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Old 05-18-2003, 05:05 PM   #4081
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Default Re: Re: Okay, so I'm a sellout!

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Originally posted by fastharry
i think you should give the fix a chance..but you also have to ask"what would have stood up to that assault" on the boards..
Alright, so what exactly is this "fix" anyway?

And I have to agree, the NTC3 is pretty tough... at least as tough as anything else out there. I've put a lot of race mileage on it and have only broken it a couple of times on big hits that would have broken any car.
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Old 05-18-2003, 05:17 PM   #4082
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Quote:
Originally posted by torchedlh
you don't threalock the four engine mount screws?? i've been threalocking them ever since i got the car... maybe that's why i've stripped the heads of 4 of em....and yes i'm not using the kit wrenches, i'm using integys.
You definitely don't need to thread lock the motor mount screws... because like you said, if you do then they become dang near impossible to get back out. The heat turns thread lock into a super glue. Same applies to all the screws holding the motor together. I pull the motor out of the car at the end of each race day and have never had a screw come loose.

Not to say I don’t have a few screws loose.
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Old 05-18-2003, 05:23 PM   #4083
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
I use a SMALL dab of loctite on the clutchbell screw(and i mean small)..i never use it on the mounts...
SMALL is right... be very carefull to not get the thread lock on the bearing on the end of the clutch bell or it will bond to the shaft making it extremely difficult to get off (don't ask how I know).
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Old 05-18-2003, 05:34 PM   #4084
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Stormperson,
I have seen the steering rack screws come out more than a few times. You'll usually loose the screw, and the bushing in the process. The problem is that the screws Associated provides aren't quite long enough to go completely thru the bellcrank arm, making them easy to pull out in the event of a crash. My fix last season was this:

- go to the next longer button head screw (sorry, don't remember the exact length of either the original or the replacement)
- assemble the rack off the car, the screws will go completely thru the bellcrank arms
- mark the screws and remove them to cut them down, you can do it while the rack is assembled, but you take the chance of the plastic melting from heat
- reassemble with the new modified longer screws, and add a drop of CA glue

You will never have them pull out again. Next time I have my car apart for cleaning I'll snap a pic and post it for you.
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Old 05-18-2003, 05:40 PM   #4085
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I also have a picture of the RD pipe with an Associated manifold, for you guys having problems with the original RD manifold and fuel tank clearance (like me). It worked great this weekend. I'll post it ASAP.
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Old 05-18-2003, 06:43 PM   #4086
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Default Re: Re: Re: Okay, so I'm a sellout!

Quote:
Originally posted by seamus0g
Alright, so what exactly is this "fix" anyway?

And I have to agree, the NTC3 is pretty tough... at least as tough as anything else out there. I've put a lot of race mileage on it and have only broken it a couple of times on big hits that would have broken any car.



go to ebay,type in "the fix tc3"........any questions,I'll be happy to answer..also,you don't have to bid..just email Jim reeves and get them direct..
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Old 05-18-2003, 07:15 PM   #4087
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Default The Fix

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Originally posted by fastharry
go to ebay,type in "the fix tc3"........any questions,I'll be happy to answer..also,you don't have to bid..just email Jim reeves and get them direct..
Ahh, thanks, found it. Iinteresting. But are people really "detonating" diff cases?!? I've never seen a diff case break.
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Old 05-18-2003, 07:47 PM   #4088
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to be honest,neither have I...but what it helps to do is prevent the shock tower from loosening....it ties the shocktower and upper and lower cases together..
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Old 05-18-2003, 07:56 PM   #4089
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Quote:
Originally posted by seamus0g
The 358 is a very good high torque servo, and if it's not centering then it's broken (or something else is seriously binding in your steering rack). It's not really fast enough to be used as a steering servo, but would make a good throttle servo. The 357 is the fast equivalent typically used for steering. The 757 and 758 are fast digital variations, but draw more power.

All the Airtronics servo specs are here:
http://www.airtronics.net/Servo_specs.htm
Sorry not to sound like I'm bragging but I do race for Airtronics and the team manager has verified my suspicions about the 258, 358, 257, 357 servos not centering very well... this makes them very good for offroad applications but not as good as the 758's in onroad. And the 358 is plenty fast for a steering servo. I doubt you can tell the difference between a .07 servo and a .09 one. Also the 358 is probably the biggest battery pig of a servo that Airtronics makes, but if you need the power it's an awesome servo. Get the 758 and you'll love it. Have fun and good luck.

Jon
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:18 PM   #4090
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hey all i was wondering, if your tc3's make sharp turns in both directions? The reason that i ask is beacause my nitro tc3 (kit version) all stock w/ stock setup does not make sharp turns. It seems taht all the turns that i have to make are extremely wide.
Also I was wondering does anyone know where i can find the Futaba 3PJFS? I know that it is discontinued, I looked at eaby but no luck....

any input would be greatly appc.


Thanks Jason
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:37 PM   #4091
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Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
hey all i was wondering, if your tc3's make sharp turns in both directions? The reason that i ask is beacause my nitro tc3 (kit version) all stock w/ stock setup does not make sharp turns. It seems taht all the turns that i have to make are extremely wide.
Also I was wondering does anyone know where i can find the Futaba 3PJFS? I know that it is discontinued, I looked at eaby but no luck....

any input would be greatly appc.


Thanks Jason
the tc3 will make wide turns witha lack of traction on teh surface....but you can help by adding the 6587 tourque control spring from the GT to the steering rack.

btw,under race conditions,you'll never notice...part of the reason it seems like it doesn't turn is that its a shaft drive car..when you back off the gas,they'res no weight transfer to the front like a belt car does..cause there;s no drag..you're gonna haveto get used to braking,and turning at the same time..learn to hit your braking points on the track,and power out of corners...

trust me..you do that,it will turn great..

btw,the 3 pjs doesnt come close to the 3 PK..I have both,I know..
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:50 PM   #4092
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jscamry: Maybe move the servo arm on the servo one notch one way or another, and readjust the steering line to the rack. (recenter it). I seen this problem before, if the steering is not binding up and the center rack screw is tight, a servo spring won't cause the problem
Stormperson: NTC3 NUT is right. But if the rack arms are about half stripped now, you can file the arms down alittle on the bottom side, get longer screws and add a thin 4/40 shock nut and install on the bottom of the arms, add a small drop of blue lok tite on the nut, and the screws will never come loose again.
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Old 05-18-2003, 08:56 PM   #4093
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
jscamry: Maybe move the servo arm on the servo one notch one way or another, and readjust the steering line to the rack. (recenter it). I seen this problem before, if the steering is not binding up and the center rack screw is tight, a servo spring won't cause the problem
Stormperson: NTC3 NUT is right. But if the rack arms are about half stripped now, you can file the arms down alittle on the bottom side, get longer screws and add a thin 4/40 shock nut and install on the bottom of the arms, add a small drop of blue lok tite on the nut, and the screws will never come loose again.
bbntc3..explain to me how moving the arm helps...

(I'm not being a wiseguy here,just curious)..thanks..
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Old 05-18-2003, 09:10 PM   #4094
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hey guys, i have a question, and possibly a gripe, for which i will take up with the company, but anyway, i have the rdlogics turbo pipe, an the mani to enginge gasket is leaky, i read a few pages ago that others were having this problem, due to the fact that the mani diameter was to big, i am using the rb(nova) gasket, any ideas?????? thanks

matt

btw, swen the car is great....
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Old 05-18-2003, 09:21 PM   #4095
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thanks fastharry and bbntc3.

fastharry: I currently have a JR XR3, and it works fine, but does not have a main features that I would like, as DSC.

Thanks J.
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