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Old 06-23-2003, 09:49 PM   #4531
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The Serpent clutch works great. The care launched so hard, I had a hard time keeping it straight. Its the first time I saw an RC spins its rear wheels on take off! (and I was using Ellegi 40 foams, how to get more traction?).

Unfortunately, the slightest tap on the boards and I snapped a lower front a-arm. Its uncanny that the NTC3 can survive heavier crashes from other cars etc. and then something that feels/looks like a slight tap on the boards would break some parts.
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Old 06-23-2003, 09:55 PM   #4532
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run thet past me again...which clutch from Serpent are you using?....and how do you adapt it?..Thanks..
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Old 06-23-2003, 09:58 PM   #4533
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fastharry

See my response to your question?

-Puma
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Old 06-23-2003, 09:59 PM   #4534
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yes....I'll resrve judgement till you change that belt..

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Old 06-23-2003, 10:06 PM   #4535
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
run thet past me again...which clutch from Serpent are you using?....and how do you adapt it?..Thanks..
I used the clutch shoes from the old Serpent Impulse, you know, the black composite ones. I had to shave off some materials at the tip to widen the spacing a bit and the Trinity Reflex clutchnut was the only one that would tighten all the way down on the stock AE PS flywheel. If you try to fit the Impulse clutch nut, it would not tighten all the way down. You can also use the PS AE clutchnut, but you need to dremel off some material to hold the springs. Use the harder gold springs as the stock black springs makes it engage too early (for my engine, at least).
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:10 PM   #4536
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Does anyone know where I can find the thrust bearings for the K Factory centax clutch that are in stock?
I think you can use the new thrust bearings from the Serpent Centax II clutch or the thrust bearings from the Mugen Centax. They fit fine. I think they measure up as 5 x 10 x 4 (inner x outer x thickness). Else you should be able to find them at a bearing shop.
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:18 PM   #4537
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I've got a SE NTC3 kit, which is currently bone-stock, except for The Fix, front and rear. Excluding engine/pipe/manifold, what hopups would you recommend(and why?) for this thing? I'd like to spend less than $100 on all the hopups(I'm not even sure how much everything I'll need is, or how much I really need). I don't think I'll be needing a one-way(unless thomas can kick in some tips in this area). Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:31 PM   #4538
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Default Threaded Shocks

I have a ntc3 rtr and I want to change my shocks to a threaded one. Mr Friend is selling his threaded shocks from his v1r, will it fit in the ntc3?
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Old 06-24-2003, 04:45 AM   #4539
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just buy the AE threaded shock kit. It's only 40 dollars for a set of four with everything you need in the package. Worth the money to save the hassle.

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Old 06-24-2003, 06:43 AM   #4540
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedydave
I've got a SE NTC3 kit, which is currently bone-stock, except for The Fix, front and rear. Excluding engine/pipe/manifold, what hopups would you recommend(and why?) for this thing? I'd like to spend less than $100 on all the hopups(I'm not even sure how much everything I'll need is, or how much I really need). I don't think I'll be needing a one-way(unless thomas can kick in some tips in this area). Thanks!
You really don't need many hop ups but these are useful:
steering bearings, rpm ball cups, front and rear sway bars and alloy wheel hex drives. That's about $65 and spend the rest on tires.

That's about it, the rest isn't really needed but looks good. The woven radio plate may help stiffen the chassis. Best thing is to replace the worn out part with the hop up part. Problem is that most alloy hop ups weigh more than the parts they replace. If you need to trim more weight off then get the carbon chassis parts to save about an ounce.
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Old 06-24-2003, 07:25 AM   #4541
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can someone give me a link to the rpm ball cups for the steering servo/swing mount and the front wheels/ A Arms? I found some on tower, but i dont know what size i need for the steering and wheels. I already have RPM ball cups for the rear. But the ones on my front keep popping off when i try to set the toe out.
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Old 06-24-2003, 07:33 AM   #4542
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Yokomo one way or Associated one way....

Quote:
Originally posted by Isaac
The Associated one way or the Yokomo one way. I would like to get the Yokomo piece as I hear is better quality. Has Associated improved their one way piece? I came in 2nd place in a 15 minute main and the reason is corner speed. This was with a bone stock TC3 except for springs. The car ahead of me...MTX3. It's beatable though. Stock clutch! No slip and I had motor!
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Old 06-24-2003, 09:09 AM   #4543
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Default which motor

i am thinking of getting another rear exhaust motor
i would like one that is easy to tune and holds the tune
also looking for something that has alot of power that
can last for several gallons without a new piston and sleeve
after every gallon. and i probably need it to be a legal motor
i was looking at the sirio .12 and the pixy .12 what are the
opinions out there thankyou, and on a side note i read on here
somewhere recently about the kfactory tank leaning out at the
end of run, is this a consensus , and would it help to put
some fuel tubing slices under the front to tilt it a little better
for easier fuel draw
any info or pointers greatly appreciated
sb
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Old 06-24-2003, 09:16 AM   #4544
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Sbmon,
between the two engines of your choice, I would choose the pixy .12. I have seen those ran in the ntc3 around our tracks and they are very powerful engines in these cars. Good choices.
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Old 06-24-2003, 09:43 AM   #4545
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thefuzz
I have 2 NEW sets of Hot Bodies threaded shocks I am not using.
Silver or Blue $35.00 each shipped.
Hot Bodies parts 24012 & 24011
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