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Old 06-29-2003, 09:31 AM   #4621
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Default ntc3 shock problem

Has anybody had any trouble with the threaded shocks? I have 1 shock that will not hold its adjustment, the O-ring is still inside the collar and is like new. This has been a problem since day one, I have been using a zip tie to hold my adjustment but would like to get a permenant fix on this. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Love the handling of the NTC3.
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Old 06-29-2003, 10:10 AM   #4622
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Even better. I use 3mm screws on the cases, they hold better because the screw diameter is larger. Try it.
Yes, the 3 mm metric thread has even a smaller pitch.
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:38 AM   #4623
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Default Re: ntc3 shock problem

Quote:
Originally posted by no4hitter
Has anybody had any trouble with the threaded shocks? I have 1 shock that will not hold its adjustment, the O-ring is still inside the collar and is like new. This has been a problem since day one, I have been using a zip tie to hold my adjustment but would like to get a permenant fix on this. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Love the handling of the NTC3.
Use another set of collars to act as locking collars.

You could also use plastic snap-on preload spacers to help hold the adjutment
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Old 06-29-2003, 01:40 PM   #4624
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check your collars for o ring cuts and wear, replace them if u need to, also see if u have way too much oil on the threads, this will loosenm up your settings as well.
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Old 06-29-2003, 03:08 PM   #4625
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
I've seen they'rev are production variables on Associateds parts(and companys for that matter)....

I would shim(or re-shim) as needed...to me,the book is a guide..
Ah well I've run mine hard now, for 3 days in a row putting about 10 tanks through it; they still look like they did when I put the diff gears in. So it seems so far so good Still a nice strong mesh.

I also put small touch of thread lock on the screw that adjusts the ball diff tightness they've held their settings after checking them today.

So far so good! Except I have a small scrape on my pretty blue chassis now bottoming out over a hard bump lol poor chassis! I hate getting your first scratch on the car.
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Old 06-29-2003, 04:53 PM   #4626
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I don't think running hard beraks the gears...

From what I've seen,its the sudden stops..In crashes,against the curb,the boards...the car stops,you're still on the gas,theres no give(or slack like a belt car)...and in the instant you try to stop,you already did the damage..
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:36 PM   #4627
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ahhh I see .. I was under the impression that they stripped from regular use.

Btw, I descided to grab one of the Protoform Stratus 2.0 bodies (never ran one before, everybody has the friggen thing) and it doesn't come with the window outline decals!?

It has all the other decals -headlights grills etc.- but no window outlines? bah what kind of crap is that ... or is it just my body is somehow missing those stickers?
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Old 06-29-2003, 09:36 PM   #4628
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Only the HPI and Tamiya bodies come with framing decals. All the others Protoform, Pro-Line, Frewer, Andy's (Trinity) and the rest do not. Anyway those HPI and tamiya decals were a pain in the a** to apply especially on a racing body where they get scratched off real quick. Painting is more durable and opens up all kinds of design ideas and color schemes.
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Old 06-29-2003, 10:48 PM   #4629
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Ahh okay that would explain it. I've stuck with the HPI bodies, and a couple Yokomo RX-7's.

I'm sure this body will be a better performer, everybody seems to say so anyways
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:25 PM   #4630
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Default Kyosho v1rr shocks on ntc3

A friend of mine sold me at a very low price 4 pcs v1rr threaded shocks and I replaced my plastic shocks on my rtr ntc3. It works fine and you can still use associated springs. It looks cool too.
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Old 06-30-2003, 01:35 AM   #4631
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
So far so good! Except I have a small scrape on my pretty blue chassis now bottoming out over a hard bump lol poor chassis! I hate getting your first scratch on the car.
Me too. That's why I took a file and scraped up the chassis even before I put the car on the road.

ummm, just kidding, although I toyed with the thought - get a scratch early and get it out of my system.
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Old 06-30-2003, 06:19 AM   #4632
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
ahhh I see .. I was under the impression that they stripped from regular use.

Btw, I descided to grab one of the Protoform Stratus 2.0 bodies (never ran one before, everybody has the friggen thing) and it doesn't come with the window outline decals!?

It has all the other decals -headlights grills etc.- but no window outlines? bah what kind of crap is that ... or is it just my body is somehow missing those stickers?

I use pistripe tape to frame the front and rear windows(making the top of the frames wider)....and the section in between the front and rear side window..and use a fine line sharpie pen for the side window frame...


btw,the new stratus 2.1 handles even better...
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Old 06-30-2003, 05:22 PM   #4633
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Yeah I figured as much, but I was in a hurry and my LHS (about 45mins or so away) didn't have the 2.1 in stock so I said screw it and just grabbed a 2.0

Hey, another quick question ... how do you guys get your axle pins out? The black pins are friggen impossible to get out of the hole. Its a paint to even get them centered on the axle, have to sit there with some needle nose pliers for a good 5 minutes strugglign to find just enough pressure to pop the thing halfway through the axle. Tried getting the thing out to check the status of the inside bearing; pina in the butt .. have yet to pop the thing out!
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Old 06-30-2003, 05:26 PM   #4634
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lol boomer :P

might try that .. or instead, just pick up my chassis before I run it and throw it at all the wall then I can get used to how the car handles flying into the wall at the back straight! haha
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Old 06-30-2003, 05:39 PM   #4635
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chorner, we all use needle nose pliers lol, how else do u expect them to stay in there when ur running the car at 50 mph?? lol
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