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Old 04-14-2002, 10:57 PM   #496
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Haven't had much luck with rubber either. I wound up with 25/20 F/R with the electroc tc3 bar on front. Lite oil in rears and the rear barely stayed under the car. Some 30's might have worked but i didn't have any mounted. Don't have that prob now though. Our track is a unpreped parkinglot, foams are out of the question.
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Old 04-15-2002, 12:50 PM   #497
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Just finished building my kit yesterday, everything went together without a hitch. I do have a couple of concerns though, maybe someone can help me in addressing these concerns.

1. Has anyone had a problem with the servo saver spring, it appears to be way to soft.

2. Will the Mugen MTX-2 tank fit on the NTC3?

3. How well does the kit / foam setup work?
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Old 04-15-2002, 01:09 PM   #498
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcfiend
Just finished building my kit yesterday, everything went together without a hitch. I do have a couple of concerns though, maybe someone can help me in addressing these concerns.

1. Has anyone had a problem with the servo saver spring, it appears to be way to soft.

2. Will the Mugen MTX-2 tank fit on the NTC3?

3. How well does the kit / foam setup work?
Change the servo spring to AE part # 6587 Torque control spring from the slipper clutch(Ae truck) It will make a huge difference.

Someone had a post about using the Mugen tank with no problems.You just need to re-drill and countersink some holes.(I think they also added some posts)I'm using the stock tank with a new pressure fitting added to the cap.

The kit foam set up works good as a starting point,it could of course be different at your track because of conditions.

Last edited by blimey; 04-15-2002 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 04-15-2002, 01:14 PM   #499
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Quote:
Change the servo spring to AE part # 6587 Torque control spring from the slipper clutch(Ae truck) It will make a huge difference.
Thanks Blimey, I'll p/u the part today and I'll check some of the previous pages to see if I can locate the information of the Mugen tank.
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Old 04-15-2002, 01:50 PM   #500
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actually after I think about it was a Serpent tank that BBNTC3 used not a Mugen.

Here is his mod....
If anyone is still having troubles with the fuel tank after the lid mods, heres the cure: I bought a new serpent tank and lid, used 2 Thundertiger stand offs re drilled the chassis and counter sunk the holes added 1 tc3 rack bushing to each standoff so the offset in the bottom of the tank would clear the chassis, mounted the tank alittle more foward to clear the exhaust and retuned the engine and it worked perfect! I'm sure the CG changed but not enough to really notice The car went from 4 1/2 mins on a tank of fuel to 7 1/2 mins.
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Old 04-15-2002, 02:03 PM   #501
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Quote:
actually after I think about it was a Serpent tank that BBNTC3 used not a Mugen.
Thanks Blimey. I'll try to see if my Mugen tank will work, if not i'll purchase the serpent tank. Where did you find the Tiger mounts?
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Old 04-15-2002, 02:19 PM   #502
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It wasn't me that did the mod,it was BBNTC3.I would assume that you could use any stand off(HPI etc)
You're welcome Good luck with your car,trust me you will love it!
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Old 04-15-2002, 03:06 PM   #503
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Yes guys I used a serpent impact or impulse tank will work, they are the same. I used ThunderTiger standoffs because I had them and they were free. Another one of my buds did the same deal but used HPI upperdeck stand offs and says they are the right height so he did'nt need to shim them like I did.
As for the handle on the car, if someone gets a good setup up please post. Its been a rain out every race for me so far. I have finally got the rear of the car to hook up somewhat better than before. Try using red springs on frt blues on rear. I use shocks that you set the dampening on by just twisting the shockshaft like the serpent shocks. I have the front shocks on the next to stiffest position which would probably be about 60wt. oil and the rear at next to softest setting which we be 30 or 40wt. oil. Both front and rear shocks are layed all the way down. 0 caster and the roll center to the inside holes on both front and rear, 0 to 1 degree neg camber, o to 1 degree rear toe.
I use mostly CRC foams and the compound is close too purple and dbl. purple. The funny thing is the car acts totally different than my others, try using the front tires on the rear which would be the double purples. Sunday we used this setup and was TQ of the field, until we rained out so not for sure it will work but I'm getting very close with the setup comfortable to drive. I have tried about six different foam compounds and 6 to 8 rubber compounds and the double purple front and rear works very good for us right now. Hope this helps!! BB
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Old 04-15-2002, 05:00 PM   #504
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After a bit of testing with the rubber tyres this Sunday I found Sorex 24's to work well on the rear with the stock rear setup and 24's or 28's for the front depending on how much reaction you want and how stiff the front is.Still have not found the right Foam combo ,the back end wants to come out a lot in corners.I am wondering if traction compound will have any effect on asphalt when used on foams.
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Old 04-15-2002, 05:04 PM   #505
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sorry guys. but thought maybe one of you may be interested in having a "second car" for experimentation.

due to lifes unexpectancies, am being forced to sell.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&threadid=3746
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Old 04-15-2002, 08:38 PM   #506
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Traction compounds seem to be of not much help at all either. The 2120# CRC foams seem to work pretty well on all four corners for me now. It could be because they are 32mm though. It's still alitlle bit loose in the rear but damn its fast!!
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Old 04-17-2002, 12:28 AM   #507
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fuel tubing question

Can you not use neoprene fuel tubing with nitromethane?
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Old 04-21-2002, 04:52 PM   #508
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Default Universal OFNA Starter Box and NTC3

I modified my OFNA starter box to suit my NTC3 better.
I have attached some pictures, and will explian the mods after.






I basically flipped the wheel and motors around so the wheel is sideways, but closer the the front of the box. This required cutting a new opening for the hole (not too bad with a dremel and cutting wheel).
I also moved the wheel over to the left side of the holder (there is already a hole there, just undo the 2 screws, slide it over and re-screw).
With the motors and wheel in this position, the wheel would interfere with the power switch, so I relocated the switch to the front, below the panel.
The car sits pretty well square on the box, except it is to the right a little to allow the fly wheel to hit dead top centere on the starter wheel.
After I mock fitted everything to ensure it would fit, I sanded, primed, painted and enameled the box blue instead of the faded pink.

I just tried it for the first time today, by turning over a brand new Nova RS12T ... no problems! Fired first try and every try after that.

Requires a little work, but works perfect for my NTC3!

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Old 04-22-2002, 12:55 AM   #509
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Very similar to what I did except I did not make any hole in mine but I did move the wheel to the other side of its casing leaving the motors against the panel side.I also made a custom jig for it to fit on every time perfectly.
Take a piece of Kydex bumper and trace out the front hole in the chassis beside the servo.
Cut the piece and make sure it fits in the hole perfect and bevel the edges of it so it will drop in to the hole.
Trace the hole to the starter box from the chassis and servo tape the piece to the box,add flat head screws after drilling and counter sinking holes.
to align the rear just do the same with the kydex forming it to the rear of the car behind the ball links.
Enjoy.
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Old 04-22-2002, 08:54 PM   #510
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Why not just take the standard Ofna box, turn the motors and wheel to fit the NTC3 and then switch the wire leads on the battery.
Works just fine for mine. Remember " K.I.S.S. ", keep it simple.
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