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Old 11-03-2003, 10:26 AM   #5416
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I haven't raced at the Pine since Raytona last year. And I don't listen to those jokers who have anything to say bad about the NTC3. I have one myself. I will always be loyal to Associated. (well except for my HPI micro) But if Associated decided to make a MTC3. (M standing for Mini) I'd be the first one in line to buy one. And as for the GT I'm still interested but I'm short on funds right now. Like you I'm also looking for a 12th scale to run this winter.
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Old 11-03-2003, 10:58 AM   #5417
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lol ,, yeah ,, those guys are crazy

its funny ,, they said the eric jones said that baker used a belt car at his last big race ,, and i talked to eric , and he told me that he said nothing of he kind , ---funny how they make thngs up , lol

i see it as,, htey see how good ill be eventually, and want to get me on a subpar car , to hold me back

hey you interested in getting a team for raytona , i can talk to orlando torres, he drives a ntc3 too,, id love to see a full ntc3 team beat trinty, even though i am not too good at driving ,, getting better though /

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Old 11-03-2003, 11:45 AM   #5418
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I would love to get in Raytona again. But remember that Ray makes Raytona a "Invitational" event only. And he only invites 7 teams. I think I have a better setup on my NTC3 this year than last year and my driving has improved a 1000% over what I was doing last year. I just need to get to the Pine to run the car to see what it does and get some practice in. If you can get a "invite" from Ray I'm up to run. Shoot me a PM here or over at 6fttiger.

P.S. Sorry to everybody for the thread crapping.
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Old 11-03-2003, 06:17 PM   #5419
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Spawn, you do realize that if you space the TOP of the arm, you'll leave the BOTTOM longer, making it weaker and making the car wider than 200mm and, thus, not legal for any sanctioned races? In any country?

The tool that AE provided is designed to set the bottom of the car at 200mm, then, since you use negative camber, the top of the wheels are at less than 200mm.
yup, use the spacer on the top and adjust the camber using the bottom pillow balls. In this case you will have a track width of about 197mm. If you look at your upper arm properly, the upper arm is shorter than the lower arm so if you space the upper arm, the pillow ball will thread in deeper at the bottom.
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Old 11-03-2003, 06:19 PM   #5420
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
Spawn is from Aus ... they do things a little upside down there! Hahahahaaa ...
geee, how did you figure that out!. I will start calling you my mate from now on!!....
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Old 11-04-2003, 12:14 PM   #5421
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Quote:
Originally posted by spawn
yup, use the spacer on the top and adjust the camber using the bottom pillow balls. In this case you will have a track width of about 197mm. If you look at your upper arm properly, the upper arm is shorter than the lower arm so if you space the upper arm, the pillow ball will thread in deeper at the bottom.
That is strange. On my car, the gap at the top is less than the gap on the bottom.

If I were to space the top, then the bottom, then the track would be MORE than 200mm.
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Old 11-04-2003, 12:21 PM   #5422
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After going back to check the hub carriers, the gap on top should be slightly longer than the bottom if you use the tool given by associated. Unless you absolutely use a tremendous amount of negative camber. Even if you screwed the bottom pivot balls all the way down to the last thread, the top gap is still larger than the bottom with a negative 1 camber. Sorry for the misinformation earlier.

Last edited by sook; 11-04-2003 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 11-04-2003, 02:58 PM   #5423
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
That is strange. On my car, the gap at the top is less than the gap on the bottom.

If I were to space the top, then the bottom, then the track would be MORE than 200mm.
mine is the opposite...i checked it at the race day and there's more gap on the upper than lower..i didn't really measure the track width
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Old 11-04-2003, 03:29 PM   #5424
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boomer you may be using the outside rollcenter/camber link on the car, the upper arms hinge pin on yours may be going through
the outer most holes on the shock tower most likely, unless you are using the wrong upper arms which i highly doubt
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Old 11-04-2003, 05:30 PM   #5425
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Default Re-building shocks

hey guys...i was planning on re-building my shocks...the first time i did it i get tons of bubbles inside so my car is a little in-consistent on the track...what's the proper way of building the shocks..i have the blue threaded shocks that came with my kit...
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:27 PM   #5426
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Default Re: Re-building shocks

Quote:
Originally posted by Los1Fan
hey guys...i was planning on re-building my shocks...the first time i did it i get tons of bubbles inside so my car is a little in-consistent on the track...what's the proper way of building the shocks..i have the blue threaded shocks that came with my kit...
Just follow the instructions in the manual and you wont go wrong.

If you are rebuilding the shocks, just remember to oil the o-rings, oil the foam compensator, stuff them in!. When filling the shocks with oil, remember to move the piston vertically a couple of times until the oil has seep into the area below the piston. Then move the piston to the top, put a bit more oil and fill half the shock caps with oil, then quickly close the shocks. That test the shocks by pushing the shock shaft in and out a couple of times, and push in in all the way the shock shaft should extend to the max slowly. If you cant push it all the way in, you will need to release some oil, if it does not extend all the way, not enough oil or worn out o-rings or compensator.
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:32 PM   #5427
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
boomer you may be using the outside rollcenter/camber link on the car, the upper arms hinge pin on yours may be going through
the outer most holes on the shock tower most likely, unless you are using the wrong upper arms which i highly doubt
Yeah, you could be right on this. I tried the upper hole and I found that the camber change angle is insufficient, I get conning on the outside of the tires.
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Old 11-06-2003, 01:12 AM   #5428
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Default k factory hubs

have you all seen this?K factory hubs

thanks J.
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Old 11-08-2003, 10:55 AM   #5429
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Default Re: k factory hubs

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
have you all seen this?K factory hubs

thanks J.
Heard about them but haven't seen them yet.
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Old 11-09-2003, 04:38 PM   #5430
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I getting some foam tires for my ntc3 and I was wondering if anyone could give me some suggestions. I'm currently running on a black top surface that is very smooth and pretty clean (not running on a prepared track right now) it is older black top though so it is a little rougher than new asphalt (not bumpier, just grayer in color and a little bit granier). Im thinking of getting Jaco nitro shoes 26mm 40 shore fronts and 30mm 40 shore rears (do I need the ones with a 2 deg offset?). I know people usually run rubbers on unprepared surfaces, but I tried a set of foams that were meant for electric on it and they hooked up great. I can also get foams from HK much cheaper than I can get wheels, rubber tires, and inserts, so they seem like the way to go.
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