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Old 06-24-2003, 11:09 AM   #4546
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Default mill choice

sook
yes i am leaning towards the pixy i too have seen them run
really well down here in the florida heat, and still stay in a
low temp range, i was considering the sirio cause somewhere
i think i saw it was rated at 1.7 or 1.8 hp,which seems really high
for a legal .12 and the motor is a bit cheaper than the pixy but
when it comes down to less than a $50 difference i guess i
should choose the most reliable easy to tune one. still not
completely decided yet but thankyou for your insight
have a great day
sb
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:31 AM   #4547
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedydave
I've got a SE NTC3 kit, which is currently bone-stock, except for The Fix, front and rear. Excluding engine/pipe/manifold, what hopups would you recommend(and why?) for this thing? I'd like to spend less than $100 on all the hopups(I'm not even sure how much everything I'll need is, or how much I really need). I don't think I'll be needing a one-way(unless thomas can kick in some tips in this area). Thanks!
AreCee gave what are probably the most important hopups - TheFix, the Blade sway bar for the front and normal for the rear, RPM ball cups all around (except for at the steering servo - it rubs badly).

I would add two things - first get Lunsford tie rods, at least for the rear toe links. One of the first things that happened to me was getting nerfed and having one bend. I still finished in first but every time I nailed the throttle the car wanted to pitch sideways. . .they're good investments.

The other thing would be an Assoc. Spring Set - it's like $25-35 or so and you get a pair of every spring. it's SO friggin nice to have all of them - you want to stiffen up your rear a notch. . .don't have to worry whether you have the spring or not, just reach into your box! WooHOOO!

I don't know if they've changed the steering rack servo saver spring yet, but if they haven't - you are going to want to pick up the one from the RC10GT truck's slipper clutch and replace it. It's all of $2.50.

Enjoy!
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:45 AM   #4548
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Thanks so far! Like I said, I've already got The Fix F/R, and I forgot to mention that I picked up the GT spring(I have an older kit..I guess it was sitting around on the shelf for a while). Part No. 6587, right? Also, I'm planning on buying the new tank, since I got an older style one. How big of a problem is the tank breaking problem? I know of a few people who make the side brace for the NTC3 now, was curious how worth-it it is. Thanks again!
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:50 AM   #4549
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
RPM ball cups all around (except for at the steering servo - it rubs badly).

I would add two things - first get Lunsford tie rods, at least for the rear toe links.

The other thing would be an Assoc. Spring Set - it's like $25-35 or so and you get a pair of every spring. it's SO friggin nice to have all of them - you want to stiffen up your rear a notch. . .don't have to worry whether you have the spring or not, just reach into your box! WooHOOO!

Good catch Boomer. You need to trim the ball cup length to work on the servo saver and Dremel a small relief to clear the drive shaft.

If you can't find the Lunsford for the rear you can get the AE Factory Team titanium rear tie rods. Be careful because unless the rod is thicker than the steel rod it will bend also. Ti is only stronger than steel when you use more of it (larger diameter rod).
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:54 AM   #4550
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedydave
Thanks so far! Like I said, I've already got The Fix F/R, and I forgot to mention that I picked up the GT spring(I have an older kit..I guess it was sitting around on the shelf for a while). Part No. 6587, right? Also, I'm planning on buying the new tank, since I got an older style one. How big of a problem is the tank breaking problem? I know of a few people who make the side brace for the NTC3 now, was curious how worth-it it is. Thanks again!
The tank breaking issue exists with the new tank also. If you have a rear exhaust the pipe can smash into the side of the tank when you get T-Boned real hard on the left side. This doesn't happen with the side exhaust because of the mounting location difference. (The SE extends more to the front of the car whereas the RE pipe's mounting wire extends back by the tank so the pipe pivots into the tank and breaks it.)
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Old 06-24-2003, 04:05 PM   #4551
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Na Harry you guys are right the K tanks leans big time!!! I may have pushed the issue saying it leaned at the 1/4 tank level. But for sure it leans bad the last 1/8th!!!!! O'rings did'nt help me
Also how you guys getting the the carb feed line from rubbing the RD pipe or Ae pipe as far as that goes. Mine has left a burnt mark on the line but it does'nt seem to effect it.
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Old 06-24-2003, 04:13 PM   #4552
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Has anyone tried moving the tank more towards the center to solve the problem of it breaking?
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Old 06-24-2003, 10:53 PM   #4553
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Na Harry you guys are right the K tanks leans big time!!! I may have pushed the issue saying it leaned at the 1/4 tank level. But for sure it leans bad the last 1/8th!!!!! O'rings did'nt help me
Also how you guys getting the the carb feed line from rubbing the RD pipe or Ae pipe as far as that goes. Mine has left a burnt mark on the line but it does'nt seem to effect it.
well,heres another issue..


My brand new K factory tank is leaking out of the seam...

