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Old 07-14-2003, 05:39 PM   #4831
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Default its actually the outside diameter

the reason why you ever hear about the associated fuel tubing ,, is when you use the stock exhaust with the hole in it , you must use teh associated line so it doesnt pop out ,, you can get away with gs tubing also , but you have to clean it off after every run to make sure it doesnt slide around the exhaust , the inside diameters are the same though ,,

another weekend of racing over with :

rear ball cup popped off during a qualifier,, no big deal , took 3 seconds to fix , my friends not so lucky ,, he was running another pivot ball car(wont mention the brand , as i dont wanna start a war) and he took fifteen minutes to replace his rear hub carrier ,,, oh my fix was free,,, -i may replace teh rpm cup cause its old, ---i think 5bucks for 12 cups,, cost him 12 bucks for one hub carrier ,, hmm , whos company is the real snake ,,,, (i am using snake as a slimey substitute)

i love my rear linkage problems ,,,,,,,,,, oh wait thats right i didnt have any , i just CRASHED HARD INTO A CONCRETE BARRIER

GO FIGURE

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Old 07-14-2003, 06:00 PM   #4832
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
This problem has occured on my friends car a number of times, they are using the standard associated fuel line. Our solution is to cut off the raised outer section where the fuel feed line comes from. This exposes the nipple far more. We then usually use a reamer on the nipple itself as often there is some flashing from the moulding process. Last step is to install the fuel line with a shock o ring around it and since the raised outer section is gone you can push it far down around the nipple.



Now how come I didn't think of cutting off that outside section..that is a damn good idea.....


great job AMG........Any comments on the pulling issue I raised in an earlier post?...
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Old 07-14-2003, 06:49 PM   #4833
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The fix i get everyone to do is cut the outlet off about 2mm from the tank,then use a body reamer to CAREFULLY open up the outlet so it is slightly smaller than the screw in exhaust nipple thread.
Remove any flashing inside the fuel outlet,place a shock o ring over the thread on the nipple and carefully screw it in so that the o ring is slightly compressed between the tank and nipple.
So far 6 cars in brissie have done my mod,not one failure ....

Tools required...1 screw in exhast nipple
body reamer
... 1 shock "o" ring

Hope this helps

Terry
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Old 07-14-2003, 06:55 PM   #4834
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Quote:
Originally posted by xray vision
The fix i get everyone to do is cut the outlet off about 2mm from the tank,then use a body reamer to CAREFULLY open up the outlet so it is slightly smaller than the screw in exhaust nipple thread.
Remove any flashing inside the fuel outlet,place a shock o ring over the thread on the nipple and carefully screw it in so that the o ring is slightly compressed between the tank and nipple.
So far 6 cars in brissie have done my mod,not one failure ....

Tools required...1 screw in exhast nipple
body reamer
... 1 shock "o" ring

Hope this helps

Terry

wow..you guys are impressing me....thats a good one too..

all I was gonna do was Jb weld the fuel line in...

anyone else ever experiance the tracking issue I had with teh boards this week?....
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:11 PM   #4835
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Quote:
Originally posted by xray vision
The fix i get everyone to do is cut the outlet off about 2mm from the tank,then use a body reamer to CAREFULLY open up the outlet so it is slightly smaller than the screw in exhaust nipple thread.
Remove any flashing inside the fuel outlet,place a shock o ring over the thread on the nipple and carefully screw it in so that the o ring is slightly compressed between the tank and nipple.
So far 6 cars in brissie have done my mod,not one failure ....

Tools required...1 screw in exhast nipple
body reamer
... 1 shock "o" ring

Hope this helps

Terry
So you replacing the whole nipple now? We have done the o-ring on plastic nipple trick, might have to try your way sounds even better
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:21 PM   #4836
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That blasted nipple cost me 2 qualifers at brendale....
Replacing the nipple is best way of not losing fuel lines..!
Don't have to worry about pressure in the tank.
Cars modded to date all mr toys Lawnton,mine,hooked on,Big Phill plus a couple of other's that run at brendale...
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Old 07-14-2003, 07:52 PM   #4837
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Quote:
Originally posted by xray vision
That blasted nipple cost me 2 qualifers at brendale....
Replacing the nipple is best way of not losing fuel lines..!
Don't have to worry about pressure in the tank.
Cars modded to date all mr toys Lawnton,mine,hooked on,Big Phill plus a couple of other's that run at brendale...
Yeah we did the mod on Justins when his Fantom FR12 kept on blowing the lines off the tank. Now Big Phil has that car and the better fix

My Kyosho never has this issue, I think you are right that the brass fitting is more secure than the plastic nipple.
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:09 PM   #4838
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Hmmm, never had fuel line issues. But I never have used the AE fuel tank long enough to have troubles. I walked out to the closest intersection in my town and punted that sucker over a year ago. If you guys are using the rear exhaust stock AE pipes I would blame the problem on too much back pressure in the pipe, It's known for that. I thought the AE fuel tubing was smaller in OD. not ID, because of the small hole in the pipe you have to cram the line in. But that's a good fix you guys have came up with!
I used all RPM ball sockets up till I purchased the BMI Chassis, I was trying to cut some weight so a picked up the GS ones. They are alittle smaller and lighter. I have'nt had any trouble with them yet. RPM is the best that I have used.
I'm going back to the rpm stuff on the rear toe, instead of the captured ends that I'm using now. With the extra weight the car has now with the chassis, it breaks the rear hub everytime you smack the wall with it. I'd rather pop the end back on and go instead of the hub change. I'll have rear jam nuts for the car very shortly, left and right hand thread, they'll be alum hex nuts and 1/4 size, for sale, sorry guys no pricing yet. I know you not suppose to hit the wall, but , SHIT HAPPENS!
Thanks for the hook up at Trinity Harry but I get my stuff at the LHS, they purchase direct from Trinity, and sell to me at 10% over cost. If it was'nt for that I would not purchase anything from Ernie! I'm still buying from him, but he's not getting the full cut off me! He has cornered all corners of the RC market and is making a fortune off us racers. For example, anybody notice the new pricing for Rossi engines now that Ernie has the whole Rossi deal? Not to mention everything else he has sowed up in the RC market! Thank God the RC community did'nt vote him into the middle of ROAR .

