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Old 07-11-2003, 11:14 AM   #4771
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is this car discontinued? how come some sites dont sell them anymore?
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Old 07-11-2003, 11:32 AM   #4772
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Don't know but you really should ask the sites that aren't selling them why they're not selling them?

All the places I check seem to have them in stock.
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Old 07-11-2003, 01:30 PM   #4773
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what do i need to get with this kit?... i heard u must get "the fix"
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Old 07-11-2003, 01:40 PM   #4774
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i dont have the fix and my car hasnt been demolished in the front end.
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Old 07-11-2003, 03:46 PM   #4775
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not yet it hasnt.....tomorrow i will put it to the test......hahahahha
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Old 07-11-2003, 03:48 PM   #4776
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are you guys both coming to the race in Minnesota next weekend?

Jon
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Old 07-11-2003, 04:05 PM   #4777
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
what do i need to get with this kit?... i heard u must get "the fix"
If you crash alot, hit the boards often or bump into other cars frequently then you shold get the fix and a couple replacement bumpers. Otherwise changing to a couple longer screws in the front will do. Only two are changed from 3/8" to 1/2" or 5/8" and not on the short side of the trans.
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Old 07-12-2003, 05:37 AM   #4778
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Greetings from Australia!

I have a silly question, what are the differences between the pullstart and non pullstart kit. Obviously the non pullstart has a different pipe and header, smaller engine mounts & flywheel. Is the clutch and all the connectors the same?

I have the BMI chassis on it's way and had hoped to run a pullstart. Will have to screw my MR12 in now and wanna know what i will have to get swapped over.

Cheers,

Andrew
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Old 07-12-2003, 05:38 AM   #4779
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Default Help Ofna Micro Failsafe

Guys,

i have the ntc3, and i bought the new micro failsafe by ofna. and in the directions it says that if the light is blinking it means that the batteries are low. ok, here is the catch, i put fresh batteries in and it still does blink. It is supposed to be off (the light). I have tested the failsafe by turning the reciever on then the transmitter, then i turn off the transmitter, to simulate radio interference, and the fail safe works perfect. So should i be worried about the flashing light.??? Do i need more power. I am using the 4 cell battery holder (AA) NOT RECHARGABLES. I am using the Energizer e2 titaniums.

any help would be great. Thanks agian guys.

David
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Old 07-12-2003, 05:59 AM   #4780
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Buy a five cell pack. The servos will react faster and you will get better range out of the radio. Plus you can recharge it instead of spending 4 dollars every time the batteries go dead.

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Old 07-12-2003, 06:37 AM   #4781
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swen
Buy a five cell pack. The servos will react faster and you will get better range out of the radio. Plus you can recharge it instead of spending 4 dollars every time the batteries go dead.

Jon
please recommend a battery pack and charger.
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Old 07-12-2003, 09:56 AM   #4782
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Check out the flat pack from RDLogics. It works great and any brand radio charger will have a reciever battery charger on it too. Just make sure the polarity is correct.

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Old 07-12-2003, 10:51 AM   #4783
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Default Servo and battery conectors

Hey All, I was wondering if anyone knows how to stop the wires from fraying and connming out of the servo/battery connectors. I try to pull the connectors and not the wires when I have to take out my reviever and stuff of that sort. any help would be greatly appc.


Thanks J.
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Old 07-12-2003, 12:04 PM   #4784
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Does anyone have a problem with the FT blade roll bar and the rpm bumper interferring/touching each other?
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Old 07-12-2003, 06:49 PM   #4785
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does anyone have the part 3 for an MR-12?

thankx
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