R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-03-2003, 05:54 PM   #5161
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: N. Cali
Posts: 854
Send a message via AIM to loosenut
Default

Yet another question. What brand of foams do you guys use? I've used Jaco - but they seemed to crack easily. TRCs seems to bend rather easy. Looking for a brand that won't bend easy.

Any suggestions?

G
loosenut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2003, 06:46 PM   #5162
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Use dish type rim foams like Speedmind.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2003, 10:11 PM   #5163
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Default US$60.00 worth of Hop-up

I have a budget of US$60.00 and thinking of buying some hop-ups for my ntc3. So far I upgraded my engine to novarossi s5 race and changed both my servos to futaba 9402. The rest are all stock. For now I'm considering the 3 racing chassis 4mm) and a GPM alloy radio tray. I am thinking of these 2 since the one I have from the kit gives the car a certain flex during running that can affect the car's stability. If there are more important hop-ups that I have to prioritize I would appreciate any suggestions. thanks.

Last edited by thefuzzclub; 09-03-2003 at 10:26 PM.
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 02:12 PM   #5164
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

loosenut- If you are cracking Jaco rims, then you might want to take it easier on the track, since the Nitro Shoes (and hopefully you are using nitro shoes, or else that could account for alot of problems) are as durable as any wheel out there. The TRC's are carpet rims and are probably considerably less durable, also some of the foams are dual purpose carpet and apshalt. Other tire brands to try... Mugen Fast, Ellegi maybe speedmind, CRC, or other gas sedan tires.

fuzz- Your chassis is not flexing, and if it is, its not enough to make a difference. If Barry Baker, Mark Pavidas, or Craig Drescher (if you are in Europe) can run fine with the stock set up, then it should be more than okay for any club or even semi-pro racer. If you really want to do things that are useful, here is a list of things (some you might already have)
-Ti Turnbuckles
-Sufficent tires (you can easily drop a few hundred there)
-A non beat up body (since beat up bodies can cause tire chunking and alot of problems if they are cracked)
-Also make sure you have a full spring set, and rear sway bar and front adjustable sway bar.

Also I would highly recommend the RD Logics chassis over the 3R one. RD Logics also makes a very very nice pipe for the NTC3, and their nitro sedan body I found to handle better than the Protoform 2.0 (the RD has slightly more steering, but its still just as stable in the back end).
__________________
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 03:59 PM   #5165
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 226
Default

If you don't already have these then I would suggest the following :

- Steering and brake cam bearings
- RPM bumper
- rpm ballcups and rod ends (try and fix some of the steering linkage slop with better ballcups and ends)
- Lots of good foams ( SpeedMind, or Jaco )
- aluminum shock tower brace w/graphite shock tower
- RD logics dual chamber pipe

Other than that ... nothing else is needed. Don't waste your time on any aftermarket radio trays; I bought one and took it off and put the stock tray back on the same day.

The stock chassis is awesome for a few reasons :

1) There aren't a million cutouts in it -hence, less debris floating around ... less mess to clean-
2) Relatively inexpensive to replace when needed
3) Performance is nothing but stellar with the stock chassis; if you stiffen up the chassis, it just means more of the plastic on the kit will crack/break upon impact or any subtle flexes the chassis plate may have when breaking etc. You'd just be moving stress to another area stiffening up the chassis completely.

I personally love the blue anodized stock chassis looks I however, still think the NTC3 is an ugly car compared to the belt cars ... but thats no matter; slap a sweet body on it! -your last item you can purchase with that $60 if nothing else-

have fun
chorner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 05:23 PM   #5166
Tech Addict
 
racecar850's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Independence, MO
Posts: 562
Send a message via MSN to racecar850 Send a message via Yahoo to racecar850 Send a message via Skype™ to racecar850
Angry UGLY

I dont think my NTC3 is an ugly car
__________________
Mugen MTX-4 :tire:
T-MAXX 3.3 :deathstar
MacBook...got fed up with pc :confused:

DRIVING...An inconvenient way of getting from A to B
racecar850 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 07:22 PM   #5167
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Default

chorner and stormperson,
thank you for your suggestions, i guess you're right, i will just get tires and a body for my ntc3. sometimes you want people to look at your car having those eye candy hop-ups. i'll just buy what is essential and necessary for the mean time.
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 10:48 PM   #5168
Tech Regular
 
