R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-04-2003, 08:33 PM   #4996
Tech Champion
 
nitrodude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 5,845
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

And you could get this upper deck t go with it for only $20.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg images001.jpg (74.8 KB, 159 views)
__________________
Steven Muller
AKA El Pibe RUFAST? HAHA!!!
Ronin Speed Parts
nitrodude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2003, 09:32 PM   #4997
Tech Adept
 
sbmon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: central florida
Posts: 242
Default

nice looking stuff there any real pictures of the chassis
the upper deck looks good but the configuration where
you have to take the shock tower off just to take the
upper deck off completely defeats the purpose of
haveing an easily removeable upper deck, i really like
things that are easy to get to and work on , it just makes
wrenching on the car so much easier, i don't care much about
the extra ridgedness of the single piece design
but the quality of the deck looks really nice
sb
sbmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2003, 08:30 AM   #4998
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Chicago
Posts: 418
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by premierNtc3
Hey guys... i was thinkin about getting a new chassis... which ones do you guys recommend. there are so many to choose from. Would it be better to go with titanium or aluminum. I really cant spend 170 for "the chassis"
I have two after market chassis, not because there is anything wrong with the original, but because I have this disease called "Hopupitis" that prevents me from leaving anything stock.

I run the 3Racing Chassis which is only $45. It is super stiff so you will have to make some suspension changes. It's nicely machine and has a nice finish.




I also have the K Factory chassis which is even more nicely made and finished but also twice as expensive. I can't say its worth more money then the 3Racing chassis since both chassis drive similarly.

HauntedMyst is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2003, 10:13 AM   #4999
Tech Adept
 
sbmon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: central florida
Posts: 242
Default

are the edges on that 3r chassis radiused up
like the stock ae chassis
sbmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2003, 10:50 AM   #5000
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 76
Default

Try RDL 7075 T6 NTC3 Chassis.
It is same as Kfactory based on whay I know.
http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_150.htm
Or 6061 T6

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_98.htm

Quote:
Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I have two after market chassis, not because there is anything wrong with the original, but because I have this disease called "Hopupitis" that prevents me from leaving anything stock.

I run the 3Racing Chassis which is only $45. It is super stiff so you will have to make some suspension changes. It's nicely machine and has a nice finish.




I also have the K Factory chassis which is even more nicely made and finished but also twice as expensive. I can't say its worth more money then the 3Racing chassis since both chassis drive similarly.

rdlken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2003, 07:14 PM   #5001
Tech Regular
 
Old Skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 342
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
are the edges on that 3r chassis radiused up
like the stock ae chassis
No, those look more like ground-clearance cuts. The stock AE chassis has its edges rolled up for strength purposes.
Old Skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2003, 12:27 PM   #5002
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: N. Cali
Posts: 854
Send a message via AIM to loosenut
Default need advice on ntc3 - newbie

Hey guys,

I hope you guys dont' mind helping a newbie. I just recently acquired my ntc3. Planning to racing it soon at my local hobby shop (castle hobby).

I have a couple of hop up questions.

1. What is "the fix" that I hear people talk about?
2. Are aluminum parts worth while?? There are two train of thoughts on this - plastic stuff are easier to break but sometimes it's good that certain parts break from impact to lessen the damage to the overall car, also they cheap to replace. Aluminum stuff, unbreakable but it bends....and heavier?? Worth it or just bling bling factor?

I was thinking about getting aluminum shock towers (in particular the 3racing.com towers) and aluminum diff cases from RDlogic - anyone has anything to say about those companies or those specific products?? I"m thinking that would the be weakest point of the car. My friends have had their towers rip rite off of the stock diff case....so wondering if going aluminum in this area would help?

3. Which tuned pipe is good for a none turbo sirios .12 engine? I've heard associated dual chamber is good. What about the rdlogic turbo dual chamber one piece?? What does the turbo mean on a pipe?? Also are these pipes legal for club races?

4. Has anyone used 3racing products before?? They have quite a few aftermarket parts for the ntc3 that I'm considering

5. Stock chasis vs. aftermarket aluminum chasis...all these nice looking aluminum lighter chasis...bling bling or worth while?

6. Any other must mods for the ntc3 ??

I guess what i'm trying to do is make all the "necessary" or quality mods to my ntc3 and eliminate those mods that does nothing in terms of performance.

BTW, anyone here race at castle hobby (what use to be called castle hobby)? Or from rccar club?? Thx. a million!!1

Gary
loosenut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2003, 12:45 PM   #5003
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 171
Default RD Logics Diff Cases

First off, look back through this thread and you'll find a lot of information, including pics, of "the fix". I don't use it and can't speak from personal experience but due to all of the good press here I have to think it's a must. I will eventually pick it up. As far as RD Logics is concerned, I use their aluminum diff cases and absolutely love them. I got my first car eight weeks ago, looked at the cases and knew they would be trouble. They were a must for me since I have a BAD habit of over tightening things. This may not pertain to you though. I this they have 13 threaded spots in each one. With that exposure to failure it's worth the few extra grams of weight to me. I also have their one piece turbo pipe. I not saying get one of these, just letting you know I do have experience with the company, which to date has been all positive.
jcrouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2003, 01:26 PM   #5004
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

We do this list every now and again - I really should put them together into a web page that we could just post. . .think I'll do that this weekend.

