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Old 06-05-2003, 08:36 PM   #4351
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heh heh, see what happens when you wait?

Something, first - polish the stock ones (if you don't normally. . .). I took some Mother's wheel polish and made them all nice and shiny and they worked very nice for me.

Did I get that suggestion from here? Man, been on this thread for so long I can't remember what has and hasn't been said!
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Old 06-05-2003, 08:56 PM   #4352
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I've been polishing stuff with Blue Magic....it is great stuff..has a silicone in it that protects the metal...and makes it super slippery..

I use it for polishing bushings in my stock motor rebuilds(I'm a stock motor guru also..esp during winter buggy racing,and rally too)..
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:03 PM   #4353
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also,if your running the stock clutch shoes,take apart your clutch,,you'll probably see 2 indents fro the engaging action...smooth those out with Blue Magic metal polish...and do that whole area..so the clutch shoes ride on a polished area....works real nice......
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:25 PM   #4354
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Attn: Fastharry

I little off subject.

I while back you recommended a particular brand oil to lube bearings. I forgot...

Thanks,
Puma
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:48 PM   #4355
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I lube everything with Mobil 0-5 weight...
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:00 PM   #4356
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
the hinge pins are the wrong size...he can't get them the right size due to variances in the associated holes on the arm and bulkheads..the arms are to big...and he said due to the nature of titanium,you wouldn't be able to get them through the bulkheads if you made them the right size for the arms...
Ya, this Lunsford pin gave up the ghost, LMFAO!
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:02 PM   #4357
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that was lunsford in the tc3?....
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Old 06-06-2003, 12:19 AM   #4358
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Has anyone here ever put or have a Fantom FR12 or Orion Wasp .12 engine in their NTC 3? IF so how is it? Do you like the way it performs. What are the +'s and -'s. My friend had a FR15 in his Nitro Rustler and it hauled @$$. Anyway, will you guys give me your 2cents about these engines. And if these engines are not that good to put in an NTC3 will you suggest some for me. Thank you.
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Old 06-06-2003, 07:08 AM   #4359
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Those are basically good engines but not great top end. I have a Fantom .12 in my XXX-NT and it's fine there since you're on loose dirt and can't get all the ponies to the ground.

For on-road get a Mugen MT12, Sirio, OS TR or Wasp with the SG shaft. The higher traction let's you slap all the ponies to the asphalt. Plus those engines may only cost a few dollars more than the Fantom, maybe $20 to $50 more.
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Old 06-06-2003, 08:56 AM   #4360
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I'm not sure if this has been covered here yet, but in my search to solve pivot ball compression problems, I came up with the following solution:

http://www.rcpics.net/view_feature.php?featid=5

-Jeff
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Old 06-06-2003, 09:17 AM   #4361
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I've seen the '03 Fantom in a TC3 and it has plenty of top end. Just as fast as the MT12 both on low end and top end. I was very impressed. That was at 220 degrees.
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Old 06-06-2003, 10:16 AM   #4362
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There seems to be some confusion about how strong Ti actually is. Per its weight, Ti is very strong. Per its size, Ti is much weaker than steel. For example, if you have two pillow balls, one steel and one Ti, the steel one is drastically stronger. The Ti pillow ball will bend or break at the slightest impact. Same thing goes for hinge pins. Ti hinge pins always bend in even the most trivial collision. Use hardened steel for hinge pins and pillow balls. I have seen so many Ti parts bend over the years. The only time I use Ti stuff anymore is to replace Aluminum stuff. I never use Ti to replace steel. The weight savings is not worth the loss in durability.

To make the pillow balls assemblies stronger in the NTC3, I recommend screwing them deeper into the arms. I screw the bottom pillow balls all the way in. Then I use the top pillow balls to set camber. This results in a track width of 192mm instead of 200mm, but it turns the NTC3 into a tank. Reducing the track width also allows the toe links to have more threads inside the RPM ballcups, which reduces the chance of messing up toe during impact. Handling wise, it makes the car turn a bit more quickly. I drive a lot of electric, so the 190mm track width is what I am used to.