Old Skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 342
Default

I would suggest both an elecgtronics fail-safe and a throttle return spring. Belt-and-suspenders approach, y'know!
Old Skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 11:03 PM   #5169
Tech Addict
 
thefuzzclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 704
Default fail safe

Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
I would suggest both an elecgtronics fail-safe and a throttle return spring. Belt-and-suspenders approach, y'know!
i use futaba 3pjs radio that has fail safe functions (when the receiver dies and when the car gets out of range). though i havent really experienced it, i wonder if it's really reliable.
thefuzzclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2003, 11:20 PM   #5170
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 226
Default

n/p fuzz
chorner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2003, 05:12 AM   #5171
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

Be careful with RPM ball cups though, because they can bind on the ballcup, and also i know on the electric TC3 you have to dremel them to make them not hit the chassis, but not sure about the NTC3. I actually just use AE offroad ballcups, since they are very free and more durable than you would need.

but yes, the RPM bumper is a MUST.
__________________
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2003, 02:54 PM   #5172
Tech Addict
 
hooked_on's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 725
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I have a question guys. When i run rubber tires on our concrete track i have to run a harder compound tire on the rear to stop the rear tires from overheating, my question is does this happen with foam tires? On foams i have always run the same compound or harder on the frnt?
__________________
- - - - 2013 Dick Johnson Racing Team Mate Member - - - -
hooked_on is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2003, 01:56 AM   #5173
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Usually we run one step harder on the front - I run 45 front, 40 rear.

I would add, as a suggested addon - TheFix.

No, it's not "necessary" but it does add durability to the one seriously weak point in the car. It takes a 4 screw link from the chassis to the lower trans case, 4 screw link from lower to upper and 3 screw link from upper case to shock tower and makes two of all those links solid all the way from chassis to tower.

Without - I had receiver wires cut and went runaway, into a wall. Broke arm, tower, upper and lower trans cases.

With - I was introduced to Mr. Wall at end of straight. Guy just wouldn't let me turn, just drove me straight into wall. Broke only arm and shock tower. Everything else was fine. Very similar accident.

If you get RPM cups (and I recommend them) make sure to get the off-road cups for the rear toe links. They're larger to fit the larger ball studs and larger tie rods.

Even though you've got a 3ps with failsafe - I would still get a return spring. Failsafe doesn't help if your servo wires get cut or it fails.

I don't put much stock in the brake bearings - 1: you're right in the area where a LOT of CRUD builds up. . . 2: you're only moving those bearings about 40 degrees. Bushingss will do just as well and all the dirt and crap isn't going to bother them as much.

The spring set is essential!
The front blade sway bar is essential (as is the normal rear)
I, personally, think the stock towers are great, but am still thinking about getting the aluminum/graphite towers. . .hmmmmmmm

And - the functional hopup to end all hopups - TheChassis. It has gotten nothing but absolute rave reviews. But it's expensive. $130ish.
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2003, 02:18 AM   #5174
Tech Addict
 
hooked_on's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 725
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I have been running 40's frnt and 37's rear?
__________________
- - - - 2013 Dick Johnson Racing Team Mate Member - - - -
hooked_on is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2003, 07:24 AM   #5175
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne/Australia
Posts: 131
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hi All,

I just got my NTC3 and have my first run and Nitro race meeting today. It's great fun! I brought the car as sec-hand and don't have the manual, I'm was running my car from sliding around and doing donut to drive-able condition due to I donno what setup I'm running today. hahah, but pretty fun day and end up with good result.

Can anyone be kind to give me the standard NTC3 foam tires setup from the manual so I have something to start with? I also is a new guy for foam tires and if anyone have suggestion on what diameter of tires is good, please share with me.

Some setup questions as well. How should I measure the droop? Should I use the droop gauge to measure the end-point of suspension arm? or measure the end-point on the hub?

Also, how to setup the front blade sway-bar? I saw some setup sheet have "flat" or "45 degree" setting?? which way to soften or harder the sway-bar?

Cheers
DanDan
DanDan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:15 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net