a supernova on ebay. where can i found more info about it?? reviews?

the only thing that keeps me considering the 969 is the fact that it can charge on two different channels, albeit at 5 amp total, it's plenty for my 4 micro packs.

Last edited by torchedlh; 12-01-2003 at 10:41 PM.
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