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Old 05-17-2003, 06:30 AM   #4066
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Doh!
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Old 05-17-2003, 06:39 AM   #4067
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fastharry
I've had two NTC3's since they came out. Never cleaned the shoes. Never had one of the engines off, but, I also race with Impulses and VoneRs.
I will pop off the clutch in question and inspect it.
What is the general thought, re" threadlock, when I re-mount the Collari XS12?
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Old 05-17-2003, 06:50 AM   #4068
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i take out the clutch,sand it(lightly) to get the glaze off,and scotch brite the bell..I use a SMALL dab of loctite on the clutchbell screw(and i mean small)..i never use it on the mounts...
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Old 05-17-2003, 06:58 AM   #4069
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Cool, thanks
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Old 05-17-2003, 09:40 AM   #4070
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
how else could you get to them?
What he said.
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Old 05-17-2003, 12:16 PM   #4071
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
i take out the clutch,sand it(lightly) to get the glaze off,and scotch brite the bell..I use a SMALL dab of loctite on the clutchbell screw(and i mean small)..i never use it on the mounts...
you don't threalock the four engine mount screws?? i've been threalocking them ever since i got the car... maybe that's why i've stripped the heads of 4 of em....and yes i'm not using the kit wrenches, i'm using integys.
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Old 05-17-2003, 11:53 PM   #4072
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Red face Okay, so I'm a sellout!

I've been eyeing the new MTX-3 lately, even more so after practice. The track boards were hungry today, and the entire front right side of the NTC3 is...gone. I clipped the end of a board and it ripped the upper and lower arm completely off the chassis, bending a ti hinge pin into a pretty little "L" shape in the process and blowing out both bearings in the upright. Don't get me wrong, I love the car, and when it's together it's nigh-on untouchable in the handling department. It's just that the down time for repairs in adding up (and yes, I know about "The Fix", as a mtter of fact am bidding on Ebay now). Some of my racing buddies swear that even when they look at their NTC3's the wrong way the car breaks, lol.
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Old 05-18-2003, 12:16 AM   #4073
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Originally posted by Old Skool
I've been eyeing the new MTX-3 lately, even more so after practice. The track boards were hungry today, and the entire front right side of the NTC3 is...gone. I clipped the end of a board and it ripped the upper and lower arm completely off the chassis, bending a ti hinge pin into a pretty little "L" shape in the process and blowing out both bearings in the upright. Don't get me wrong, I love the car, and when it's together it's nigh-on untouchable in the handling department. It's just that the down time for repairs in adding up (and yes, I know about "The Fix", as a mtter of fact am bidding on Ebay now). Some of my racing buddies swear that even when they look at their NTC3's the wrong way the car breaks, lol.

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Old 05-18-2003, 04:32 AM   #4074
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If you guys could pick which radio would you get the Airtronics MX-3 FM or the JR XR3 FM?? I need help choosing, they are both good radios i am just stuck on which one might be better than the other. Any help would be great. i will get the one that you guys pick. Also are the servos any good that come with these radios? Because, like most of the guys here i have a NTC3 also. and the Ace Jaguar radio system blows. I hate it. So i am going to buy a new radio system and i need help on deciding which one to get.

Thanks,
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Old 05-18-2003, 05:17 AM   #4075
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Get the Airtronics. It's alot less expensive and has more model memory. Either would be a good FM radio.
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Old 05-18-2003, 06:22 AM   #4076
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Default Re: Okay, so I'm a sellout!

Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
I've been eyeing the new MTX-3 lately, even more so after practice. The track boards were hungry today, and the entire front right side of the NTC3 is...gone. I clipped the end of a board and it ripped the upper and lower arm completely off the chassis, bending a ti hinge pin into a pretty little "L" shape in the process and blowing out both bearings in the upright. Don't get me wrong, I love the car, and when it's together it's nigh-on untouchable in the handling department. It's just that the down time for repairs in adding up (and yes, I know about "The Fix", as a mtter of fact am bidding on Ebay now). Some of my racing buddies swear that even when they look at their NTC3's the wrong way the car breaks, lol.

i think you should give the fix a chance..but you also have to ask"what would have stood up to that assault" on the boards..


teh new imuplse 705,in the mag test at revelation,just touched the wall lightly,and broke the upright..and thats a real 1/10 scale onroad up right..

the guys at the snowbirds were clipping the x ray front ends left and right..

i was racing at a board track in edison nj..a 1/8th scale track with a 200 ft straight..Serpent and Mugen 1/8th scales were being pushed into the boards and arms were flying off...

by the way,there was enough yellow paint on my wheel nuts at the end of a 30 minute main to cover them.....the side of my body had the "DARLINGTON" stripe...the car finished 4th in the a main..unbroken...and with the fix still in it..









