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Old 05-20-2003, 06:49 PM   #4141
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Default Re: Bevel and Ring gears.

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Anyone know how to solve the problem of the bevel and ring gears stripping out? I am using a one-way in the front and even the white gears strip out with the slightest board tap.
I'm using the AE new heavy duty with the white gears and I must have at least 1 1/2 hours of run time on the white gears and so far so good, and I 've tapped boards. Knock on wood
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Old 05-20-2003, 06:52 PM   #4142
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you can't stay on the gas and hit boards with a shaft drive car.....
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:16 PM   #4143
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you can't stay on the gas and hit boards with a shaft drive car.....
If you say so
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:26 PM   #4144
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I'm looking to sell my ntc3 and would like to know basically what it's resell value is. It's a non-p/s version with ALL the factory team hopups, hitec digital servo, and a os hyper cv-r .15 with a Futaba magnum fm radio. What's it worth? Thanks
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:41 PM   #4145
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
you can't stay on the gas and hit boards with a shaft drive car.....
Huh lost me on this one.
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:42 PM   #4146
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Quote:
Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
I'm looking to sell my ntc3 and would like to know basically what it's resell value is. It's a non-p/s version with ALL the factory team hopups, hitec digital servo, and a os hyper cv-r .15 with a Futaba magnum fm radio. What's it worth? Thanks
Check Ebay and compare. I'll give you a 100 bucks right now and pay for shipping.
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:44 PM   #4147
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I'll go $150 and you can keep the radio and the OS engine.
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:47 PM   #4148
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100 to 150
that's the resell value.
Try to post a pic.. should be good
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:02 PM   #4149
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
and some guy called me crazy 'cause I've seen the new Serpent 700(AAA) mah packs get drained by 2 digatal Futabas in a 30 minute main....and I read the Mugen guys had the same problem..he told me no prob..run the new 800 packs...
In the last world meet in Ohio, I thought Team Serpent was using 700 mAH Sanyo AAA receiver packs. I don't think at that time they had 730, 750 or even 800 mAH AAA batteries. And they lasted for one good hour of racing.

A good trick is to use a good analog throttle / brake servo and a digital steering servo.

I find that on mine, a 750 mAH receiver pack can last me a good 40 minute main with 2 digital servos (9451). Have not tried beyond that.
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:06 PM   #4150
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Quote:
Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
I'm looking to sell my ntc3 and would like to know basically what it's resell value is. It's a non-p/s version with ALL the factory team hopups, hitec digital servo, and a os hyper cv-r .15 with a Futaba magnum fm radio. What's it worth? Thanks
Twist 2 Go,
You have a PM please check.
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:31 PM   #4151
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Default ntc3 body

i'm selling a custom painted body for a ntc3 if you are interested e-mail i have pics .thanks
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Old 05-21-2003, 09:58 AM   #4152
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I use 2100mAh 9.6V NiMH battery for my Futaba 3PK and 1000mAh 6.0V NiMH battery for R113iP (PCM1024) receiver. So far the max I went was 4 hours plus without recharge and still got plenty of power (Tx shown 9.3V and Rx shown 5.8V)
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Old 05-21-2003, 10:44 AM   #4153
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Default Re: Bevel and Ring gears.

Quote:
Originally posted by rcpilot
Anyone know how to solve the problem of the bevel and ring gears stripping out? I am using a one-way in the front and even the white gears strip out with the slightest board tap.
You have to shim out the gearbox for the least amount of backlash, this also needs to be done each and everytime you change gears, diffs, input shaft, input cups, bearings etc. All of those things have tolerances and can throw the mesh off.
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Old 05-21-2003, 10:57 AM   #4154
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Thanks, I'll try that.

I actually have a round metal ring holding the gear on on the one-way so it applies even pressure to to whole gear and prevents it from flexing so much. It uses longer screws to hold the ring on tight but the gears still break.
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:33 PM   #4155
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Default Re: Re: Bevel and Ring gears.

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Originally posted by OB42TC3
You have to shim out the gearbox for the least amount of backlash, this also needs to be done each and everytime you change gears, diffs, input shaft, input cups, bearings etc. All of those things have tolerances and can throw the mesh off.
do i need to add shims or just to reposition the ones that came with the kit?

also are you just referring to the shims that go with the input shaft assembly?
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