Anyway, with the right adjustments, the NTC3 can be very durable. At the last race day, I did not even remove the body all day. I just set the car up the day before the race and then raced it all day without repairing or adjusting anything. I finished 5th in the A main with it. Four of the top five A main cars were NTC3, so I know the NTC3 is very capable. I'm using the KFactory hardened steel hinge pins and the stock AE pillow balls.
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Old 06-06-2003, 11:18 AM   #4363
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Out of all the pivotballs I have tried the TI Racing pivots were the best, as far as Ti goes, and the AE TI Pivot balls were the worse. I have just gotten the best luck out of the stock Ae pivot balls. By drilling them you loose alittle weight,( a 10th of a gram here and there adds up) and theres really no strength lost. Plus the Ae ones are the cheapest and easy to find. I never bend a TI pivot ball they always break, at least with steel you sometimes only bend them, so with a bent pivot ball you can at least finish a race.
I also have some stock mugen pivot balls on order I'm going to give them a try.

Mave: I hate to say this, but read pages from beginning to end here.
The best way to fix the toe length problems is make you a few sets with lundsord turnbuckles and captured ball ends. Get turnbuckles the right length, so you have the ends ran all the way inside, (so they can't be compressed on impact). I think I started with one set of 2" buckles and 2 sets of 1.750 buckles. I made 3 sets 0/1/2 toe in. You may have to cut some off the turnbuckles for exact fit.
Hope this helps! BB
Hi bbntc3,
thanks for replying. Ok, I will try your advice tomorrow. But may I ask what is the 1.750 buckles? is it the diameter of the buckles or the lenght?

By the way, is there a gear Dif replacement or hop up for the NTC3? Or is there a way to gurantee or ensure the consistant performance of the ball dif. Someone at my LHS suggested Ofna gear dif. but he cannot confirm if it is going to fit the NTC3 chassis. Anyone try it yet?
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Old 06-06-2003, 11:21 AM   #4364
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Quote:
Originally posted by antoniop
Well I guess that no car can be considered to understeer by desing or to oversteer.
That's when setup comes into play.
There are too many factors starting on shocks and ending on the foams to play with to achieve that perfect balance between turning ability and stable and fast driving.

The TC3 is no more and no less capable of any car out there to do that.

The rear toe never failed on me. True that I never hit a wall with a rear wheel but I got T boned a considerable number of times and NEVER had a problem with rear toe losing the correct setting and by no means I've stripped ball cups with a bump.

Schumacher cars have that system for ages and during an entire season of electric racing (last year) the National Champion had a few hard hits but I dont recall him saying that rear toe was off because of that.

If you do that with toe on the TC3 then you may be able to do that on any car steering and camber links. Even if the shafts were made of titanium all the way with no ball cups you could always bend one.

I guess that can't be a weakness attributed to the car more than you can do it with other cars.

The car is smooth when setup is decent. It's fast and accelerates very fast.

If it's faster than other cars depends on to many factors:
Ratios
Motor
Motor tuning
Grip of wheels
etc etc

No way to compare. The only way is to have two cars and driving them both. Then you'll feel the diference.

What I can see is :
it was the fisrt World Champion (not for lack of competition)
it rips in every race around here
on my first race with one I went straight to the final with the national créme de la créme present at the race.
I never could with my MTX2...
Thanks Antoniop
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Old 06-06-2003, 11:24 AM   #4365
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Quote:
Originally posted by mave

By the way, is there a gear Dif replacement or hop up for the NTC3? Or is there a way to gurantee or ensure the consistant performance of the ball dif. Someone at my LHS suggested Ofna gear dif. but he cannot confirm if it is going to fit the NTC3 chassis. Anyone try it yet?
I have used the factory diff setting with mod motors for 2 years and never had a problem...are you building them correctly?
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