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Old 09-14-2003, 03:55 AM   #5221
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I do have the newer tank, but it is hard to tune an engine with air bubbles in the fuel line.

I have changed the spacers on the bottom off the tank and will see how that goes.
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:42 PM   #5222
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Hooked: Get a mugen tank and buy 2 HPI upper deck mounting post. Redrill the chassis, move the tank as far foward and to the left of the car as possible. It's the only true fix for the car! No matter what anybody says here. The only way to cure the tank deal is to isolate or suspend the tank in the car. The way the tank is in the car theres no way to stop vibration. 2 orings or not, the tank is still mounted solid in the car. Other people I know use carbon fiber and bolt and suspend a bracket from the upper deck to the tank. The mugen tank is so solid it will take a solid side impact, it may break the mounting post, but I don't think it will ever junk the tank.
I use the K Tank in the BMI chassis and the Ae tank and I have no troubles at all. So that's enough proof for me to know the AE chassis has too much flex and vibration issues.
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:55 PM   #5223
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HUM
wonder who dreampt that goofy idea up. LOL

new tank
fixes all the problems??
well some of them not all. see BB's post.


I use the K Tank in the .BMI chassis and the Ae tank and I have no troubles at all. So that's enough proof for me to know the AE chassis has too much flex and vibration issues.
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Old 09-14-2003, 08:58 PM   #5224
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Thanks Dennis!! You Da Man!
The BMI Chassis fixes most of all the car problems! LOL If, RPM would just make unbreakable chassis parts ( hubs and a-arms) It would give us nonperfect drivers room for error!

Last edited by bbntc3; 09-14-2003 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 09-15-2003, 02:32 AM   #5225
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Hooked: Get a mugen tank and buy 2 HPI upper deck mounting post. Redrill the chassis, move the tank as far foward and to the left of the car as possible. It's the only true fix for the car! No matter what anybody says here. The only way to cure the tank deal is to isolate or suspend the tank in the car. The way the tank is in the car theres no way to stop vibration. 2 orings or not, the tank is still mounted solid in the car. Other people I know use carbon fiber and bolt and suspend a bracket from the upper deck to the tank. The mugen tank is so solid it will take a solid side impact, it may break the mounting post, but I don't think it will ever junk the tank.
I use the K Tank in the BMI chassis and the Ae tank and I have no troubles at all. So that's enough proof for me to know the AE chassis has too much flex and vibration issues.
BBNTC3: I am using the BMI S1 Chassis and are having problems with air bubbles in the fuel line. On the S1 chassis do i use the standard mounting positions for the tank if i use the Mugen tank, as i don't think they will go any further forward? And which Mugen tank would you use, the MTX3?
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Last edited by hooked_on; 09-15-2003 at 03:31 AM.
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Old 09-15-2003, 02:36 AM   #5226
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
HUM
wonder who dreampt that goofy idea up. LOL

new tank
fixes all the problems??
well some of them not all. see BB's post.


I use the K Tank in the .BMI chassis and the Ae tank and I have no troubles at all. So that's enough proof for me to know the AE chassis has too much flex and vibration issues.
Dennis: What are your thoughts on the BMI Chassis? For you does it address all your concerns with the car? Comments please?
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:02 AM   #5227
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The stock chassis is the one you have to move the tank foward on. ( for better balance. Hum? Have you tried another tank? I Have no problems at all with bubbles in the BMI chassis, with standard and K tank. Might be the tank. Or engine vibration problems. Theres no way I would hack up the BMI chassis for the Mugen tank, it's not needed.
Dennis has help me alot with the NTC3 when it first came out, he went in another direction, I kept playing with the car. I feel that all the issues with the stock chassis is solved with the BMI chassis. Bob
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:07 AM   #5228
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I replaced the nipple on the tank that goes to the carby, maybe it is leaking there.
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:09 AM   #5229
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I might have to buy the K Factory tank... Any problems with it on the BMI Chassis?

I was very disappointed when Dennis left NTC3 and went MTX3
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:45 AM   #5230
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the k factory tank has a tendency to crack..
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Old 09-17-2003, 02:13 PM   #5231
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There's no problem using the K Tank with my Sirrio engines and my engine mounts that have about a .070 off set on them. But with my RB's the bottom of the exhaust mani. rubs the tank. I guess the exhaust outlet on the RB's or the mounting ears on the engine is lower/higher. I had to make another set of mounts about .070
higher than the stock K mounts so the tank cleared. Jay fixed all these issues with the G-2 chassis. The K tank did crack some when they first came out, I guess I'm lucky my tank is about 6 months old and no cracks yet,
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Old 09-17-2003, 06:34 PM   #5232
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Default aluminum differential case

i'm now experiencing loose diff casing since the the holes of plastic ones gets loose by the screws and you can't tighten it anymore. thinking of getting aluminum diff case is it better? i need advise.
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Old 09-17-2003, 08:07 PM   #5233
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LOOSE DIFFS

When the original 4-40 screws loosen up or get stripped out i use M3 screws in there place
By the time the M3 screws are loose or stripped you probably will need new diff case anyway
With the addition of "The Fix" and good driving you might not even have to replace diff cases for a while
Hope this helps
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Old 09-17-2003, 09:37 PM   #5234
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Default Re: LOOSE DIFFS

Quote:
Originally posted by racecar850
When the original 4-40 screws loosen up or get stripped out i use M3 screws in there place
By the time the M3 screws are loose or stripped you probably will need new diff case anyway
With the addition of "The Fix" and good driving you might not even have to replace diff cases for a while
Hope this helps
thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 09-18-2003, 09:34 AM   #5235
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Even with a SEVERE introduction to Mr. Wall, which would normally have destroyed diff cases as well as shock tower and arms, using TheFix prevented the damage from hitting the diff cases meaning my repairs were quite a bit less involved - remove the tower and arms, replace and go.
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