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Old 06-06-2003, 12:28 PM   #4366
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shiloh

To make the pillow balls assemblies stronger in the NTC3, I recommend screwing them deeper into the arms. I screw the bottom pillow balls all the way in. Then I use the top pillow balls to set camber. This results in a track width of 192mm instead of 200mm, but it turns the NTC3 into a tank. Reducing the track width also allows the toe links to have more threads inside the RPM ballcups, which reduces the chance of messing up toe during impact. Handling wise, it makes the car turn a bit more quickly. I drive a lot of electric, so the 190mm track width is what I am used to.
Thanks for the input Shiloh, I am going to try this setup for my next race. Great to read fresh new ideas that dont run up the cost.
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:13 PM   #4367
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i just got the fix and was wondering if someone could give me a clear pic of where the 4 screws go? the pic that comes with it is kind of fuzzy. thanx
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:19 PM   #4368
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the long screws go through the bottom of the chassis through the gearboxes..First remove the bottom screws(the set in the middle) from the bottom...and the set from the top thats inline with th shock towers holes...screw the long screws in fr5tomthe bottom..they;ll come out through the top gearboxcover..then take the cap heads and screw them into the holes in the shock tower onto the bottom screws..
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:23 PM   #4369
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeffS
I'm not sure if this has been covered here yet, but in my search to solve pivot ball compression problems, I came up with the following solution:

http://www.rcpics.net/view_feature.php?featid=5

-Jeff
cool... think this will work with the rear turnbuckle?
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:47 PM   #4370
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Well the ball cup material is much softer than the arms so it will be much easier to strip when you tighten the set screw. Second you'll be galling the threaded portion of the turnbucle which will remove even more material from the ball cup making it weaker yet.
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Old 06-07-2003, 04:55 AM   #4371
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Yea Harry I have seen that after I called you arrogant you have changed your posting and also changed a few lines in your signatures. So I must have hit a nerve or something. I also see your are now admitting to having some of the same issues with the car we have all had, but you seemed to just want to argue about before. Hey man, I just call like I see them! I got over 20 PM's after our disagreement from people here and in the other forums here that totally agreed with me man!
I apoligize for the sarcasm then and now I hope we can go on with open eyes now.
Maybe address peoples issues with the car now, instead of blaming the cars issues on non driving, non building, non tuning abilitys. sorry man, statements like, that just really hits a nerve with me! BB
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Old 06-07-2003, 05:12 AM   #4372
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For you guys having the rear toe problems. You could always go and get some 1/16th roll pins or 1/16th piano wire, measure the depth of the of the turnbuckles in the ballcups. Drill a 1/16th hole through the cup at the end of the turnbuckle, and install the pins. This will keep the ballends from compressing. But you will still have to make a few sets for what ever toe in you prefer or need, but this way you can use all stock length turnbuckles, instead of getting longer ones and cuttin them to fit.
All this info is in the back pages. Man we need a page or two for all the modds and fixes that needs or we have done to this car instead of all the newbies having to do all the back reading. Who volunteers for it???? Harry? (just kidding)
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Old 06-07-2003, 06:18 AM   #4373
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Yea Harry I have seen that after I called you arrogant you have changed your posting and also changed a few lines in your signatures. So I must have hit a nerve or something. I also see your are now admitting to having some of the same issues with the car we have all had, but you seemed to just want to argue about before. Hey man, I just call like I see them! I got over 20 PM's after our disagreement from people here and in the other forums here that totally agreed with me man!
I apoligize for the sarcasm then and now I hope we can go on with open eyes now.
Maybe address peoples issues with the car now, instead of blaming the cars issues on non driving, non building, non tuning abilitys. sorry man, statements like, that just really hits a nerve with me! BB





well,its only toy cars after all........

but in all honesty,I never had a problem with the gears(even the black ones)..or the rear toe links.....BUT,I do realize now,they can be a potential problem....so like everyone else,why wait for problems...esp the toe links.....I'm real careful when driving with boards,but you sometimes can't avoid someone pushing you,right?....

but one thing I was wrong on was the tank.....MY RB's were always a little cranky with the old style tank...unless they were tuned perfect...and i'm good,but not that good.....I put the new tank on,what a world of difference.....the engines had a broader range of tuning....

and to be honest..the new K factory tank is even better than that..the engine ran so clean last week I though it was lean...(but I want to run it a few more weeks to be sure)..

