R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-13-2003, 08:58 PM   #4441
Registered User
 
OB42TC3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 417
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry

hey,see my message above...Cliff Lett has some more ideas for the nitro tc3....
Like remove the PS hole on the chassis? split the gearbox vertically instead of horizontal?
OB42TC3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2003, 04:53 AM   #4442
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

don't know....just that he has ideas...


my whole point was that Associated will cointinue to work on this car...
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2003, 01:59 PM   #4443
Tech Elite
 
highwayman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,334
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
h man..you see a big difference with adjusting the diffs?
coupled with the right suspension set-up, yes, it makes a difference... (even the slightest gains for me help)

maybe it's just the way i drive, 'cause i like the car to be forgiving for the long mains...
highwayman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2003, 09:55 AM   #4444
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: JB, Malaysia
Posts: 259
Default

Has anyone tried the THS 2-chamber rear exaust pipe for the NTC3? It looks way cool-er than the AE 2-chamber black RE pipe.

Whats the best way to get more on-power steering for the NTC3?

Just for the fun of it....I'm trying out 30mm foam tires up front.

We'll see how it goes.
Morpheus2be is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2003, 09:56 AM   #4445
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Morpheus2be
Has anyone tried the THS 2-chamber rear exaust pipe for the NTC3? It looks way cool-er than the AE 2-chamber black RE pipe.

Whats the best way to get more on-power steering for the NTC3?

Just for the fun of it....I'm trying out 30mm foam tires up front.

We'll see how it goes.
run the solid axle..
__________________
www.fastharry.com---search "fastharry" on facebook
See Fastharry in Super Nitro racing at the HPI CHALLENGE...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzo-cBEnE0c
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2003, 09:37 PM   #4446
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 147
Default

A locked front diff will give you a bit more on power steering, but will take away off power steering. Personally, I don't like the locked front diff. It makes other parts break, especially the CVDs. What I do is run the front diff noticably tighter than the rear diff. This will still give you more on power steering, and the front diff will still be able to slip in a wreck. That will keep parts from breaking.

If you are really interested in tuning your chassis for the best possible handling, you need to buy XXX Main Touring Car Chassis Setup Guide. It's US$20, and it is worth every penny. The knowledge gained from reading that book has taken my game to a new level. I gained more than 3 laps at every track I race at simply by reading that book and applying what I learned. It is the best money I have ever spent, and the knowledge applies to every touring car.

Here is a link to the book:
http://www.xxxmain.com/bookz.shtml
Shiloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2003, 09:39 PM   #4447
Moderator
 
StephenSobottka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 3,267
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to StephenSobottka
Default

A 1/4 turn loosening or tightening of a diff will make a difference. I run my front one tighter than my rear for more on power steering.
__________________
~~Stephen Sobottka~~
SMC Racing
StephenSobottka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2003, 09:57 PM   #4448
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: JB, Malaysia
Posts: 259
Default

I put on 6x 5grams wheel balancing weights on the front bumper to keep the front wheels on the ground and it helps a bit but the car is heavier now. The guys at the tracks were laughing since anyone serious about performance will try to reduce the car's weight. I'll try tightening the front diffs. I swapped the springs around for softer front but the rear would spin out. I'm sure its not for lack of traction as the car turns well off power, but on power, it just wants to straighten out. I'm using Hitec 645MG for steering, but I think I'll need a faster servo, instead of a strong torque servo.

thanks guys
Morpheus2be is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2003, 10:00 PM   #4449
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 147
Default

This is a basic setup I use on every touring car. Then I adjust based on how the car feels on the track.

For outdoor racing, pick a spring rate between 20 & 30 lbs. For indoor carpet racing, pick a spring rate between 25 & 35 lbs.
For the NTC3, I grabbed copper springs for the front and back. As a starting point, I always try running the same spring rate front and back.

In the shocks, I run 45 wt oil. I usually like a bit more pack in the front, so I run #3 pistons in the front and #2 pistons in the back. If you only have #2 pistons, try running 60 wt in the front and 40 wt in the rear.

Attach the shocks to the outer hole on the lower arm and the inner most hole on the shock tower. This will lay the shocks down quite a bit, which helps smooth out the car a lot on asphalt. For carpet racing, I usually stand the shocks up as much as possible, since it tends to make the car react more quickly to steering inputs.

For foam tires on asphalt, I would use the Jaco 40 shore Nitro Shoes. For carpet racing, try purple rears and plaid fronts.

For most asphalt lots, I set the front and rear ride height to 5mm. If the asphalt is sealed or if VHT has been sprayed down, set the front and rear ride height to 4mm.

