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Old 07-13-2003, 08:10 PM   #4816
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Default Re: "The Fix"

Quote:
Originally posted by muddywaters
I just bought the NTC3 and have been assembling it here and there for a few days now. This is not my first RC though. I've built several 8th Scale Off-road Buggies and Stadium Trucks plus a couple of Impacts. I am hoping to find suggestions on the necassary upgrades(ie. ti turnbuckles, sway bars, one-ways, etc) before I assemble the whole kit.
I've been reading post on this thread all day. Well, in between the "Honey Doos." lol I keep hearing about "the fix." What is it, will I need it and where can I get it.
Hopefully, my intentions with the NTC3 will not offend you guys. But, me and my son are building it to Race around the Parking Lots. I have a few Impacts I built for me with 21's and this is gonna be for my son. It's getting the NS12 5Port. Regrettably, we do not have no on-road tracks near where we live. We do prep an area in the parking lots with blowers and brooms. They are mostly Drag Racing and making Top Speed passes. I am planning to get the accessories needed to set up a road coarse.
I was hoping someone can advise me which direction to go with this car. This way I can build it with the recommended parts the first time. Instead of assembling the kit now and having to rebuild it with the suggested parts later.

Thanks in advance,
muddywaters
go to ERbay and type in "the fix tc3'..you'll get the whole story.

Basically what it does is tie teh shock tower and both gearboxes together..

If it doesn't come up on Ebat,go to advanced search,and do completed items..
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:11 PM   #4817
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
this is my first nitro, is this hard to tune?
I havent broken mine in yet, but I dont think it would be a good first nitro engine. You will make mistakes, sometimes big mistakes with your first nitro engine and youd be better off with more of a sport engine that can put up with the stuff you do to it when learning how to tune. I reccomend an OS mabey a TR.
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:13 PM   #4818
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Arrow Ebay?????

I read that in anearlier post and tried it already. NO LUCK....
any other suggestions?

muddywaters
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:15 PM   #4819
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Quote:
Originally posted by AE Racer
My friends getting out of rc and hes got some TRC foams that are pretty new that I could buy off him. In one set the compounds are pink and purple and in the other set the compounds are magenta and pink. Will these be any good for the ntc3? theyre all 26mm because theyre off his electric tc3.
Should I buy them? Someone told me that diffrent types of foam are used for carpet and asphalt and that the carpet foams my friend is selling wont work well on asphalt. Is this true?
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:19 PM   #4820
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Muddy: Email this guy he can fix you up with the fix. Or it can be made much cheaper and do the same job. I have posted in here how to make it( sorta the same thing) for about $4, a few different times.
[email protected]
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:32 PM   #4821
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Default Spur Gears Protection

Anyone tried putting a cover or any protection on the spur gears? It was metioned before that you can put a customed made plastic cover but not sure how. Would appriciate any suggestion since the plastic material is kinda soft and it chews up easily when small rocks gets into it. Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:36 PM   #4822
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Default Re: Ebay?????

Quote:
Originally posted by muddywaters
I read that in anearlier post and tried it already. NO LUCK....
any other suggestions?

muddywaters
go to advanced search in Ebay....and check "completed items"..

it will come up..

or email Jim reeves as BBNTC3 said.
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:44 PM   #4823
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Default Thanks,

i've already sent Jim an e-mail. i'm waiting for his reply.
can you give me any tips on upgrades for my intended use for the NTC3?

muddywaters
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Old 07-13-2003, 08:48 PM   #4824
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Muddy: Email this guy he can fix you up with the fix. Or it can be made much cheaper and do the same job. I have posted in here how to make it( sorta the same thing) for about $4, a few different times.
[email protected]

hey BB..how goes the racing..


I need your opinion..

I ran my second ROAR regional race today in Edison nj....

I ran a 30 minute main.(A..came in second,qualified 6th)..

but I did notice(and it happened a cuple of times in my first race also).....The car took everthing I could dish out....evrything held together(diffs included)..but one thing concerns me..


