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Old 06-02-2003, 07:34 PM   #4291
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That's kinda odd about the MIP Shineys. I have used them for over 3 years now and have never twisted one off. I have been in a few wrecks and bent them but never broke one. We raced a 190mm TC3 Trinity conversion for 2 years and the shineys were the only thing that would hold up. OB4: I'd send it back to MIP and have them take a look see at it.
I think TIR makes the Ti cvds, but someone posted here quite a few pages back that the pin will not stay in them and they tend to come apart, and mip stuff won't interchange with the TIR suff.

I have found another machinist in CO. The name is TS ENGINEERING.
He wanted some people to try his new drivecup and brakehub for the NTC3. They are sweet and very very light. He has machined the brake hub down out of alum, its round not squared and it has no steel pins for the brake disc, the alum is machined out in the back for the brake disc to ride in. He's seems interested in making some TI components for the NTC3 at a better quality and cheaper price than TIR and HARDCORE RACING so maybe I'll mention the cvds to him.
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Old 06-02-2003, 07:45 PM   #4292
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Hmmm, Hardcore Racing Pro Chassis? I would think if you had that kinda money to spend you would at least tie all the wiring up. Hell, how can you knock the chassis, do to human error?
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Old 06-02-2003, 08:57 PM   #4293
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Hey nut, I just go my shoes too. Haven't tried them as of yet. I too have all the lightweight rotating mass. I went to the shinny cvds, from the aluminum, and they are holding up well, but I do feel that the car doesn't jet out like it did. I may go back to the lightweight alu for races only, debating the move though.
I went to the lot today andthere were alot of people who had the same idea, getting ready for this weekends race. Me and a top regular with a mtx3 went at it for many tanks. Great matchup, but I blew my rear diff. Has anyone found a place to order the new dff and pinions gears?
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Old 06-02-2003, 09:09 PM   #4294
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
On another subject, have any of you tried titanium axles? I have a set on my electric TC3 and they are very well made, just not sure if they would hold up well on a nitro car. They weigh 1/3 the weight of the steel MIP axles. I would think their short length, along with their large diameter, would allow them to be very strong. Just a thought.
How about the AE composite bones? So far I haven't had an issue with them and they have put up with both my Ofna 7-port and my Ritchy RTO.
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Old 06-02-2003, 09:16 PM   #4295
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Quote:
Originally posted by CHUCKMANDO
Hey nut, I just go my shoes too. Haven't tried them as of yet. I too have all the lightweight rotating mass. I went to the shinny cvds, from the aluminum, and they are holding up well, but I do feel that the car doesn't jet out like it did. I may go back to the lightweight alu for races only, debating the move though.
I went to the lot today andthere were alot of people who had the same idea, getting ready for this weekends race. Me and a top regular with a mtx3 went at it for many tanks. Great matchup, but I blew my rear diff. Has anyone found a place to order the new dff and pinions gears?

check tower hobbies....make sure you ask them for WHITE GEARS only..order parts express,then code M,which is priority air for 6.00....usuallyu takes 3 days...(but could be longer)..
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Old 06-02-2003, 10:37 PM   #4296
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HEy everyone Try out theAE compsite CVD wow such a nice accelration i haved use the TC3 one but not the 200mm yet its still works the same but i guess the the 200mm Ones are stronger.
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Old 06-02-2003, 10:45 PM   #4297
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
OB4: I'd send it back to MIP and have them take a look see at it.
Yes it is a perfect failure, nice and smooth and perpendicular to the axis too, happened accelerating out of a turn; all the sudden it did this wicked snap spin; then I think after that it trashed a rear diff a lap or two later because of the 3-wheeling . The car got really sensitive to throttle but I finished the race on 3wd after swapping out the rear diff in the pits. BTW it was a gray gear again, no need to panic yet on the gears. I think i found another source for stripping the gear, I put my chassis and gear boxes in the oven to get the temp up(125 like I've temped after races) on the gearboxes and noticed the screws got loose that hold the case together; in fact one that appeared fine when cold now felt stripped, so if this happens the pinion can lift the diff out of the lower case and strip the gears, it may explain why people don't have problems at first but after a few races start having problems. Needless to say I'll be installing some longer screws and may even go to the 3 mm screws.
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Old 06-02-2003, 10:55 PM   #4298
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Originally posted by OB42TC3
I twisted off one of my shiny CVDs off this weekend in the main at Cincy. It broke right where you would expect it to, where the diameter changes. In my experience the shinys are no stronger even in bending. I have some of the IRS big dawgs, and I did the calculations and they are the strongest, that or the niftech 7075 ones.
I tried the IRS big DAWG bones and they are stronger but I had a problem with mine. IRS uses pin cushions for the pins( very small pin surronded by plastics as opposed to metal, and what happened to mine were the small little pin works its way out from the plastic. If your not watching it carefully and let it go, the pin will cut a grove into your shock tower. $25 bucks in the trash. I called IRS and told him. He said he has been having the problem when you run a modified motor. I told him i'm running a 3 port RB x12 roar legal (not rody mod). He sent me new pins, very nice guy. I'm going to add CA when I put the new pins in. Let you know
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Old 06-02-2003, 11:05 PM   #4299
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I have been running 3mm screws since september and I replaced the bottom cases for the first time 2 weeks ago. IMO the hole was made to big for the 4-40 screws to bite good.

