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Old 06-26-2003, 12:56 AM   #4561
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I heard rumors there is an ft ntc3 coming.
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Old 06-26-2003, 07:38 AM   #4562
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Hey guys, is it just me or is this graphite radio tray a POS?

I'm wondering wether I should just keep the stock plate or not.

The stock plate holds the flat pack better, seems to be stiffer and also has a rec switch harness location. The graphite deck has neither of those things; although the only benefit to that is that it looks better to me.

What do you guys think?

Man did AE cheap out on alot of shit ... and the screws suck, 2 of them gone using Hudy tools, and grease on them .. still stripped. Whats with the cheap plastic nuts that hold the shocks on the shock tower? lol what a joke. The rest of the kit seems solid though, but damn does it look like a cheap POS compared to my MTX-3.
Thank you for your insight and misuse of Hudy tools. Have a nice day on the MTX-3 thread.
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Old 06-26-2003, 07:54 AM   #4563
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Quote:
Originally posted by sook
Thank you for your insight and misuse of Hudy tools. Have a nice day on the MTX-3 thread.
LMAO!
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:15 AM   #4564
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BTW,since they've used the POS shock nuts through THOUSANDS of kits(GT's,buggys,trucks,ETC).....and no one has a problem,and they've WON more championships then MUGEN,I'd say,at first
glance,you just might be using a tad too much pressure...try using the tool taht came with the car,and tighten till snug..
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Old 06-26-2003, 09:11 AM   #4565
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Default nuts and tray

while i agree about the radio tray for the most part it is just for looks and it does look good but the function is not as good as
stock , but i gotta agree with fastharry it sounds like your nuts
are in a bind
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Old 06-26-2003, 10:02 AM   #4566
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Hey guys, is it just me or is this graphite radio tray a POS?

I'm wondering wether I should just keep the stock plate or not.

The stock plate holds the flat pack better, seems to be stiffer and also has a rec switch harness location. The graphite deck has neither of those things; although the only benefit to that is that it looks better to me.

What do you guys think?

I think the graphite radio tray is a nice upgrade. It is stiffer, looks better and uses two less screws to attach so its easier to take off. The switch goes in the same place on the graphite tray as the regular tray, its just that the cut outs are angled. Once you put the switch on, it stays put. As for the battery, I don't notice any difference between the stock and graphite tray. I used a couple pieces of small foam on the zip tie and it holds the battery in perfectly. And your right, it looks a whole lot better. The NTC3 is butt ugly and needs some graphite just to make it look like the racer it is! lol.
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Old 06-26-2003, 11:10 AM   #4567
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First off, why the h*ll are most of you AE 'loyal fans' so friggen stuck up?

Get a life.

Some of the parts are very cheap on the kit. Misuse of Hudy tools? How would you misuse it, try and shove the handle into the slot instead of the allen head? You're a moron. Alot of the allen slots on the screw heads, are way off center with the included screws. Oh, but its me and my lack of Hudy tool knowledge <cough> idiot<cough>

It looks like a cheap junker, but gets the job done very nicely ...
cheap as heck looking though. If they would have used the same sized screws as the ones that hold the front and rear bumper plates on, for all the screws on the bottom of the chassis it would be MUCH MUCH better. You don't see any other top kit manufacturer using those tiny allen heads on any part of the kit, with exception to the lock jams.

Anyways, the only one who had a decent answer was Haunted. Thanks dude.

Also, my tray (pt#1722) does not have a location to mount the switch. Yes the cutout are on an angle, but there are no screw holes to mount it, nor an area for the switch to stick through. Perhaps I'll just drill it to the top of th erec box lid?
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Old 06-26-2003, 11:45 AM   #4568
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I think you are getting static because you are on a Nitro TC3 post bashing it. You are entitled to your opinion but remember where you are...I am sure if you posted it in a MTX3 forum people would agree. Post what you want but dont expect a warm reception in a biased topic entitled NTC3. Good thing looks dont win races.
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Old 06-26-2003, 11:54 AM   #4569
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Chorner,
Who looks more like a moron or an idiot coming onto a thread cursing at the car of choice for the thread? How many of us on this thread actually put down the ae nitro tc3? How many of us here go onto the MTX-3 thread and bash the car of their choice? I believe that most of us have more constructive things to say about the ntc3 and help others to improve the car for durability and performance.

Anyone else on this thread disagree with me besides Chorner?
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Old 06-26-2003, 01:05 PM   #4570
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Damn I haven't been here for a while and I see nothing is different. People still like to pull punches. Anyway whats the big problem with the NTC-3 now?
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Old 06-26-2003, 01:16 PM   #4571
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
First off, why the h*ll are most of you AE 'loyal fans' so friggen stuck up?

Get a life.