If I grazed the boards,or tap them,in a side ways shot,teh car starts steering off center,,and I have to hit the trim on my Futaba 3 pk a couple of clicks to get it to track straight.....This only happened with qualifiying heats..I changed the servo arm,and loosened up teh spring a tad..and it still did it once or twice....In the main,I tapped a couple of times,amd it was fine..


this has not happened in a year of firehose racing..and the car does more barrel rolls,and t bones in a parking lot..

any clues on this?

beyond that,the car stayed together great,was VERY smooth on corners,and very predictable..



OH,BTW,........I think that K factory tank is a problem...


I could not even make a 5 minute heat with that tank.....the car ran out of fuel each time with 10 seconds to go...thats with differnt plugs,the TR leaned out to 280 degrres,AND 4 inches of coiled fuel line..

I popped teh stock tank in for the main..and changed nothing else..in fact,I richened the motor...finished each 5 min segment with 1/4 inch in bottom....

thayt happen to you?
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Old 07-13-2003, 10:12 PM   #4825
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Harry: racing really sucked this weekend! Car ran good first heat finished 2nd. Second heat car was good but after first lap the K centax exploded! Thrust brg was gone and blew both clutch plates out of the car. All the clutch clearances were right and the adjusting nut did'nt back off, I had it apart the night before the race and theres was nothing wrong with it. I greased the thrust brg, but I don't see where greasing it helps any, the manual with the clutch says nothing about greasin it! and when I do grease it after the heat race theres no grease to be found on it. Maybe grease it every race like I have been told. That's too much trouble for me on short tracks, so I may go to the 3 shoe K clutch if I can ever get it!, I have had it ordered for months . Then came the rain! WTF is up with this weather! 50mph wind down pouring rain with 1/4 balls of hail mixed in it. WTF?
The steering trouble is like the rear toe, its compressing the ends. Did you by chance check toe in after you hit the boards? I bet its off! Mine use to do it too. Also the chassis flex I always bitched about sometimes plays a role in that too. Hit the boards can tweak the chassis some and then it will flex back to normal. No BS! I think I read somewhere that Lunsford makes the Ae turnbuckles, but buy the Punisher buckle kit (shiny) it's a good investment if you are not using them. When my car would do the steering thing you talk about the toe in was always off when I checked it after each heat. I always set the car backup on the Hudy after each heat race. I'm using GS ball ends and Lunsford TI balls, and the punisher buckles. The steering was very tight, matter a fact too tight for a few races then it loosens right up. Now when I recheck the toe its exactly where I set it.
As far as the K tank goes, I'm not really happy with it but I have it working ok. The engine is very sensitive to settings with it. At first yes 5 mins was a struggle. I top off when its time to go to the line and I can get about 6 mins out of it, but that's pushing it. MY car comes off the track on 30% nitro and 8% oil at about 240 degrees in a 10 min main. With the BMI chassis and the BMI mounts the exhaust outlet is almost on the tank, maybe .020 clearance. When I removed the engine today theres a small burn mark in the tank. Not Good!!!!
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Old 07-13-2003, 10:19 PM   #4826
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MUDDYWATERS,

Try the K-Factory Centax. It is fully adjustable without having to remove the clutch and K-Factory offers the clutch gears from 20T - 27T. It is an excellent clutch...
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Old 07-14-2003, 04:56 AM   #4827
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BB- did yo ever try those alloy shoes from Crazy Nut Racing? They work really well and there isn't all the mess to maintain like with a centax. Plus they are affordable. Check them out.

