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Old 06-04-2003, 06:36 AM   #4336
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did you try the hardcores by any chance?...according to them,they wont bend,break..etc...


yea,I know...I still cant figure out why they don't fit....he said there a 2 thosanth size differnence between the arms and bulkhead...and if he make the pins to fit the arms,you wont be able to get them through the bulkhead...due to the not smooth nature of titanum....

my feeling is so what?...they use set screws in pins anyway so they don't move in the bulkhead...

and if you have to tap them,who cares?...
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Old 06-04-2003, 06:48 AM   #4337
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I believe the pins are supposed to be tight in the shock towers, and looser in arms. This is where the arms pivot. I have always had to push the pins in, not really forcefully, but they don't just slip in.

I have had the Hardcore pillow balls, they appear to be exactly like the FT pillow balls. The fit, and everythings great, but I don't believe they are any stronger. And yes they do bend.

I wasn't aware that titanium can't be made smooth. The TiR parts all appear very smooth, and have a high polish. So do the AE, Hardcore, and Lunsford parts as far as I can see. I'll try to get a good picture of the 3 pillow balls together to compare, I should have a few of each laying around somewhere.
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Old 06-04-2003, 06:58 AM   #4338
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your right..they are supposed to be loose in the arms...but not to the point where they have so much play..and these are bad...



theres close to 1 mm of side to side play ate the end of the arm where the pillow ball mounts(you know when you wiggle it back and forth,not fore and aft)

thats worse thenthe stock arms....not good in my book..
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Old 06-04-2003, 09:08 AM   #4339
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I switched to K-Factory hardened,
and polished hinge pins last season.
Very nice and a perfect fit. #1214
I have bent/broken every type of pivot ball out there. I use the cheap stock factory balls, and drill holes through the balls at 90 degree angles, then polish the burrs off them. Lighter yes!
I went as far as bore drilling the threaded shaft end of the pivot balls. (not a good idea). You can get by with bore drilling the steering turn buckles, but not the rear toe buckles or pivot balls.
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Old 06-04-2003, 06:39 PM   #4340
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Default Mugen Pillow Balls

Anyone try the Mugen pillow balls in the NTC3 yet?

I drilled out my arms with no problem, but the Mugen balls are tight fit in the NTC3 steering hub. I'm trying to think of a way to loosen up the fit so I won't need a 500oz/in servo to turn the car.

Tim
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Old 06-04-2003, 06:50 PM   #4341
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
I switched to K-Factory hardened,
and polished hinge pins last season.
Very nice and a perfect fit. #1214
I have bent/broken every type of pivot ball out there. I use the cheap stock factory balls, and drill holes through the balls at 90 degree angles, then polish the burrs off them. Lighter yes!
I went as far as bore drilling the threaded shaft end of the pivot balls. (not a good idea). You can get by with bore drilling the steering turn buckles, but not the rear toe buckles or pivot balls.

even the TI racing ones?.....


out of all the ones you tried,which were the worst?...

also,you think the std steel balls are stronger?...



BTW,i found out today,the Associated FT polished hinge pins are actually needle bearings out of large roller bearings...that should be PLENTY smooth..
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Old 06-04-2003, 07:16 PM   #4342
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What foams do you guys recommend for the ntc3 such as shore ratings, also maybe a dumb question what millimeter foams does it use, or do you recommend? Thanks guys should be getting the ntc3 tommrrow getting it in a trade.
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Old 06-04-2003, 07:39 PM   #4343
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tony...your question is to loaded.

the foams/shore will depend on traction and temperature. their are so many variables.


i run 35shore rear/40 front Ellegi foams
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Old 06-04-2003, 07:43 PM   #4344
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Default Re: Mugen Pillow Balls

Quote:
Originally posted by TimA
Anyone try the Mugen pillow balls in the NTC3 yet?

I drilled out my arms with no problem, but the Mugen balls are tight fit in the NTC3 steering hub. I'm trying to think of a way to loosen up the fit so I won't need a 500oz/in servo to turn the car.

Tim
I'm using Mugen pillow balls with out a prob. some of the pillow balls might feel tight, I think it is the mould on the knuckles, some of the holes are slightly smaller then others, just don't tighten the cap all the way. Might try a little grease.
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Old 06-05-2003, 09:00 AM   #4345
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Default Re: Re: get a load of this

Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
that is a problem.....

but we haev bigger problems......RAIN!!!

you think they have a rain date?..
Good newz, got the gears. The event is still on as of now. If I hear anything different, I will let you know. Hope I can get both cars ready for Sat. Pressed for time. I am missing 3 games this weekend to be there, it better be on. lol Rain dates are 6/21 and 6/22.
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Old 06-05-2003, 10:32 AM   #4346
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Default NTC 4?

Hi Anyone know if there is going to be a NTC 4 coming out soon?

the NTC3 flame is dying out at my local track. seems like I am the only one still holding the touch for it. Lot of them complain that NTC3 is a understeer car and difficult to control. Since I am a newbie, I can't comment on their remarks, but is everyone out there having the same comments or are those people at my track simply having the wrong setup?
But one thing I notice about NTC 3, the linkage is very susceptible to collision. For example the the link to adjust the rear toe-in can change dramatically during play. Is there a way to keep it consistant?

