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Old 06-02-2003, 06:00 AM   #4276
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No, with new pillow ball caps, I had to tighten the cap head screws down tight, then back them off 1/4 turn each until broken in. After a few runs they could be tightened back down completely.

Also, tried the new Crazy Nut aluminum shoes, WOW! I think everyone should spend the $10 or $15 (2-shoe/3-shoe) and try these things out. Man do they engauge. I drilled mine to match the weight of the teflon shoes I ran earlier last year, I also started out using the heavy copper springs. Let's just say it was a little much. I went back to the stock black springs and it tamed it down quite a bit. I was having problems with a slipping front diff, and the super hard engaugement wasn't helping matters. I look forward to getting back out on the track and giving the shoes another go, this time with a freshly rebuilt set of diffs. I think a stock set of the aluminum shoes, along with the standard AE springs, would make for alot of happy racers.
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:03 AM   #4277
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Here's the P/N your looking for: TR9511

This is a front & rear input shaft set. The other is a driveshaft.
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:05 AM   #4278
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you da man....(nice to have some company)..also,we can't forget bbnt3...he gets a little edgy if we don't give him props(which he deserves)

did you try the 2 shoe or three shoe?...(with the stock springs)..

also,can I call crazy nut on the phone?...
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:16 AM   #4279
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
you da man....(nice to have some company)..also,we can't forget bbnt3...he gets a little edgy if we don't give him props(which he deserves)

did you try the 2 shoe or three shoe?...(with the stock springs)..

also,can I call crazy nut on the phone?...
No problem, glad to help the faithfull. Don't worry, there are still quite a few of us out there.

Used a 3-shoe w/factory team bellhousing.

Here's Dave's (Mr. CrazyNut) phone number:410-282-5085
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:24 AM   #4280
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
No problem, glad to help the faithfull. Don't worry, there are still quite a few of us out there.

Used a 3-shoe w/factory team bellhousing.

Here's Dave's (Mr. CrazyNut) phone number:410-282-5085

thanks....so you'd start with the 3 shoe....how did that compare with the stock 2 shoe and heavy springs...thats the set up I have on my car now...no drilling...its not bad..could use a TAD more snap...tell me what you think to get the desired results..
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:35 AM   #4281
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Start by keeping what you have, I'm not sure how big of a differance the 3-shoe would make over the 2-shoe, especially if your going to go to aluminum shoes. Drill your teflon shoes and see how you like them. I started by putting a 3/32 hole thru the big end of each shoe, then progressed to a 1/8 hole, then added another 3/32 hole between the 1/8 hole and the hole for the flywheel pin. I was very happy with the performance of these super light shoes with copper springs. Keep in mind that I had a very light drivetrain, all of the FT parts (LW clutch bellhsg/LW 2-spd bellhsg/LW 2-speed 1-way), plus the TiR shafts.

I have also just switched to MIP Shiny CVD's, not sure if I like them yet or not. I wanted the extra strength/life of steel, but I hate adding rotating mass, and they are much heavier than the original aluminum CVD's. Stay tuned.
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:37 AM   #4282
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I wanted to give you a pic of the drilled teflon shoes I used last year.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mods 003.jpg (44.2 KB, 212 views)
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:50 AM   #4283
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thanks bud....I'll call him today and order the 3 shoes anyway.....what the heck....its not like I'm spending thousands on an HPI...

then I'll try the same progression you did...

thanks again..

I'll keep you posted on what lunsford says..
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Old 06-02-2003, 07:30 AM   #4284
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
how about the balls themselves ....any slop in the cup?....
My balls have always been the perfect size, I've heard no complaints...

Sorry, couldn't resist!
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Old 06-02-2003, 08:50 AM   #4285
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FASTHARRY...

what are the ball caps that you are using?
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Old 06-02-2003, 10:09 AM   #4286
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I have also just switched to MIP Shiny CVD's, not sure if I like them yet or not. I wanted the extra strength/life of steel, but I hate adding rotating mass, and they are much heavier than the original aluminum CVD's. Stay tuned.
I twisted off one of my shiny CVDs off this weekend in the main at Cincy. It broke right where you would expect it to, where the diameter changes. In my experience the shinys are no stronger even in bending. I have some of the IRS big dawgs, and I did the calculations and they are the strongest, that or the niftech 7075 ones.
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Old 06-02-2003, 11:03 AM   #4287
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Thumbs down hardcore pro chassis

I was racing my car yesterday caught on fire couse of the

wire on the bottom start hitting the damm ground

so dont get this chassis is not worth it just cost you money(lot)
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Old 06-02-2003, 12:18 PM   #4288
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Did the chassis ground out your wires causing a short or did you leave the wires hanging loose so they could be scraped by the ground and then shorted out on the chassis?

If the chassis caused a short then why did you put uninsulated wires on a metal chassis?
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Old 06-02-2003, 03:21 PM   #4289
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
you da man....(nice to have some company)..also,we can't forget bbnt3...he gets a little edgy if we don't give him props(which he deserves)

did you try the 2 shoe or three shoe?...(with the stock springs)..

also,can I call crazy nut on the phone?...
Hey man!! I'm on the right medication now, It's racing season! I'm cool with everything!
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Old 06-02-2003, 03:32 PM   #4290
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
I twisted off one of my shiny CVDs off this weekend in the main at Cincy. It broke right where you would expect it to, where the diameter changes. In my experience the shinys are no stronger even in bending. I have some of the IRS big dawgs, and I did the calculations and they are the strongest, that or the niftech 7075 ones.
That's what I thought, not worth the added weight. I think they have the "Big Dawgs" at the shop, I'll pick-up a set of those. Are they also thicker around the pin area, near the axle? I have had to replace a set of the originals due to heavy wear in that area.

On another subject, have any of you tried titanium axles? I have a set on my electric TC3 and they are very well made, just not sure if they would hold up well on a nitro car. They weigh 1/3 the weight of the steel MIP axles. I would think their short length, along with their large diameter, would allow them to be very strong. Just a thought.
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