www.crazynutracing.com

Jon
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Old 07-14-2003, 06:30 AM   #4828
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Harry: racing really sucked this weekend! Car ran good first heat finished 2nd. Second heat car was good but after first lap the K centax exploded! Thrust brg was gone and blew both clutch plates out of the car. All the clutch clearances were right and the adjusting nut did'nt back off, I had it apart the night before the race and theres was nothing wrong with it. I greased the thrust brg, but I don't see where greasing it helps any, the manual with the clutch says nothing about greasin it! and when I do grease it after the heat race theres no grease to be found on it. Maybe grease it every race like I have been told. That's too much trouble for me on short tracks, so I may go to the 3 shoe K clutch if I can ever get it!, I have had it ordered for months . Then came the rain! WTF is up with this weather! 50mph wind down pouring rain with 1/4 balls of hail mixed in it. WTF?
The steering trouble is like the rear toe, its compressing the ends. Did you by chance check toe in after you hit the boards? I bet its off! Mine use to do it too. Also the chassis flex I always bitched about sometimes plays a role in that too. Hit the boards can tweak the chassis some and then it will flex back to normal. No BS! I think I read somewhere that Lunsford makes the Ae turnbuckles, but buy the Punisher buckle kit (shiny) it's a good investment if you are not using them. When my car would do the steering thing you talk about the toe in was always off when I checked it after each heat. I always set the car backup on the Hudy after each heat race. I'm using GS ball ends and Lunsford TI balls, and the punisher buckles. The steering was very tight, matter a fact too tight for a few races then it loosens right up. Now when I recheck the toe its exactly where I set it.
As far as the K tank goes, I'm not really happy with it but I have it working ok. The engine is very sensitive to settings with it. At first yes 5 mins was a struggle. I top off when its time to go to the line and I can get about 6 mins out of it, but that's pushing it. MY car comes off the track on 30% nitro and 8% oil at about 240 degrees in a 10 min main. With the BMI chassis and the BMI mounts the exhaust outlet is almost on the tank, maybe .020 clearance. When I removed the engine today theres a small burn mark in the tank. Not Good!!!!

Lunsford doesn't make the Associated buckles....

Actually,I have the lunsfordkit...I bought it,put the SD's on the back(with the Kyosho collars) and never put the front ones on,thinking they wont be a problem..I will now..

Your using GSball cups..I'm using RPMs all around..You like those better?......

Also,I have the Slipper spring in mine,with a hitec 5925 servo....My spring was set really tight,and I noticed slop in teh servo arm....That might have been moving also..I replaced it Sat night(after the Qualifiyers,at the Marriot,ON their cherry wood desk..nice and flat too,better than a HUDY board )

Thats maybe why it wasn;t as bad during the race..I'm gonna run the servo saver a little loose...

I didn't check the toe after the heat..I will now to keep an eye on it....Maybe I was bending those nitro shoe wheels a tad also..

I'll tell you one thing..Sat practice,I ran 15 tanks...and 2 heats..

That car stayed in PERFECT tweak,camber,and ran perfect...Sun,the same....

so I'll work on teh toe issue...

Trinity has the thrust bearings for the K factory centax...I think they also have the optional gears for it..(get the numbers for them ofk K fact's web site)..ask for toni,shes real nice..


Tell her Harry from north jersey told you to call..

I wonder if the K factory tank is 75cc?...

I was pitting next to Bill Rondeau..a trinty driver.....He could't believe it either....but he saw what lousy run time the tank has..

othger than that,the tc3 ran great....

oh yeah..MY fuel tank feed line popped of..lost 2 minutes(I was on the lead lap 20 minutes into the race)..I'm using Aerotrend line..

I remember reading that Associateds line is SLIGHTLY smaller( I.D.)..ever hear that?...


ever happen to you?.....Any ideas how to keep it on(besides using Associeteds line?...

Thanks
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Old 07-14-2003, 11:58 AM   #4829
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I'm using GS line and I have never had a problem with it popping off. The associated line does have a slightly smaller ID. I mic'd it on a caliper.
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Old 07-14-2003, 04:38 PM   #4830
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
oh yeah..MY fuel tank feed line popped of..lost 2 minutes(I was on the lead lap 20 minutes into the race)..I'm using Aerotrend line..

I remember reading that Associateds line is SLIGHTLY smaller( I.D.)..ever hear that?...


ever happen to you?.....Any ideas how to keep it on(besides using Associeteds line?...

Thanks
This problem has occured on my friends car a number of times, they are using the standard associated fuel line. Our solution is to cut off the raised outer section where the fuel feed line comes from. This exposes the nipple far more. We then usually use a reamer on the nipple itself as often there is some flashing from the moulding process. Last step is to install the fuel line with a shock o ring around it and since the raised outer section is gone you can push it far down around the nipple.
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