Some of the parts are very cheap on the kit. Misuse of Hudy tools? How would you misuse it, try and shove the handle into the slot instead of the allen head? You're a moron. Alot of the allen slots on the screw heads, are way off center with the included screws. Oh, but its me and my lack of Hudy tool knowledge <cough> idiot<cough>

It looks like a cheap junker, but gets the job done very nicely ...
cheap as heck looking though. If they would have used the same sized screws as the ones that hold the front and rear bumper plates on, for all the screws on the bottom of the chassis it would be MUCH MUCH better. You don't see any other top kit manufacturer using those tiny allen heads on any part of the kit, with exception to the lock jams.

Anyways, the only one who had a decent answer was Haunted. Thanks dude.

Also, my tray (pt#1722) does not have a location to mount the switch. Yes the cutout are on an angle, but there are no screw holes to mount it, nor an area for the switch to stick through. Perhaps I'll just drill it to the top of th erec box lid?
I don't think we are any more or less stuck up than Mugen/Serpent/Yok fans, but hey, what the heck!

I actually think the NTC-3 looks better than the typical double-deck cars - less wires straggling around zip tied and with a condom wrapped receiver. Personally, I hate that aspect of the typical cars.

One other thing that I really like over, for instance, the Yok and some other cars I've seen - too many cars use Phillip head screws for the chassis rather than ALLEN. Nothing against Phil, but AL works tons beter!

The difference in size did puzzle me. You would think that a structural screw (say, DIFF case mounting screw) would be a larger guage screw, and thus a larger driver size, than would a bumper mount. I didn't have any problems getting them in, though, and didn't notice any wierd qual control problems with the screws in my kits.

I think our reaction to you was a result of a LOT of Kyosho/Mugen/Serpent/Yok fans trolling on here with attacking comments - yours identified you as a Mugen driver and your comments could be construed as critical, therefore we may have lumped you with the others. If this was incorrect, sorry, but that's what I saw.
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Old 06-26-2003, 03:17 PM   #4572
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
First off, why the h*ll are most of you AE 'loyal fans' so friggen stuck up?

Get a life.
Tell us how you really feel...j/k

Boomer, I will have to agree with him on the hex/allen screws. they suck. don't get me wrong, i think they are way better than phillips in regards to durability and quality, but screwing those things in are a pain. When i was building my kit i had about 3 or 4 screws that once they went in about halfway they wouldn't go in any further using the wrench that came with the kit. So i used my father in laws set that he had. then i went out and bought a husky set from home depot. they work better, but sometimes i swear those screws have a mind of thier own . But i will say, the screws have never come off or lossened while driving. I love my ntc3 and dont plan on using anything else for the moment, but the only thing i didnt like was screwing in those hex screws.

On another note,
kreidel, hows the job market in melbourne? I gotta get the heck outta miami. I'm ready to start shooting...LOL! Any races happening this weekend up your way?
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Old 06-26-2003, 03:40 PM   #4573
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
First off, why the h*ll are most of you AE 'loyal fans' so friggen stuck up?

Get a life.

Some of the parts are very cheap on the kit. Misuse of Hudy tools? How would you misuse it, try and shove the handle into the slot instead of the allen head? You're a moron. Alot of the allen slots on the screw heads, are way off center with the included screws. Oh, but its me and my lack of Hudy tool knowledge <cough> idiot<cough>

It looks like a cheap junker, but gets the job done very nicely ...
cheap as heck looking though. If they would have used the same sized screws as the ones that hold the front and rear bumper plates on, for all the screws on the bottom of the chassis it would be MUCH MUCH better. You don't see any other top kit manufacturer using those tiny allen heads on any part of the kit, with exception to the lock jams.

Anyways, the only one who had a decent answer was Haunted. Thanks dude.

Also, my tray (pt#1722) does not have a location to mount the switch. Yes the cutout are on an angle, but there are no screw holes to mount it, nor an area for the switch to stick through. Perhaps I'll just drill it to the top of th erec box lid?
4




Mount the switch like this...


Attached Images
File Type: jpg switch 1.jpg (127.3 KB, 156 views)
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Last edited by fastharry™; 06-26-2003 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 06-26-2003, 07:01 PM   #4574
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Hi guy.


just bought my ntc3 .Im planning to get the fix can someone direct me where to get some do you buy by set and how many in the set.thanks in advance..
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Old 06-26-2003, 08:36 PM   #4575
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Quote:
Originally posted by LakasTama
Hi guy.


just bought my ntc3 .Im planning to get the fix can someone direct me where to get some do you buy by set and how many in the set.thanks in advance..


E mail Jim reeves at this adress..

[email protected]



he'll give you the details..


theres 1 set to a package..so you need 2 packs....front and back..

if you want to see it..go to Ebay and type in the search..."the fix
tc3"..
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