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Old 11-12-2003, 10:23 PM   #5446
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Quote:
Originally posted by tcmerf
I was actually told the rtr was easier to tune! Oh well hopefully I can bum some help the next time I am out. Otherwise I reallly like the car. So what enigine is the easiest to get up and running for a newbie?
get the kit and choose your own engine. i started with the rtr and i ended up buying a lot of stuffs(engine, pipe, radio, hi torque servos, threaded shocks, etc...) equivalent to another kit. believe me you will save a lot of money, don't be in a hurry ask your friends, ask this thread so that you will buy the good ones.
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:44 PM   #5447
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Quote:
Originally posted by tcmerf
I was actually told the rtr was easier to tune! Oh well hopefully I can bum some help the next time I am out. Otherwise I reallly like the car. So what enigine is the easiest to get up and running for a newbie?
The RTR engine is not hard to tune but being RTR you lack any real power, not that it is not powerful.

Do not bother with RTR kits unless you want to be strictly a car park basher and you are not bothered about being competitive.

RTR problems start when you itch to be faster, what thefuzzclub says is true. I seen many like him, you end up spendng more for no good reason. Also the Jaguar controller sukz big time, its worse than an Airtronics Blazer.

Save a little more and get the pro kit, you will save more money in the long run and will drive much better. Pro kit will give much more satisfaction. My 1st car was a pro NTC3 kit. Enjoyed every moment of it.
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:45 PM   #5448
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Originally posted by NitroNutt
hey Los1Fan,or anyone else who knows what do u treat foam tires with ? for better traction thx in advance
i don't usually use and tire treatments on mmy foams but some racers here use paragon and it really works well for them...if u setup ur chassis properly and put the right tires...u wont need the treatment...
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:53 AM   #5449
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
The RTR engine is not hard to tune but being RTR you lack any real power, not that it is not powerful.

Do not bother with RTR kits unless you want to be strictly a car park basher and you are not bothered about being competitive.

RTR problems start when you itch to be faster, what thefuzzclub says is true. I seen many like him, you end up spendng more for no good reason. Also the Jaguar controller sukz big time, its worse than an Airtronics Blazer.

Save a little more and get the pro kit, you will save more money in the long run and will drive much better. Pro kit will give much more satisfaction. My 1st car was a pro NTC3 kit. Enjoyed every moment of it.
Reminiscing the past eh tianci..
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Old 11-13-2003, 05:14 PM   #5450
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Quote:
Originally posted by Los1Fan
i don't usually use and tire treatments on mmy foams but some racers here use paragon and it really works well for them...if u setup ur chassis properly and put the right tires...u wont need the treatment...
thx for the reply my friend
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Old 11-13-2003, 05:21 PM   #5451
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Like he says, the right tire on a well set-up chassis and the match up is magic.
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Old 11-13-2003, 10:22 PM   #5452
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Bubbles - if you want, get my AIM info from ErikR at SoCal and I'll talk with you on AIM all you want. . .
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Old 11-14-2003, 12:12 AM   #5453
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroNutt
thx for the reply my friend
no prob....good luck racing and enjoy



question...hey guys...anyone know where i can get a chassis for my ntc3 made by 3racing that is cheap...besides ebay...my stock chassis is getting worn out every race..our tracks here are bumpy so i cant help it...anyways...any web sites will do...and one that accepts credit cards....i saw one at ebay for $35....but i can't use my paypal account anymore (maxed out) and i dun want money orders..takes too long...

does anyone ever experience of ntc3 chassis flexing??
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Old 11-14-2003, 01:01 AM   #5454
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Los1Fan
I can get you the Golden Horizon (GH)
chassis.
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Old 11-14-2003, 09:21 AM   #5455
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Quote:
Originally posted by Los1Fan
no prob....good luck racing and enjoy



question...hey guys...anyone know where i can get a chassis for my ntc3 made by 3racing that is cheap...besides ebay...my stock chassis is getting worn out every race..our tracks here are bumpy so i cant help it...anyways...any web sites will do...and one that accepts credit cards....i saw one at ebay for $35....but i can't use my paypal account anymore (maxed out) and i dun want money orders..takes too long...

does anyone ever experience of ntc3 chassis flexing??
Of course the NTC3 chassis will flex if there is a shunt, its only a 2.6 mm chasis that has its strenght from the folds. Mine did ... I changed to the GPM 4 mm chassis ... a lot less after that.

Word of caution on GPM and 3racing bits ... do not buy the bits that will take high wear and tear e.g. CVD, pillow balls etc. The so called titanium is bull ... I bought the GPM CVD (titanium) and they wore out fast! Now I know why they were cheap!!!
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Old 11-14-2003, 03:51 PM   #5456
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Default One-way lube

Anybody know where I could get some one-way lube, or what the name of it is? Who makes it? Thanks
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Old 11-14-2003, 04:22 PM   #5457
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Anybody know where I could get some one-way lube, or what the name of it is? Who makes it? Thanks


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Old 11-14-2003, 04:34 PM   #5458
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Bubbles,

A: with your mad l33t skilz you're gonna be out of novice quickly - and then the 15 is not going to be legal except for outlaw and it's WAY outclassed for that.

B: purchasing the RTR and then the 2-speed, shocks, etc. that come with the kit will make this one very expensive car.

Since I pretty much figure you already have servos, I know you have a controller, then those won't help you out (they're all stock anyway and suck).

So - get the kit, get a good motor, get the blade front-sway-bar and the rear sway-bar, get "TheFix" from BMIracing.com (you can email him and pay through paypal) and replace all the tie-rods with Lunsfords. (You don't actually need to do anything but the kit and the sway bars, but TheFix and the Lunsfords will make the thing pretty much bombproof - Boomerproof anyway. . . )

Where you planning to run it?
I plan to race at Rev...(I hope...). So I should get just the Team kit, and go from there. As for servo's, I need torque for throtle, and speed for steering, right? So sway-bars, should I get a one-way?
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Old 11-14-2003, 05:49 PM   #5459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bubblestc3
I plan to race at Rev...(I hope...). So I should get just the Team kit, and go from there. As for servo's, I need torque for throtle, and speed for steering, right? So sway-bars, should I get a one-way?
Rev = COOL.

Get the team kit
Servos, get a mid range servo. You don't really need much torque (you're not pulling a lot, brakes don't take a lot and throttle doesn't take anything) but you want a DECENT speed. . .don't need tons of either, but decent in both.

You want good torque for steering - your car will want to go straight and it weighs a lot, your servo will be fighting this tendency. You want very good speed.

Swaybars are a must - Rev is a HIGH speed track and swaybars make a LOT of difference.

I've trophied there a couple of times, always qualified in A-main when I've run there and I've never put a one-way in. I can see how it could speed me up (it's very open and "swoopy", just the ticket for a one-way) but I've done very well without it.

I would also get TheFix - it's high speed and any big taps will tend to break things - TheFix just makes things more solid.
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Old 11-14-2003, 06:10 PM   #5460
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Has anyone ever run when the track surface is wet, what tyre works best on a wet surface??

For a throttle servo, I use the standard futaba servo. It doesn't have much on speed but its quick enough at 6.0v and it has enough torque to lock up the tyres if you have your enpoint maxed out. For steering a Hitec 945 or 925, the 925 is the faster of the two with a speed of .08 [email protected], and more than enough torque you need for the NTC3. One-ways are fairly difficult to drive when you first put it in your car, because of the lack of front brakes the car can be fairly unsettled coming into the corner. Get comfortable with the car with the ball-diff before you try a
one-way diff.
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