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Old 05-06-2003, 11:44 AM   #3871
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
That is not for the NTC3, it is for the TC3. . .'ware the difference.

The NTC3 turnbuckles will contain one fairly short one (servo to rack), two slightly longer (rack to front wheels) and two THICK and LONG ones (rear toe links)

When you do get the turnbuckles, do yourself a favor and get new RPM Ballcups for the rear - make SURE to get the grey ones, they're made for the thicker, beefier buckles.

where can I get the ballcups?
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Old 05-06-2003, 11:52 AM   #3872
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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEV19&P=7
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Old 05-06-2003, 12:17 PM   #3873
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitrosaurus
where can I get the ballcups?
Or at your LHS. . .

These things aren't hard to find. . .
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Old 05-06-2003, 12:40 PM   #3874
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
That is not for the NTC3, it is for the TC3. . .'ware the difference.

The NTC3 turnbuckles will contain one fairly short one (servo to rack), two slightly longer (rack to front wheels) and two THICK and LONG ones (rear toe links)

When you do get the turnbuckles, do yourself a favor and get new RPM Ballcups for the rear - make SURE to get the grey ones, they're made for the thicker, beefier buckles.
where can i get the whole set, turnbuckles, ball cups, etc. been looking for them at tower hobbies and i dont see any for the ntc3. my lhs doesnt have any either. also i see that the shumacker (sp) titanium shaft drive is better than the AE one. where can i get ahold of that as well? also, can i get the mip cvd dogbones in titanium? if so where? sorry for all the questions, but i am still new to this. thanx for the help.
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Old 05-06-2003, 01:43 PM   #3875
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Futureal, sorry 'bout that. I was still running the forum default.

You might have already checked it out, but the pictures are in the middle of page 95(assuming there are 97 pages right now...just changed the # of posts per thread on my settings). Or, I'll just post them... The pics were originally posted by Rookie Solara.

The cheap "Fix":



The real "The Fix", off Ebay.



I had a friend order me two sets of "The Fix" off Ebay, since I don't have an account, and he got them, but was down at RCX, so I haven't gotten them yet. I'll get some pictures once I install them(when I get them from him).
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Old 05-06-2003, 01:50 PM   #3876
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Default 2 CHAMBER PIPE VS STOCK PIPE

Is it me or is anyone expirancing a low end exceleration loss with the 2 chamber? I am using the same manifold which I used to have very close to the pipe. I seperated them a little to no avail. I cannot test vs the old pipe, since it is history.
Tks
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Old 05-06-2003, 03:08 PM   #3877
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Default Pipes

For the price of the AE dual chamber pipe, i bought the dyamite pipe and now i have the option to change to a different pipe. Numerous manfactures have different pipes. The header is the hard part. Now that Dyamite has this part you can use a Nova Mega, THS, or whatever as long as they have the rubber internal gasket with the three springs. If people want to pay $49 for each of AE's pipes you have more money to spend then I do. And they only have a RPM pipe and a Torgue pipe nothing in between. No track is the same. Stock is nice but when you looking for more power then the stock cant cut it. Not to mention it doesn't flow all that well with all those bends in the header and pipe. (Yes I have access to a Flow Bench)
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Old 05-06-2003, 03:10 PM   #3878
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Default FYI: AE HD -vs- Yoko One-way

Just an FYI:
I recently got my hands on both an AE HD one-way and the Yokomo one-way to see if there are any differences. Although almost identical, there is one very important difference: the AE HD one-way has a larger backing ring on the hub for the ring gear to attach to, which will hopefully support the ring gear better to prevent the gear stripping problems people have been having. The AE one-way also comes with shims for the bearings to remove some of the slop, which should help as well.
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Old 05-06-2003, 03:18 PM   #3879
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Default Re: 2 CHAMBER PIPE VS STOCK PIPE

Quote:
Originally posted by CHUCKMANDO
Is it me or is anyone expirancing a low end exceleration loss with the 2 chamber? I am using the same manifold which I used to have very close to the pipe. I seperated them a little to no avail. I cannot test vs the old pipe, since it is history.
Tks
I'm getting excellent low end power with the dual chamber pipe on a Sirio 3 port ROAR-legal. I have the manifold all the way into the pipe. Have you retuned the carb for the new pipe? Maybe experiment with gearing for your track?
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Old 05-06-2003, 03:19 PM   #3880
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yea AE finally did their homework for beefing up their oneway for the nitro car. I didn't get my hands on the new ring gears way i just shimmed the input shaft the right way. and with the setup i'm running i need the trans runnin perfect. Spool in the rear and one-way in the front. Impact setup.
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Old 05-06-2003, 05:32 PM   #3881
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
where can i get the whole set, turnbuckles, ball cups, etc. been looking for them at tower hobbies and i dont see any for the ntc3. my lhs doesnt have any either. also i see that the shumacker (sp) titanium shaft drive is better than the AE one. where can i get ahold of that as well? also, can i get the mip cvd dogbones in titanium? if so where? sorry for all the questions, but i am still new to this. thanx for the help.
I don't know about the whole set.

i took out the old buckles, measured them and then went to my LHS and bought Lunsfords that were the right size.

The rear toe links came from an off-road AE buggy
I don't remember what the front ones came from.

Be creative.
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:24 PM   #3882
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I wanted to ask you guys how much interest would there be for adjustable pivot ball retainers? One of the few things I don’t like about my NTC3 is that I can adjust the retainers for wear very good, it gets to a point that I have to buy new retainers.

We can make the retainers out of fiber filled plastic, saving weight and keeping the cost down. I would also include a tap for taping the existing hubs. Please let us know your opinions about this.

I also wanted to show you this one piece Aluminum upper deck. Its made out of 1/8 thick 7075 and all the edges will be chamfered and rounded, the one on the picture is the first prototype that we made.. It will include aluminum stand-offs. Also, unlike the Hardcore Ti upper deck, this one does not sit higher than the stock one, therefore maintaining the low CG.

It might also include a brace that will allow the battery to sit lower on the chassis, lowering the CG even more.

Thanks,

Steven Muller
MPP
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Old 05-06-2003, 11:39 PM   #3883
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has anyone tried the tip on http://www.rc411.com/index2.html




This is from RC411.com

Remove the ball ends from your car. Head to the hobby shop and pick up a pack of 4-40 setscrews, and a 4-40 tap and drill set. Locate a spot on the suspension arms about 3/8 of an inch
from the end of the arm. Drill a hole into the arm so that the drill is pointed perfectly centered over the hole that the ball end will screw into. Drill the hole but stop once you go through to the mounting hole. Next use your 4-40 tap and tap the hole you just drilled. Now reinsert your ball ends and set the suspension how you want it. Thread one of the 4-40 set screws into the hole you just cut. Tighten it until you feel the setscrew snug up against the ball end. Repeat the process to all four corners as needed.

Thanks Jason
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Old 05-07-2003, 02:21 AM   #3884
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Default Delrin Spur gears are now available

Good news my peeps, the folks at Dynamite has released the Delrin Spurs for the NTC3, the bad news is that they only come in 54 and 52 sizes only, no word if the 48 will be released. The other bad news they retail for about $19.99 a $15.00 premium over the AE spurs. My LHS carries them and will probably pick up just the 52 spur for now until they come out with the 48 spur.
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Old 05-07-2003, 05:23 AM   #3885
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i think someone should make fixed toe links for the back....

thay have them for a TMAXX's.....
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