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Old 05-28-2003, 07:03 PM   #4216
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The higher the ratio, the better the acceleration and vice versa. The trick is to get just the enough ratio and tire rollout for the long straight based on the capability of your engine to keep the powerband shift between first and second gear as close as possible so as not to bog the engine out.
what do you mean by bog the engine out? Cause i notice that when i have mine at full speed that sometimes it will slow down and turn off. I roichened it up a little thinking that maybe not enough fuel was getting to it, but it still happens. it doesnt do it once the engine is warmed up...that i can tell anyway.
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Old 05-28-2003, 08:24 PM   #4217
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
what do you mean by bog the engine out? Cause i notice that when i have mine at full speed that sometimes it will slow down and turn off. I roichened it up a little thinking that maybe not enough fuel was getting to it, but it still happens. it doesnt do it once the engine is warmed up...that i can tell anyway.
It sounds like your plug is starting to wear out. What plug are you using? Is it a long track that you're running?

When there is such a high jump in the gear ratio when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine RPM drops down and out of the powerband curve that makes sufficient power to pull the car. When this happens, you can actually hear the engine straining when 2nd gear kicks in. That is what you call bogging the engine out.

Just like 1:1 cars, people spend a lot of money to short gear ratio shifting gearbox making sure that there is minimal jump in gear ratio when shifting from one gear to another. The closer the 1st and 2nd gear ratio, the better it is that the engine RPM is kept within the powerband range when the 2nd gear kicks in. You need to make sure that when 2nd gear kicks in, the engine RPM is at the highest torque.

The NTC3 probably can take a 6 tooth split in the gearing because it is shaft driven and the drive train is pretty smooth. It probbaly doesn't strain and bog down the engine so much when 2nd gear kicks in unlike otrher belted cars.

Still, the rule to follow when using a high tooth split is to let the 2nd gear engage at a later RPM (i.e. tighten the 2 speed screw engagement).
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:38 PM   #4218
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Harry the car lauches better pulls off the turns better and is a breese to set.. I had it set to factory spec and had to back it off maybe 1/2 turn then it was perfect. You could hear it engage and sorta release with too much traction then engage again. Nothing like the Ae stuff. IT was our first time out with the clutch, no brg trouble so far, I will not go as far as some here and greese it every run, but,, will regreese it after each race night.
Yes the diff troubles was in the rear diff.
These guys are no slouches when it comes to set up and they said this is the main problem they have with the car. the New white gears seem to help but it still happens. I have never had front diff troubles at all, mine has always been in the rear. I have the new alum cases and I too can only use 1 shim in the diffs.
As far as the cg with the new clutch goes? that's kinda iffy! I have use the k mts or ground my Ae mount down as low as I can go with out the engine block rubbing the chassis. You have to be very good to notice much of a diff but I'm sure there is some.
I'm using my new chassis design the k clutch with the mugen fuel tank. My car had so much traction roll sat. nite I could'nt get rid of it. 4.5mm ride height .5 rear toe and it still rolled like crazy!!!!!. I scratched the proto type chassis all too hell!
This chassis we have came up with rocks man!! you can come into the pits rev the hell out of the car with the tank lid open and fill it and theres no fuel splashing and slushing around.. Our chassis has completeing cured the fuel delivery and vib. prob. that I seem to have had.
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Old 05-29-2003, 02:28 AM   #4219
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has anyone got a set up for a large to medium surface track!!!

jeremy.
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Old 05-29-2003, 05:34 AM   #4220
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I thought you said the Kyosho was yourrace car,and the tc3 was a bashing car?..
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:17 AM   #4221
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Harry the car lauches better pulls off the turns better and is a breese to set.. I had it set to factory spec and had to back it off maybe 1/2 turn then it was perfect. You could hear it engage and sorta release with too much traction then engage again. Nothing like the Ae stuff. IT was our first time out with the clutch, no brg trouble so far, I will not go as far as some here and greese it every run, but,, will regreese it after each race night.
Yes the diff troubles was in the rear diff.
These guys are no slouches when it comes to set up and they said this is the main problem they have with the car. the New white gears seem to help but it still happens. I have never had front diff troubles at all, mine has always been in the rear. I have the new alum cases and I too can only use 1 shim in the diffs.
As far as the cg with the new clutch goes? that's kinda iffy! I have use the k mts or ground my Ae mount down as low as I can go with out the engine block rubbing the chassis. You have to be very good to notice much of a diff but I'm sure there is some.
I'm using my new chassis design the k clutch with the mugen fuel tank. My car had so much traction roll sat. nite I could'nt get rid of it. 4.5mm ride height .5 rear toe and it still rolled like crazy!!!!!. I scratched the proto type chassis all too hell!
This chassis we have came up with rocks man!! you can come into the pits rev the hell out of the car with the tank lid open and fill it and theres no fuel splashing and slushing around.. Our chassis has completeing cured the fuel delivery and vib. prob. that I seem to have had.
what kind of problems are you having with the rear diff ? I never had a problem with the rear, still using the same gear from when i got the car. I must have 3 to 4 gallons on it. I was having problems with the front one way ( stripping the gears), but i put the white gear with the new AE heavy duty, (the one with the bigger flange), not Yokomo, and so far so good, the white gear is doing ok
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Old 05-29-2003, 01:10 PM   #4222
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With the old diff gears I would melt the rear diff down, or with more than a 4 tooth split on the 2 speed, my RTU would rip the teeth off the gears. I have been using the new white diff gears and a smeltz modified and have had no diff troubles at all.
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Old 05-29-2003, 03:33 PM   #4223
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what is RTU?
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:54 PM   #4224
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I heard a tc3 was TQ at the texas biggie..and other results?..




