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Old 06-27-2003, 09:31 PM   #4606
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Even better. I use 3mm screws on the cases, they hold better because the screw diameter is larger. Try it.

Thanks,

Steven Muller
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Old 06-27-2003, 11:47 PM   #4607
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Fastharry,
Left you a lil message at the bottom of p. 154
Just wanted to say 'Hi'!
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Old 06-28-2003, 12:08 AM   #4608
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Quote:
Originally posted by AreCee
No problem . Actually I see more newbies with the fix at my track then seasoned racers. Though I have spotted the K-factory shocktowers on a couple cars, talk about cost ($60+) , those use all four screw positions
I have one car with the Fix and one car with the K Factory and I'd take the Fix as far as durability goes any day. K Factory has a new 6 point mounting tower but they are still like $120 to $140 a set. Looks - K Factory, Effectiveness - the Fix.


Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Cool, thanks for the tip ... I'll have to pick up some take OFF tires then

Btw,

http://www.rchub.com/gfx/media/NTC3m...case01-700.jpg

Take a look at the graphite radio tray. I want something like that
except change the following :

Cut off the ends where it joins right onto the diff cases, and instead have it mount to the top of the chassis braces like the AE graphite, but leave the rest of the shape/design the way it is.

Next, those aluminum posts ... make hole so you can put in the aluminum posts where the stock radio plate touches the chassis plate.

THEN I would be a very happy camper
Yeah, thats the problem with it. I have the K Factory tray like that, man what a pain in the butt for working on the car. You have to take off both bulk heads to get the tray out! The whole set up is nice and stiff though, but I'll take the stock tray any day.
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Old 06-28-2003, 05:56 AM   #4609
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Quote:
Originally posted by TweakRacer
What's up guys?!
How's it goin' Fastharry! Been a long time since I been on any boards... aah, the HPI boards....
Finally started checkin out Sgrid, myTSN, Team Orion, and this forum again.
Glad to see your doin' fine with the ole' NTC3.
I just got a digicam, finally (maybe now I can start sellin' off my collection of cars, still a lil less than half the size of yours... your CAR COLLECTION okay! )... and now to show you how I butchered my poor little NTC3...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=20475
Check it out! Hehehehe!!!
Besides the occasional runs of whichever of my MRX-3's happens to be runnin' at the time... I been playin' with this monster around my house! Actually with that huge pinion and the foams (in the pictures), it ran okay at Revelation Raceway. But with other ideas in the works... well... I'll keep ya updated. TTYL






Got it now...good to talk to you also......

yep,stiil running those tc3 nitros......that has to the best car Ive ever driven..and own...I gave the HPI SS a shot..that is an Ill handling piece of crap as far as I'm concerned...Hopefully the new R40 is decent..HPI needs a shot in the arm in the car dept..


NO ONE by us,not even NEWBIES,buy their cars anymore......

for me to get any new car(esp the HPI)..it will have to beat me on the track..and offer the ease of maintance the tc3 does...

BTW,I hear Yoke is working on a shaft nitro car..

And I bet you'll see Mugen with one also..
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Old 06-28-2003, 06:22 AM   #4610
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Btw, have the new white delrin diff gears solved the stripping problem with hi-power engines, anybody have experience with them? Thankfully they were in my kit ... hope they hold up for a while.
Yes; the combo of new cases with the longer screws plus the white gears seems to have solved my gear stripping problems. Another guy experienced the the exact same problem as I did at the last MWS race though. He went thru 6 gear boxes. All gray gears, even after putting on new gear cases and using the longer 4-40 screws. My theory now is that they had a bad run of the gray plastic gears. Injection molded plastics are very sensitive to things like humidity when they are produced; it can change heat resistance and strength a lot. It's also kinda convenient that the 'new' gears are white so you know you have a good gear, there was no way of knowing with the old gray ones. I even had a number of hard hits that didn't hurt the white gears, like when someone spins right in front of you and you don't have time to stop! Those are the worst; one car is going nowhere and the other is damn near full speed.
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:25 AM   #4611
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Talking Heya!

Hey Fastharry,

Good to hear from you again! Man, I thought you were doin' great with the SS on the smaller tracks?! Oh well, glad you got HPI outta your blood.... Yeah, the R40? You mean the Hot Bodies Tornado/GS Vision? Hahahaha! About Time! And to think if they woulda just released it five years ago, HPI woulda kicked Bill Gate's butt! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

BTW, is the rumored Yokomo going to be based on their MR-4TC SD electric car? If so it should be pretty nice, as that electric is like the uber-version of a TC3 but with MR-4TC arms. Mugen too? Wow!