And I have the side brace...so it didn't take a hit..nice toiuch for 50 dollars...
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Old 06-25-2003, 03:00 AM   #4554
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Default HERE'S MY TANK FIX!

Parts and stuff you need:

3/64 in.(give or take) sheet Lexan or similar sheet plastic(Plano parts box type plastic works best )

3 ea. 4-40 X 1/4 flathead screw

3 ea. 4-40 X 1/4 buttonhead screw

3 ea. Associated 4-40 small plain nuts

6 ea. shock O-rings

1/8 drill bit

1/4 drill bit

Countersinking bit

Loctite

Sharpie permanent marker

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Instructions:

1. Cut out a 2-1/4 X 1-3/4 piece of Lexan/sheet plastic.

2. Carefully place the plastic plate under the front of the fuel tank and mark the three screw holes with the Sharpie. Drill out the marks with the 1/8 drill bit.

3. Place the plastic plate on the fuel tank area of the chassis BUT reverse the mounting holes in relation to the existing tank mounting holes in the chassis(i.e. one hole in front, two in the rear). Try to center the holes the best you can. Mark the new holes to the chassis and drill the marks on the chassis with a 1/8 drill bit. Countersink the new holes on the underside of the chassis.

4. Temporaily mount the plastic plate on the chassis' new holes using the flathead screws and plain nuts and mark the plate with the sharpie to indicate the front. Mark the old tank mount holes on the plastic plate from the underside of the chassis using the Sharpie. Unmount the plastic plate and drill out marks with 1/8 drill bit.

5. Drill out the old tank mounting holes with the 1/4 drill bit. These will now be the access holes to access the screw holes in the plastic plate mount.

6. Mount the plastic plate to the chassis(notice which way faces front) to the new holes using the 4-40 X 1/4 flathead screws, plain nuts and 3 O-rings. Sandwich the O-rings as you would when mounting the tank. Use Loctite on the plain nuts.

7. From the underside of the chassis, install the three 4-40 X 1/4 buttonhead through the new access holes in the chassis and into the new tank mount holes in the plastic plate. Install the O-rings and mount the tank to the plastic plate.

There you have it!

This is essentially a tank soft mounted to a plate which is in turn semi-soft mounted to the chassis.

This "Fix" reduces the amount of vibration transfered to the fuel tank and the new mount "gives" in the event of a driver's side T-bone hit therefore reducing the chance of a broken or "split" tank.

You can play with the "softness" of the plastic plate by drilling holes or trimming it in strategic areas and/or using different thicknesses of plastic sheet.

You also can use more O-rings to soften the mount or to raise the front of the tank.

NOTICE: This may not eliminate the "leaning out" condition when tank is 1/8-1/4 full.

This "Fix" works with the stock chassis. I don't know if it works on some aftermarket chassis because some have lightening holes under the fuel tank area.

Hope this "Fix" works for you!
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Last edited by FREAKAH; 06-25-2003 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 06-25-2003, 03:00 PM   #4555
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sweet

Hey, quick question .. I grabbed the graphite radio tray and I'm wondering ... did I need to buy any extra parts to mount the graphite radio tray? It seem to have alot of flex in the middle, and the origional radio tray was screwed down through the bottom of the chassis as well.

Did I need to buy some aluminum standoffs or something? The holes don't seem to lign up with the origional holes on the stock chassis either that would hint that I need to buy some stand offs :S confused!
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Old 06-25-2003, 03:59 PM   #4556
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If its the AE graphite upperdeck you dont need any stand offs it dosnt connect to the chassi all its needs are the 4 screws. Mine dosnt seem to have any flex at all.
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Old 06-25-2003, 09:54 PM   #4557
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Gee thanks Harry, glad to know I have something else to look foward to with the tank. I have read of this problem with other people somewhere? Maybe drop this guy an email, maybe he can help you or tell you who can. www.teammagic.comtw ATTN: NICK KO
Did you contact Trinity? lol
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Old 06-25-2003, 09:57 PM   #4558
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No flex with graphite deck and stock chassis? hmmmmmmm!
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Old 06-25-2003, 10:50 PM   #4559
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Any word if there will be a Factory Team Nitro TC3?
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Old 06-26-2003, 12:28 AM   #4560
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Hey guys, is it just me or is this graphite radio tray a POS?

I'm wondering wether I should just keep the stock plate or not.

The stock plate holds the flat pack better, seems to be stiffer and also has a rec switch harness location. The graphite deck has neither of those things; although the only benefit to that is that it looks better to me.

What do you guys think?

Man did AE cheap out on alot of shit ... and the screws suck, 2 of them gone using Hudy tools, and grease on them .. still stripped. Whats with the cheap plastic nuts that hold the shocks on the shock tower? lol what a joke. The rest of the kit seems solid though, but damn does it look like a cheap POS compared to my MTX-3.
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