I changed my signature because Manticore in the Mugen forum was twisting the meaning all around...

but it still hods true....after all,if you don't crash,do you need the toe links?....there was some guy beating up the tc3,because his FRONT toe links were compressing after he hit the wall......How fast was he going.....50 straight on?.....thats what the signature was supposed to adress.....stuff like that...


anyway,we are a united front ......

all for one,one for all....and all against the Mugens.. (talk about people who think a car drives itself )
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Old 06-07-2003, 06:24 AM   #4374
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
For you guys having the rear toe problems. You could always go and get some 1/16th roll pins or 1/16th piano wire, measure the depth of the of the turnbuckles in the ballcups. Drill a 1/16th hole through the cup at the end of the turnbuckle, and install the pins. This will keep the ballends from compressing. But you will still have to make a few sets for what ever toe in you prefer or need, but this way you can use all stock length turnbuckles, instead of getting longer ones and cuttin them to fit.
All this info is in the back pages. Man we need a page or two for all the modds and fixes that needs or we have done to this car instead of all the newbies having to do all the back reading. Who volunteers for it???? Harry? (just kidding)
Hey bbntc3,

that is a great idea! If someone should do it, the first place that the pages of fixes should go to will be AE.
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Old 06-07-2003, 06:31 AM   #4375
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
I have used the factory diff setting with mod motors for 2 years and never had a problem...are you building them correctly?
It is not me who has problem with the dif. In fact if I do, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference. But some guys at my track(who are good racers) feel that the performance of the NTC3 dif is inconsistent in performance. As I am keen for a NTC3 comeback at my local track, I will want to bring up their opinion or questions about the NTC3 on this forum so that some very experience drivers will be able to solve or answers the questions.
And the differential is one problem that was brought out. This was also mention by a guy who was top in 3 A mains and never left a race without a trophy....
so does anyone has any solution or thoughts about the dif?
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Old 06-07-2003, 06:54 AM   #4376
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I never had a problem with the ball diff either
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Old 06-07-2003, 07:20 AM   #4377
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Yea Harry my RB was very sensitive to settings with the AE tank, and almost unable to tune good modded engines. I change to the serpent/mugen tank design from the beginnng way before the K tank came out. I like the mugen tank over the serpent tank because its much stronger and I think it could almost with stand a direct hit in this area. The K tank is cool but kinda pricey to me, but my new chassis supports the mugen tank so the K tank or Ae tank will not fit. ( theres no place to bolted it to in our chassis.)
I'll get some car pics on here this weekend so you guys can see and say what you think of this deal. I really like it! BB
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Old 06-07-2003, 07:25 AM   #4378
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I agree BB, I switched a long time ago to the Mugen tank and never had a problem tuning the RB or the Mt mods. Never had a tank split in half either after the switch.
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Old 06-07-2003, 10:54 AM   #4379
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Yea Harry my RB was very sensitive to settings with the AE tank, and almost unable to tune good modded engines. I change to the serpent/mugen tank design from the beginnng way before the K tank came out. I like the mugen tank over the serpent tank because its much stronger and I think it could almost with stand a direct hit in this area. The K tank is cool but kinda pricey to me, but my new chassis supports the mugen tank so the K tank or Ae tank will not fit. ( theres no place to bolted it to in our chassis.)
I'll get some car pics on here this weekend so you guys can see and say what you think of this deal. I really like it! BB
By the way, may I ask which Mugen tank is it? for which 1/10 car. Is it the one for MTX3?
But actually I have no problem with engine tuning after I change my pipe to the RD logic turbo pipe.
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Old 06-07-2003, 09:14 PM   #4380
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The mugen part # for the fuel tank is MUGD-0803 the old # was 0802 but I think its been discontinued. Yes, the RD pipe is a very good pipe! Vibration, fuel delivery issues and to much exhaust restriction was always my main down fall with the car. Chassis, pipe and fuel tank change was all the car needed. Other than a good driver that is!
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