Okay - first, essential hopups. There aren't many. The car is pretty good, stock. But - here are a few:
[list=1][*]Replace the servo saver spring with the slipper clutch spring from the RC10GT off-road truck. The existing spring is pretty weak.[*]Replace the rear toe-links with Titanium. This isn't an "essential" but the ones that come with the kit are very weak and bend easily. One hit and you're really squirmy.[*]Get The Fix - more on that later.[*]This is what I did and I think it helped - I replaced all the ball cups with RPM's (remember to get the thicker ones for the rear - those toe links are Off-Road sized, not On-Road. . .) - I think it makes things just beefier and better able to withstand boards. . .[/list=1]

Now, TheFix is a device that is, essentially, a loong screw that comes up from the bottom of the chassis, through the diff cases and into a long spacer/nut that comes down through the shock tower. It connects all four elements (tower, upper case, lower case and chassis) together providing a TON of strength, rigidity and reliability. It is WELL worth the $20-30 bucks or so for a set of 4. I've been running the "home-brew" version (not as effective) for at least a year and have purchased and am using the real thing now. Much better. Look on EBay (search for "The Fix" even among closed auctions. . .) for it.

The RDLogics Diff Cases need a lot of work to make them work well - they aren't machined, they're molded so you will have to do some work everywhere that bearings fit to make sure they're snug but not bindy.

On the other hand, the RDLogics pipe has the endorsement of Richey (motorman) as being the hands-down best pipe for the NTC3. A friend has one and the improvement it made is awesome. (I'm still running as close to stock as possible, kinda because of stubborn-ness. . .)

Stick with the stock chassis until you get everything sorted out. As far as quality - I think "The Chassis" (from the maker of "The Fix - do you see a common lack of imaginative names here? ) is probably the best possible chassis, but after that I don't hear much consensus of a difference between all the others.

Aluminum is good in places. I won't ever get alum shock towers because I have seen them bend, even slightly, and then there's bindy problems. . .bad. On the other hand, there are a lot of places where I will go with Alum (after I get over my stock-stubbornness. . . ) - these will likely be in structural places - I'll likely use the RD tower that uses Carbon Fiber as the actual link. A failure point outside of the aluminum. . .
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2003, 02:39 PM   #5005
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: N. Cali
Posts: 854
Send a message via AIM to loosenut
Default

Wow thx for the info....it was a little tough to go through hundres of posts on this thread to get answers...so I appreciate the info.

Speaking of The Fix and aluminum shock towers (w/carbon fiber mounts or top)....will the fix work with after market shock towers or are they only fitted to the stock towers/diff cases??

Has anyone seen the 3racing towers? The upper part is carbon fiber...

G

Last edited by loosenut; 08-06-2003 at 02:46 PM.
loosenut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2003, 07:28 PM   #5006
Tech Adept
 
sbmon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: central florida
Posts: 242
Default

if you have the team kit and not the rtr
basically get the fix and spend the remaining money
on tires and maybe the ae spring set
all the other stuff is basically a bling thing
sb
sbmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2003, 11:30 PM   #5007
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Not really, sbmon - replacing the potmetal tie rods with Titanium is never bling. It makes for a much more durable car. Replacing the ball cups with RPMs makes for a more durable care and is CHEAP. Sure, they come in pretty colors, but they're durable and long lasting. That's bling with benefits. . .

The AE spring set is a GREAT investment, btw.

loosenut - not sure about the fix and aftermarket shock towers. . .sorry
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2003, 12:04 AM   #5008
Tech Master
 
me43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: honolulu,HI
Posts: 1,156
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
all the other stuff is basically a bling thing
sb
really?

i never new a front one way, ceramic ball bearings&diff. balls, and titanium pivot balls were bling bling
me43 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2003, 12:06 AM   #5009
Tech Master
 
me43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: honolulu,HI
Posts: 1,156
Default

forgot to mention sway bars, centax clutch, and a stiffer chassis

not to mention carbon parts
me43 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2003, 12:49 AM   #5010
Tech Elite
 
Boomer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Southern Cal - Claremont
Posts: 3,346
Send a message via ICQ to Boomer Send a message via AIM to Boomer
Default

Well, the one way isn't a first thing upgrade unless you're already comfortable with running one. . .

Ceramic bearings aren't necessary and I would consider them "bling" - I'm still running the stock ones and they're doing quite well, thank you.

We've pretty much determined that the Titanium balls bend as easily as the steel, so they're bling.

Sway bars - yeah, forgot those. Pick up the blade front sway bar. It will really help. While you're at it, pick up a regular sway bar for the rear. You may not use it at first, but you will eventually.

Centax clutch - well, a lot of people started using it and went away from it. I did. I'm using the stock setup still (with mods to the shoes) and a lot are using Crazynut shoes. Good idea - not necessarily the Centax. That's not really necessary at the beginning, so - again - bling.

Stiffer chassis. . . not a bad investment, but hey - why not get used to the car with the "free" blue one. . .wait until you get all the crap out of your system before getting a pretty Titanium or whatever chassis. (With the exception of TheChassis which I wish I could afford. . .)
__________________
-
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Boomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:32 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net