BTW,did you break the gearboxes too..and how fast were yoiu going?...........
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Last edited by fastharry™; 05-18-2003 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 05-18-2003, 03:03 PM   #4077
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I was wondering if I was alone on this issue due to my mechanical incompitance or if AE has a minor design flaw...

I realize i am not perfect and do hit the occasion board, however this seemed kinda odd.

I have had the screws that hold the servo saver piece to the bellcrank come out on multiple occasions, even after i tried super glue and red locktight. I was in third place in the A-main yesterday after bumping up from the B (i had a rough time in qualifying), and i had had some incidents in the B main (10 minutes long) but nothing major and then 4 minutes into the A i hit a board when my car was parrall with it (so probably the only thing that hit was my wheels, and i bet one of my front ones was turned, so it hit the hardest) and then my car went south the rest of the race, i found out after that the screw on my right bellcrank was MIA (which explained alot, although my lap times only dropped off by less than a second, lol).

so my question is: is there any way to aviod this problem? my servo saver is rahter tight, however if it loosen it at all i have high speed push because the servo saver is coming in under normal racing conditions. has anyone tried the aluminuim versions of the bellcranks?

any help would be apprecaited! thanks!
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Old 05-18-2003, 03:48 PM   #4078
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swen
No it's the servo. The 258 and 358 servos don't center as well as the new 94758's do. The 758 is a digital servo with 115oz of torque and a transit time of .06 The 358 is great for offroad trucks or 1/8th scale buggies but in the precision of a sedan the 758 will perform better and the extra torque of the 358 isn't needed.

Jon
Thanks Swen. I will move the 358 to my Super and order the 758. I originally ordered the 758 but my LHS got the 358 in and said I wouldn't notice much difference but I have because the car still won't center. I did pretty well in the main today but if my servo was centering I would have done much better.
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Old 05-18-2003, 04:39 PM   #4079
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Quote:
Originally posted by Number 11
Thanks Swen. I will move the 358 to my Super and order the 758. I originally ordered the 758 but my LHS got the 358 in and said I wouldn't notice much difference but I have because the car still won't center. I did pretty well in the main today but if my servo was centering I would have done much better.
The 358 is a very good high torque servo, and if it's not centering then it's broken (or something else is seriously binding in your steering rack). It's not really fast enough to be used as a steering servo, but would make a good throttle servo. The 357 is the fast equivalent typically used for steering. The 757 and 758 are fast digital variations, but draw more power.

All the Airtronics servo specs are here:
http://www.airtronics.net/Servo_specs.htm
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Old 05-18-2003, 05:00 PM   #4080
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
I have had the screws that hold the servo saver piece to the bellcrank come out on multiple occasions, even after i tried super glue and red locktight. I was in third place in the A-main yesterday after bumping up from the B (i had a rough time in qualifying), and i had had some incidents in the B main (10 minutes long) but nothing major and then 4 minutes into the A i hit a board when my car was parrall with it (so probably the only thing that hit was my wheels, and i bet one of my front ones was turned, so it hit the hardest) and then my car went south the rest of the race, i found out after that the screw on my right bellcrank was MIA (which explained alot, although my lap times only dropped off by less than a second, lol).

so my question is: is there any way to aviod this problem? my servo saver is rahter tight, however if it loosen it at all i have high speed push because the servo saver is coming in under normal racing conditions. has anyone tried the aluminuim versions of the bellcranks?
Are you talking about the screws that go in from the top, or the ones from the bottom? In either case I have never seen anyone have this problem. And I run with the servo saver almost locked. Maybe use slightly longer screws? Are you running the steering rack bearing kit?
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