NTC3 is by all means the fastest car on the track, but it is very tiring to use it for a full day race as compare to other cars such as the MTX3. Does anyone else think so? If not please share your ideas on a proper setup of the car, hopefully that will re-kindle the flame for NTC3 at my local track again. Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-05-2003, 11:09 AM   #4347
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Out of all the pivotballs I have tried the TI Racing pivots were the best, as far as Ti goes, and the AE TI Pivot balls were the worse. I have just gotten the best luck out of the stock Ae pivot balls. By drilling them you loose alittle weight,( a 10th of a gram here and there adds up) and theres really no strength lost. Plus the Ae ones are the cheapest and easy to find. I never bend a TI pivot ball they always break, at least with steel you sometimes only bend them, so with a bent pivot ball you can at least finish a race.
I also have some stock mugen pivot balls on order I'm going to give them a try.

Mave: I hate to say this, but read pages from beginning to end here.
The best way to fix the toe length problems is make you a few sets with lundsord turnbuckles and captured ball ends. Get turnbuckles the right length, so you have the ends ran all the way inside, (so they can't be compressed on impact). I think I started with one set of 2" buckles and 2 sets of 1.750 buckles. I made 3 sets 0/1/2 toe in. You may have to cut some off the turnbuckles for exact fit.
Hope this helps! BB
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Old 06-05-2003, 11:13 AM   #4348
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Well I guess that no car can be considered to understeer by desing or to oversteer.
That's when setup comes into play.
There are too many factors starting on shocks and ending on the foams to play with to achieve that perfect balance between turning ability and stable and fast driving.

The TC3 is no more and no less capable of any car out there to do that.

The rear toe never failed on me. True that I never hit a wall with a rear wheel but I got T boned a considerable number of times and NEVER had a problem with rear toe losing the correct setting and by no means I've stripped ball cups with a bump.

Schumacher cars have that system for ages and during an entire season of electric racing (last year) the National Champion had a few hard hits but I dont recall him saying that rear toe was off because of that.

If you do that with toe on the TC3 then you may be able to do that on any car steering and camber links. Even if the shafts were made of titanium all the way with no ball cups you could always bend one.

I guess that can't be a weakness attributed to the car more than you can do it with other cars.

The car is smooth when setup is decent. It's fast and accelerates very fast.

If it's faster than other cars depends on to many factors:
Ratios
Motor
Motor tuning
Grip of wheels
etc etc

No way to compare. The only way is to have two cars and driving them both. Then you'll feel the diference.

What I can see is :
it was the fisrt World Champion (not for lack of competition)
it rips in every race around here
on my first race with one I went straight to the final with the national créme de la créme present at the race.
I never could with my MTX2...
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Old 06-05-2003, 05:03 PM   #4349
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Default Re: NTC 4?

Quote:
Originally posted by mave
Does anyone else think so? If not please share your ideas on a proper setup of the car, hopefully that will re-kindle the flame for NTC3 at my local track again. Thanks in advance.
The biggest problem I have had from last season to this is stripping the gears; I think I have found a big part of the problem(and it is very unobvious). It seems the cases are seperating under high rpm and load. I have blown 3 rear gearsets at my last two races. Long story short, I was using the aluminum socket head screws and the case was opening and then snapping shut; ever hear a snapping sound when you hold the car in your hand and rev it and let off the revs SNAP! This makes a lot of sense if you think about it, nobody has problems right after building it, it's only after they have had the car a while(after the case screws have been worn). Mine started after the screws got loose. I am going to put the lower shock mount screws in along with new cases, and finally got a full set of white gears too, and it should fix the problem(if it doesn't I'm shopping for another car)
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Old 06-05-2003, 06:50 PM   #4350
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Out of all the pivotballs I have tried the TI Racing pivots were the best, as far as Ti goes, and the AE TI Pivot balls were the worse. I have just gotten the best luck out of the stock Ae pivot balls. By drilling them you loose alittle weight,( a 10th of a gram here and there adds up) and theres really no strength lost. Plus the Ae ones are the cheapest and easy to find. I never bend a TI pivot ball they always break, at least with steel you sometimes only bend them, so with a bent pivot ball you can at least finish a race.
I also have some stock mugen pivot balls on order I'm going to give them a try.

Mave: I hate to say this, but read pages from beginning to end here.
The best way to fix the toe length problems is make you a few sets with lundsord turnbuckles and captured ball ends. Get turnbuckles the right length, so you have the ends ran all the way inside, (so they can't be compressed on impact). I think I started with one set of 2" buckles and 2 sets of 1.750 buckles. I made 3 sets 0/1/2 toe in. You may have to cut some off the turnbuckles for exact fit.
Hope this helps! BB



well,I'm glad to say,after 3 days of talking to 50 million people,I'm taking your advice and putting the stock ones back in......on your council DON bbntc3..... (see,I'm not so arrogant...)
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