Thats interesting that the cases get that hot, I wonder if something can be done about it. I 'll try to think something up.

Thanks,

Steven Muller
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Old 06-03-2003, 04:59 AM   #4300
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here is a pic of my ntc3 with jp motor!
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File Type: jpg ntc3.jpg (40.1 KB, 152 views)
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:35 AM   #4301
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Guys...need help. Just got KFactory Centax Clutch for my NTC3. It rocks...that's until something gave...the thrust bearings. Just wondering is that common for Centax cluthes or did I do something wrong...one more problem is the spares for these bearings...will bearings from other cars fit? Its pretty hard to get hold of the ones for NTC3.

Thanx.
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:44 AM   #4302
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I would email K factory and ask them..I asked them that question last week,and they said Team Trinity here in the states would have spare parts...

did you grease the bearing?....I've used Associated black grease on my Impulse..it works fine..
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:51 AM   #4303
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crashed_1,
I know the Kawahara centax I have uses a common Mugen thrust bearing, same thing they use on the MRX-3/MTX-3. It may also work on your K-Factory. Make sure you lube it often, at least every race day, or it will keep on giving out.

thomasf,
You can remove the IRS pins/cushions, and install a pin set from your original blue team bones. I believe you can get a new set from MIP. IRS makes a small tool set to remove/replace pins, makes the job super easy. Once you tap in a set of the originals I don't think they'll come out on their own.

On the subject of bones, I have never actually broken one, just a few bends, only when using a one-way. That's actually what I bought the steel bones for, use with a one-way. Other than that the original bones have been fine. Same goes for transmission gear problems, never had a problem with anything other than a one-way, otherwise 100%. I still want to use the newer gears, just not flowing into our region as fast as I'd like. As soon as I see a new HD one-way with the new gears I'll buy it. I have 2 sets of pinion gears, just waitng on the diff ring gears and I'll be all set.
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Old 06-03-2003, 06:04 AM   #4304
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ntc3nut, That is the same for me, I'll bend them when using the one way, no prob when using a diff. Thanx for the info on the steel pins, I'll give irs a call. I guess irs uses the pin cushions to save the wear on the outdrives, but I have the original stock cvd's on the rear diff (flipped them over mid season),and the pins show the wear, not the outdrives. yes the outdrives have a littlte wear,but i need to replace the cvd's because the pins are wore out. Or I can get the pin removal tool and replace them.
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Old 06-03-2003, 06:06 AM   #4305
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hey nut!!!!!!!!!!!!!


just wanted to tell you that I ordered my 3 shoes from Dave at Crazy NUT racing........




as felix unger used to say...he is one HECK of a nice guy....


I would absolutely recomend him to anyone.......


as far as the lunsford situation goes..thats ongoing..

the hinge pins are wrong(thank you very much).....

as far as the balls,thats ongoing...he says he can;t make the thread diameter wider,as Titaium pulls threads out(or something like that)....I tried putting them in fresh arms...they are tighter,but what the hell good is that?.....

he also checked the diameter....he sid they are close..in his car,4 had a little slop,two were ok,2 were tight....he can't increase them,otherwise all would be tight..I have to remind him that they break in,and teh pillow caps can be tightened...

I also have ask him why the std parts aren't an issue...
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