Last edited by bbntc3; 07-14-2003 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 07-15-2003, 05:16 AM   #4839
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Arrow Pressure Prob's....

as you know. i'm in the process of building my NTC3 as we speak.
i read all the fixxes for the pressure prob. but, also have noticed a few of yall talk about using different tanks. what fuel tank do you recommend for me to use? and what about the pipe? is the RDLogic pipe one of the better pipes to go with?

thanks,
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Old 07-15-2003, 06:03 AM   #4840
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Hmmm, never had fuel line issues. But I never have used the AE fuel tank long enough to have troubles. I walked out to the closest intersection in my town and punted that sucker over a year ago. If you guys are using the rear exhaust stock AE pipes I would blame the problem on too much back pressure in the pipe, It's known for that. I thought the AE fuel tubing was smaller in OD. not ID, because of the small hole in the pipe you have to cram the line in. But that's a good fix you guys have came up with!
I used all RPM ball sockets up till I purchased the BMI Chassis, I was trying to cut some weight so a picked up the GS ones. They are alittle smaller and lighter. I have'nt had any trouble with them yet. RPM is the best that I have used.
I'm going back to the rpm stuff on the rear toe, instead of the captured ends that I'm using now. With the extra weight the car has now with the chassis, it breaks the rear hub everytime you smack the wall with it. I'd rather pop the end back on and go instead of the hub change. I'll have rear jam nuts for the car very shortly, left and right hand thread, they'll be alum hex nuts and 1/4 size, for sale, sorry guys no pricing yet. I know you not suppose to hit the wall, but , SHIT HAPPENS!
Thanks for the hook up at Trinity Harry but I get my stuff at the LHS, they purchase direct from Trinity, and sell to me at 10% over cost. If it was'nt for that I would not purchase anything from Ernie! I'm still buying from him, but he's not getting the full cut off me! He has cornered all corners of the RC market and is making a fortune off us racers. For example, anybody notice the new pricing for Rossi engines now that Ernie has the whole Rossi deal? Not to mention everything else he has sowed up in the RC market! Thank God the RC community did'nt vote him into the middle of ROAR .

now that I'm a card carrying member of ROAR,I agree....

As far as the servvo saver arb,I'm going to use a Kimbrough arm cut down to fit the car..The tc3 uses a B2 arm,its a little deeper so it clears teh servo linkage...It also uses a shorter ball...I'm going to use HPIs purple ball....I tried it,Lots of Clearance..

I looked at all the teeth inside the servo arms...Kimbbroughs were the sharpest,and most defined..plus,their quality is great..

That,and running the servo saver spring(teh GT slipper one,which I was using,just LOCKED down) a little loose, should take care of the problem..


I have to be honest,The new style(Associated) tank ran way better then the K factory..........the TR ran cooler,stayed in tune,AND got better milaege....

Thats what I'll be using..........I just JB welded the fuel line in..I'll cut a small section off,pop on a gutted fuel filter,and this way I can change the length if needed..I'll see if the JB holds up for a few weeks.....if not,its nipple time..


BTW,I'm running the Dual chamber pipe....

Maybe I'll move the fitting foward,for less pressure....(which is why those guys did it,now I know why)..Also,rememeber that article about Barry Bakers car..I'm pretty sure he epoxied his line in..(OOOPPPPS)....

Take care..
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Old 07-15-2003, 04:05 PM   #4841
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Yeah we did the mod on Justins when his Fantom FR12 kept on blowing the lines off the tank. Now Big Phil has that car and the better fix

My Kyosho never has this issue, I think you are right that the brass fitting is more secure than the plastic nipple.
That fixes the problem at the tank end, but what about the exhaust end, i guess using a side exhaust is easy you could just change the pipe. What happens with the rear exhaust? RD Logics?
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Old 07-16-2003, 04:49 AM   #4842
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Has anyone tried the following engine in a NTC3 & if so how des it go with the BMI Chassis. Fantom, FR12 NITRO ENGINE, SLIDE CARB REAR EXHAUST, SG SHAFT????
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Old 07-16-2003, 02:26 PM   #4843
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Does anyone know of an easy way to take off the e-clips without them flying across the room and killing someone? Is their a speacial tool designed for taking them off?
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Old 07-16-2003, 02:38 PM   #4844
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Use a small flathead screwdriver. Insert the flat carner in the e-clip opening and push out ward gently.
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Old 07-16-2003, 04:08 PM   #4845
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what is the proper engine setting on the high and low speed needle for good performance. because i think my low speed is to rich. because when i pinch the fuel line it takes like 7 sec to die.
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