Once I have the ride height set, I set the uplift. Uplift is a way of setting droop that works no matter what the tire diameter is. Uplift is found by subtracting the ride height at rest from the ride height when the tires are about the leave the ground. You want 2mm of uplift in the front and back of the car. So if you hold the tires on the ground and lift the chassis, your ride height needs to be 7mm. This way 7mm minus 5mm will leave you with 2mm of uplift. The only time I ever use an actual droop gauge is to double check the droop left to right, just to make sure left and right are the same. The droop settings you see on most setup sheets are only valuable if you know the tire diameter and ride height, so you cannot actually use the droop gauge to set the droop.

Then I set the car up on the hudy gauges. I set -1 camber in the front and -2 camber in the back. I always set camber first, because camber changes will usually cause toe changes due to the way the suspension is set up. Once I have the camber set, I set the toe. In the rear, I usually try 2 toe in. In the front, I usually try 1 toe out. This of course is just a starting point. On really loose traction, I sometimes go with 3 toe-in in the rear.

Once I have the camber and toe set, I move on to tweaking the car. I put the tires back on and sit the car on the mip tweak station. I put the front of the car on the bubble balance end. I slide a block under the back of the car, so the rear tires do not touch. This lets me set the front shocks independantly of the rest of the suspension. This is critical for off power tweak. Once the bubble is dead on, I pull the rear block without moving the car. Then I adjust the rear shocks to get the bubble dead on. This sets the on power tweak.

Now the car should be ready to rock.

Depending on what the car is doing, I will adjust droop and/or ride height front or rear. For example, if the car pushes a little on power, I might switch the front uplift to 1-1.5mm instead of 2mm. If handling is way off, I may even play around with spring rates. This setup should be a good starting point for every touring car.

The other important thing on the NTC3 is drag break. I use so much drag break that the NTC3 feels like a triple belt car when I let off the throttle. That helps the car throw weight forward so I can get it to turn into the corners. Without the drag break, I found myself either breaking too much or not enough. The drag break, when set properly, gives me a nice consistent amount of speed reduction when I enter a corner.
Shiloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 04:28 AM   #4450
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada.
Posts: 484
Default

The only problem with drag brake is that acceleration is delayed out of corners. If you want to go fast, learn how to drive without it.
rcpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 07:40 AM   #4451
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: JB, Malaysia
Posts: 259
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rcpilot
The only problem with drag brake is that acceleration is delayed out of corners. If you want to go fast, learn how to drive without it.
Thats my take on drag braking too... I feel its too much like the belt driven cars. I remember with my Impulse, the goal was always to free up the drivetrain as much as possible to go faster.

Maybe the NTC3 drivetrain is too much of a good thing ...but, I agree. The more time spent driving the NTC3, the easier it gets. In fact, I think the NTC3 brakes are too good. Its easy to lock the wheels up which makes the car loose even more traction. ABS would work wonders for this car but I read somewhere that its not good for the servos. Any other feedback/2nd opinions?
Morpheus2be is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 08:20 AM   #4452
Tech Regular
 
Old Skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 342
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
h man..you see a big difference with adjusting the diffs?
Speaking of diffs...I reshimmed mine, placing two shims on one side instead of one on either side of the bearing. Ran all day and checked afterwards. No more stripping.
Old Skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 08:47 AM   #4453
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 147
Default

rcpilot: Actually, that is not true unless you exit corners with the trigger at neutral. Accelleration is not delayed at all. The second you pull on the trigger at all, the drag brake is gone. The only time the drag brake engages when when the trigger is at neutral, and even then it is dialed in just enough to feel like a triple belt car off power.

The main reason use drag brake is provide a consistent speed reduction when entering corners. I like to hug the dots when I drive. As soon as I rotate past the apex of the corner, I'm right back on the throttle. If I don't use drag brake, I usually hit the brakes a bit too hard or a bit too soft. With drag brake, I miss the dots by about an inch every lap.
Shiloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 08:50 AM   #4454
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: texas
Posts: 236
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
Speaking of diffs...I reshimmed mine, placing two shims on one side instead of one on either side of the bearing. Ran all day and checked afterwards. No more stripping.
Thanks OS, that helps......

Great info Shiloh.
sook is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2003, 06:40 AM   #4455
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: JB, Malaysia
Posts: 259
Default

I tried out the 30mm front tires and it works well around the tight corners. It behaves like a front wheel drive car now. Unfortunately, straight line speed suffers and the car is so sensitive to directional changes, its hard to keep the car straight. Still, is sure feels great to keep on the power around the corners.
Morpheus2be is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:30 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net