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Old 07-05-2003, 10:05 PM   #4711
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What is great about the front one way. Is it a necessity?

If you start breaking an engine with 3/4 of a tank of 20% Mugen fuel, is it too late to use odonal fuel? Its a MR-12 turbo.

thanks.
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Old 07-05-2003, 10:31 PM   #4712
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front one-ways allow more off power steering

mainly used when running foams
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Old 07-05-2003, 10:46 PM   #4713
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Hey guys, i bought this OS .12 CVR engine about 2 years back and never have a chance to use it. I am currently looking to buy the NTC3. Can someone tell me whether this engine fits into the NTC3? How is the NTC3 compared to other belt driven TCs? Thanks for any input. Cheers.
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Old 07-06-2003, 02:10 AM   #4714
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
I've run into a problem with the aluminum clutch shoes...and maybe I didn't know this. but they have a tendency to wear funny...the material from the shoe spreads over the edge,and wears a groove in the flywheel(causing teh shoes to get stuck,and not move free)..I could actually hold the shoes in teh OUT position,and they would stay there(with HD springs)..My new OS TR didn't have any punch..now I know why..

I'm going to put Kyosho 3mm washers under the shoes so they ride off the flywheel...This way,when they wear,they won't dig in..

(was I supposed to know this?)...also,the clutchbell is GONE in less than half a gallon...

I think they need to be made out a slightly softer material...
Yep. And that's why I don't use them on any of my cars or trucks. They were all the rage a couple of years ago in the 1/8th scale buggy scene, but people started having wear issues, just like you described above. Personally, I would stay as far away from 'em as possible.
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Old 07-06-2003, 05:49 AM   #4715
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Quote:
Originally posted by diesel
Hey guys, i bought this OS .12 CVR engine about 2 years back and never have a chance to use it. I am currently looking to buy the NTC3. Can someone tell me whether this engine fits into the NTC3? How is the NTC3 compared to other belt driven TCs? Thanks for any input. Cheers.

yes,it will...If its an SG(Pilot) shaft it will....if its a std length threaded crank,it will,you just have to cut the crankshaft..and if its got the short crankshaft your good to go without cutting..


As far as comparing it to other belt cars(you know the tc3 is shaft drive,right?),your gonna have to do a bit of reading..this forum,and others...

but I'll tell you this..I love mine..(and I have HPI's,a trinty reflex(SOLD),a Yokomo(SOLD) and an Impullse)which I would have sold if it wasn't a Christmas gift )

also,you didn't say if it has a pullstart on it..make sure you get theright kit..
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:59 AM   #4716
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Hi there fastharry, my engine is a non-pullstart one. I am considering other factors as well like the availability of parts here in my LHS and the costs of the spares as compared to other makes of nitro TCs. Anyway, thanks for the info. Cheers.
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Old 07-06-2003, 07:25 AM   #4717
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Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
Yep. And that's why I don't use them on any of my cars or trucks. They were all the rage a couple of years ago in the 1/8th scale buggy scene, but people started having wear issues, just like you described above. Personally, I would stay as far away from 'em as possible.

Hows the car runnin',bud?......

still haven't defected?...
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Old 07-06-2003, 07:26 AM   #4718
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Quote:
Originally posted by diesel
Hey guys, i bought this OS .12 CVR engine about 2 years back and never have a chance to use it. I am currently looking to buy the NTC3. Can someone tell me whether this engine fits into the NTC3? How is the NTC3 compared to other belt driven TCs? Thanks for any input. Cheers.
Buy the Pull-Start kit because it comes with the side exhaust header and pipe. You can replace the flywheel and motor mounts to lower the CG, cost is about $20.00 USD.

If you get the non-pull start kit you'll get the rear exhaust header and pipe which means that you'll need a new header and pipe, cost about $50.00 USD.
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Old 07-06-2003, 07:31 AM   #4719
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dust
If you start breaking an engine with 3/4 of a tank of 20% Mugen fuel, is it too late to use odonal fuel? Its a MR-12 turbo.

thanks.
You shouldn't have any problems switching fuel during break in as long as you stay with the same % of nitro. Since you're breaking it in it should be running rich for the first couple tanks and you should be tuning it as you go from tank to tank so you'll end up compensating for any fuel variation anyway.
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Old 07-06-2003, 09:31 PM   #4720
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
Hows the car runnin',bud?......

still haven't defected?...
Bwahaha! Going to switch over to the 1/10 scale O'Donnell glowplug.

Hey, I ran out of O'Donnell 30% and on a whim picked up a gallon of Trinity Platinum Race Blend, 20%.

Like whoa! Once I retuned my engines (TRX 2.5 in the Maxx, REX P5 in the XR), they ran cooler, idled well and had more snap. I really like this stuff. Can't wait to try it in my RTO.
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Old 07-07-2003, 05:48 AM   #4721
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Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
Bwahaha! Going to switch over to the 1/10 scale O'Donnell glowplug.

Hey, I ran out of O'Donnell 30% and on a whim picked up a gallon of Trinity Platinum Race Blend, 20%.

Like whoa! Once I retuned my engines (TRX 2.5 in the Maxx, REX P5 in the XR), they ran cooler, idled well and had more snap. I really like this stuff. Can't wait to try it in my RTO.


You remember how I;ve been harping about Wildcat Fuels(they mix the trinity fuels) for 5 years?.....

Now you know why...

Hows the car running?...
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Old 07-07-2003, 12:39 PM   #4722
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you mentioned on an earlier post about some nut
kyosho makes that you can use on the rear toe links to
stop them from compessing in crashes
exactly what are they just reverse thread nuts or what
if you have the part # again please let me know
thankyou very much
sb
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Old 07-07-2003, 04:14 PM   #4723
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
you mentioned on an earlier post about some nut
kyosho makes that you can use on the rear toe links to
stop them from compessing in crashes
exactly what are they just reverse thread nuts or what
if you have the part # again please let me know
thankyou very much
sb

its not a nut,,just a 3mm collar you butt up against the RPM cup...dubro makes them also,but the Kyoshos are stainless,have a 3mm inside diameter,and are not that big outside diameter..so thet look OK...Plus,they have 2 setscrew holes,not one like Du Bro's.....yuo'll need some 3 mm setscrews also..
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Old 07-07-2003, 05:31 PM   #4724
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What is the thread on the rear toe links - I'm thinking of getting a tap and rethreading a nut to fit. . .
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Old 07-07-2003, 08:36 PM   #4725
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boomer,you don't need to..just put those collars on..trust me,you wont move them..

also,try the Lunsford SD rear toe links(in the turnbuckle kit they sell)..along with the RPM cups from RPM,not the RPM associated ones
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