also,where are you guys mounting your personal transponders?..
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Old 05-29-2003, 09:39 PM   #4225
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On the radio tray above the steering servo or on the receiver box lid.
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Old 05-29-2003, 09:52 PM   #4226
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I've had my personal mounted to the radio tray above the steering servo. No problems with the signal ever. Alot of the Associated team drivers mount theirs on top of their reciever packs, held down with the zip tie.

On the topic of diff gears, I have never had a problem with anything besides one-ways, and only when a colision was involved. That's with the original gears, shimmed the way stated in the manual. I have the newer gears, just haven't had reason to install them in the diffs yet. I got rid of all my one-ways last season in frustration over this issue. I'm going to pick-up a new AE HD one-way this season and try it out. I love this car with a one-way. I also suggest using AE's diff lubes when building the diffs, exactly as the manual reads. I tried using a few different lubes last season and none worked as well as what came in the box.
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Old 05-29-2003, 11:24 PM   #4227
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
It sounds like your plug is starting to wear out. What plug are you using? Is it a long track that you're running?

When there is such a high jump in the gear ratio when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, the engine RPM drops down and out of the powerband curve that makes sufficient power to pull the car. When this happens, you can actually hear the engine straining when 2nd gear kicks in. That is what you call bogging the engine out.

Just like 1:1 cars, people spend a lot of money to short gear ratio shifting gearbox making sure that there is minimal jump in gear ratio when shifting from one gear to another. The closer the 1st and 2nd gear ratio, the better it is that the engine RPM is kept within the powerband range when the 2nd gear kicks in. You need to make sure that when 2nd gear kicks in, the engine RPM is at the highest torque.

The NTC3 probably can take a 6 tooth split in the gearing because it is shaft driven and the drive train is pretty smooth. It probbaly doesn't strain and bog down the engine so much when 2nd gear kicks in unlike otrher belted cars.

Still, the rule to follow when using a high tooth split is to let the 2nd gear engage at a later RPM (i.e. tighten the 2 speed screw engagement).

I'm using an OS8 plug. brand new. only has about 6-8 tanks on it. Also for the gear ratio i am using the standard gears and pinions that came with the kit (50 and 54 teeth i believe).
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Old 05-30-2003, 05:00 AM   #4228
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I've had my personal mounted to the radio tray above the steering servo. No problems with the signal ever. Alot of the Associated team drivers mount theirs on top of their reciever packs, held down with the zip tie.

On the topic of diff gears, I have never had a problem with anything besides one-ways, and only when a colision was involved. That's with the original gears, shimmed the way stated in the manual. I have the newer gears, just haven't had reason to install them in the diffs yet. I got rid of all my one-ways last season in frustration over this issue. I'm going to pick-up a new AE HD one-way this season and try it out. I love this car with a one-way. I also suggest using AE's diff lubes when building the diffs, exactly as the manual reads. I tried using a few different lubes last season and none worked as well as what came in the box.

thanks nut...


it says not to mount it on carbom fibre,thats why I asked(I have the FT deck)...Were the team drivers using the carbon graphite top deck?...I thought they were using the std top deck,or the grahite one..


I agree with the diff lube...I tried Niftech lube......didn't work..

another thing to do is to make sure you lube that Orange slipper ring..it skind of easy to gloss over that in the manual..


still beatin' the Mugens?.....
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Old 05-30-2003, 07:00 AM   #4229
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Beating the Mugens? I'm just happy to keep up with them, they are all driven by better drivers! I have been keeping notes on what their weakness' are though.

The Team drivers where using the carbon version of the standard tray. I have the carbon fibre tray like you, and I have no problems with it over the servo. If you read the instructions that come with the personal transponder you might think that there is NO correct place to mount it ("don't mount near aluminum, carbon fibre, reciever, wiring, ect.", "don't mount upright, sideways, ect."). It's a little ridiculous really. I also cut off the tabs & used servo tape to mount it.

On the diffs, I tried Ronnie Grease once. I was lubing my centax thrust bearing and thought, what the heck, if this stuff is supposed to be so great I'll use it next time I rebuild the diffs. Wrong, I made it 2-5 min. qualifiers before both diffs where toast. The stuff was so slippery it allowed the diffs to slip constantly and melt the ring gear centers. Follow the manual, believe it or not they do have some idea what they're talking about.
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Old 05-30-2003, 07:15 AM   #4230
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I am with ya on the diff lube NTC3NUT. I found that the lube that came with the kit is by far the best product to use so far.

FastHarry, most of us mount our transponders over the steering servo.
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