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Old 07-25-2003, 07:15 AM   #4921
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Default Centax Grease - Kluber

WOW....Talk about expensive. I just spoke with the regional distributor. The smallest quantity is 100grams, that's about 3 1/2 ounces, and the cost is $92.00. Any other ideas?
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Old 07-25-2003, 08:40 AM   #4922
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Default Re: Centax Grease - Kluber

Quote:
Originally posted by jcrouse
WOW....Talk about expensive. I just spoke with the regional distributor. The smallest quantity is 100grams, that's about 3 1/2 ounces, and the cost is $92.00. Any other ideas?
There are great grease made by SKF, much cheaper and quality can be rated next after Kluber. I belive the name is Microlube. One more lubricant made by "Pure power lubricants" is great too. there is web site for that company.
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Old 07-25-2003, 08:15 PM   #4923
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Just to let you guys know.....


I wacked off the outer guard on the fuel tank feed..then cut the nipple off,enlarged teh hole slightly with a steel rod..then installed a Dubro #241 pressure fitting(its brass)....


then put the fuel line on with a piece of fuel line on the outside holding it on tight..

the car can now be picked UP by the fuel line without it coming off..

And,call me crazy,but the car never ran smoother..there were NO bubbles in teh fuel feed line.....it was running cooler....of course,it was a less humid night in NJ,but it ran great,i'll tell you that..

plus,NO chance of that line popping off....
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Old 07-26-2003, 12:45 AM   #4924
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Pleased it worked for you.......
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Old 07-26-2003, 05:26 AM   #4925
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Default RD logics pipe for NTC3

IS there any performance difference between these pipes and the stock or Dual chamber AE pipe for the rear exhaust engines?
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Old 07-26-2003, 06:11 AM   #4926
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I'll never switch cars! Belt cars suck! Glad it works for you stock! I answer emails everyday from people that it don't work for. I guess your car also never traction rolls and spins out, and goes where ever you point it, always stay in tweak, and the fuel never shakes out of the fill when fueling, and has never over heated. If it does all that for you, then no you don't need to spend $170 for it. The BMI chassis is not for everybody, but if you want to go to a better level of racing, you need it. I never thought twice about the price of the chassis. But that's just me.
"SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST YOU WANT TO GO" That's an old saying here that pretty much speaks for itself.
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Old 07-26-2003, 06:17 AM   #4927
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The RD pipe seem to work for me the best, it has less back pressure, better sound and easier to tune.
AE stock and dual pipes are ok, I think harder to tune due to, increased back pressure in the pipe. The dual chamber has alittle smoother transition from low to high bands. Sound is the only main difference to me with the 2 AE pipes.
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Old 07-26-2003, 06:19 AM   #4928
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Quote:
Originally posted by xray vision
Pleased it worked for you.......


X ray..it was you who gave me the idea on that......

I didn't have the energy to go back and look(I'm old )

but it worked great.......honest to god,if I didn't know better,I'd think the air is slipping into the stock fuel nipple at that location..


If I go next week,and it runs as great(and cool) as it ran tonite,I will assume that..

anyway,great job to you!!
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Old 07-26-2003, 10:00 AM   #4929
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Does Barry Baker use a BMI chassis? If he doesnt he should...it will take him to the next level of racing But seriously... My car doesnt stay in tweak and it will shake alittle fuel out when refueling but it doesnt spin out because I set the car for the different conditions and tracks. My car doesnt overheat....I keep it in tune...takes 2 minute to do this. I look at the top racers cars and see stock chassis's. I am not looking for a flame war but I think alot of this aftermarket stuff and people hyping it up after they spent their money on it confuses people. So speed is a question of money in a unlimited class. Beauty sucks up alot of that dollar to. If you are into pimpin out your ride great...if it stiffens your chassis up alittle in the process fantastic. If a BMI chassis is your thing than run with it....you are intitled to your opinion as I am with mine. Also I am glad that chassis works for you.
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Old 07-26-2003, 10:23 AM   #4930
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Is the BMI chassis a "factory direct" item, or does Racers-Edge carry it?
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Old 07-26-2003, 11:08 AM   #4931
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Are the ball cups and the balls suppose to fit loosely? I'm using the stock balls and the RPM cups.
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Old 07-26-2003, 12:25 PM   #4932
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Check on Ebay for it....or read the forum posted The chassis for you ntc3
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Old 07-26-2003, 02:27 PM   #4933
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there is too much slop in the stock steering linkage IMHO. Although, it really doesn't affect performance at all on the strack.
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Old 07-26-2003, 09:26 PM   #4934
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Yes, Baker has looked at it and is very impressed!! I don't think AE would like it if he used it, but Baker could win with a TYCO product. This chassis is gonna start showing up at alot of tracks and surprise alot of people, Hell it's only been out, what? a month now? Alot of people has jumped off the NTC3 band wagon for some reason! Call it hype or what ever, "eye candy", it really does work. It works better and will out last 10 AE chassis's, So why is it not worth it? I'm not trying to confuse anybody, if you have the car and don't like the package its just another option. Anything can be made better, so what's the big deal? Buy it or forget it.
Like I said, it's not for everybody!
If you have to ask how much something cost, most of the time you did'nt need it anyway.
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Old 07-26-2003, 09:46 PM   #4935
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
It works better and will out last 10 AE chassis's, So why is it not worth it?
Yup! The stock chassis warps very easily. Especially near the engine mounting area.

Anyone check their chassis with a straightedge yet?
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