Hmmmm... I'll just keep runnin' my MRX's (that's their 8th scaler, so put down the pistol okay? ), and tryin' to make my brushless motor powered NTC3 (see link from previous post) as fast as it was with the methanol heart; heck, if that works out, maybe I'll try one of those 12-cell brushless motors in a modified MRX-3.... Still grumpy about nitro from recently replacing conrods in my RB C4 and C5, a $130 one-piece 086 pipe, and completely blowing-up a C3 Collari Modified RB (the wrist pin failed, then...)!

Oh yeah, nice icon! Still running your Dahminator Parma body? You must be happy with the recent ROAR ruling for 200mm open cars huh?

TTYL, Happy Runnings!
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:16 PM   #4612
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Maybe someone can help me with this issue I had today with my car. This weekend we are running a 2 day race so today was qualifying. My car ran pretty good during practice but it wouldn't shift into second so I changed the clutch and springs that solved the problem.

But another issue came up my car would run fine then all of a sudden it would just rev I would give it gas but it wouldn't move. Finally something would kick in and it would go but this kept happening all day. I wasn't able to make any qualifier. Anyone ever hear of this problem and do you know how to solve this. I am stumped I tried everything from replacing the 2 speed shoes, the clutch and springs and adjusting the diffs and when I give it gas it just sits there and revs.
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:28 PM   #4613
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This is just a guess out of thin air, but is your two speed bearing shot? If everything is spinning but you aren't going anywhere, that would be my guess. Also, check to see if the inside of your clutch bell is glazed over. The shoes may be just spinning inside the bell and not grabbing.
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:52 PM   #4614
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Quote:
Originally posted by Number 11
Maybe someone can help me with this issue I had today with my car. This weekend we are running a 2 day race so today was qualifying. My car ran pretty good during practice but it wouldn't shift into second so I changed the clutch and springs that solved the problem.

But another issue came up my car would run fine then all of a sudden it would just rev I would give it gas but it wouldn't move. Finally something would kick in and it would go but this kept happening all day. I wasn't able to make any qualifier. Anyone ever hear of this problem and do you know how to solve this. I am stumped I tried everything from replacing the 2 speed shoes, the clutch and springs and adjusting the diffs and when I give it gas it just sits there and revs.

2 sp one way...my first guess..does the car make a dropped in gear(KLUNK) when you hit the gas(while your holding it) and then hit the brakes?.....2 sp one way..
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:06 PM   #4615
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Clean out that two-speed one-way with motor spray and relube with AE silicone diff lube and see if that helps.

DO NOT re-lube with a slippery grease like "Ronnie" grease or bearing grease or oil because theyr'e too slippery and will not allow the rollers to "lock".
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:53 PM   #4616
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
2 sp one way...my first guess..does the car make a dropped in gear(KLUNK) when you hit the gas(while your holding it) and then hit the brakes?.....2 sp one way..
That's it. That is exactly what it does. I am ordering all new parts and spares so I have plenty of stuff available. Thanks
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:55 PM   #4617
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
Yes; the combo of new cases with the longer screws plus the white gears seems to have solved my gear stripping problems. Another guy experienced the the exact same problem as I did at the last MWS race though. He went thru 6 gear boxes. All gray gears, even after putting on new gear cases and using the longer 4-40 screws.
Ah, but did he shim the diffs properly? I kept stripping out diff gears, even the white ones, before I reshimmed them. I placed two shim on ONE side so that the ring and pinion mesh were a little on the tight side. I ran an entire day and when I tore the car down for mainenence the diffs were fine. This was with the molded gray gears, mind.
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:58 PM   #4618
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shim it so the gears are tight, this is nitro not elec, u dont need super free rolling, u need to be able to run your car for awhile with tons of power lol. endurance and stamina of parts if u will.
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Old 06-28-2003, 10:25 PM   #4619
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haha yeah I shimmed them properly.

It says in the manual to place two shims there -on the one side-, and one behind the 2nd bearing.
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Old 06-29-2003, 07:38 AM   #4620
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I've seen they'rev are production variables on Associateds parts(and companys for that matter)....

I would shim(or re-shim) as needed...to me,the book is a guide..
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