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Old 05-05-2003, 12:49 PM   #3841
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
Hey guys,

I am thinking about getting into nitro a bit for the summer, probably with a TC3.

I don't know too much about the various engines and stuff out there, nor what all I'd need for the car to get it up and running. I'd need to get a ROAR-legal engine/pipe, and I'd prefer to run Futaba servos. I already have the other radio gear necessary.

Any recommendations on an engine/pipe for the car? What else would I need to get it going competitively?
i WOULD STICK WITH. . .well, first I would turn off the friggin caps lock. . . sorry.

I would stick with a Rossi-based motor. I LOVE my Mugen MT-12. Great motor! I'm using the stock rear-port manifold and the stock pipe. It works fine for me and for most of the people I know who are using them.

As for other stuff you should get/need to get -
  • look for the slipper clutch spring to replace the stock spring in your steering rack.
  • Upgrade the turnbuckles to Titanium.
  • Get THE FIX (or an equivalent).
  • Get the front Blade Sway Bar and a rear sway bar (you may not NEED them, but they are wise investments).
  • Get a safety cutout switch.
  • Get the RPM front bumper

After that you should be fairly good to go.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:59 PM   #3842
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yokomo_King
Nice NTC3 haha then LD3 is a beutiful hoped up NTC3. But damn could it be all show no Go hahah. the only way for the Ofna team to sell is to have a fully hop up car to do the things the the ntc3 does box stock. Better quality better everything Ae
There is a testimonial quote for Futureal,
Just run the ntc3 box stock first with engine of choice, 3 port - .12 roar legal non-turbo rear or side exhaust, depends on which kit purchased. Every other fix or hop up can just be added as you go.
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Old 05-05-2003, 03:12 PM   #3843
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dvargas: the deck is ok, I have used it since it came out. I like the idea of not having to use the chassis braces with it. The driveshaft is a different story, if you ordered the HC shaft. It's bigger in diameter than the AE shaft and used in conjunction with the rear HC brake hub the car gets to speed alittle faster, well maybe not faster but does hold rpms better. The only down fall with the HC shaft is when the wheels are cut all the way to the right, the steering link rubs the shaft, not good!. Also if you use the stock flemsy, flexy AE chassis, one solid front end hit, and the $45 shaft is junk.
Not to say it won't bend with a better chassis , but I bent a AE shaft and a HC shaft with the stock chassis and I switched to the GH chassis and have taken some very hard hits and the shaft has never bent.
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Old 05-05-2003, 03:36 PM   #3844
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i ordered the AE shaft not the HC.
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Old 05-05-2003, 03:41 PM   #3845
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Quote:
Originally posted by dvargas
i ordered the AE shaft not the HC.
The AE Shaft Bites. Shumacher makes a Titanium one for the NTC3, call them up. I"m using that one.
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:11 PM   #3846
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I'm pulling the Impulses off the track for good. (Will be posting 2 rollers, with some nice upgrades for $425.00)

My question is:
What is the least painless way of checking the front & rear diff adjustments?
Pop off the steering ball-cup, disconnect the lower shock, and remove the upper hinge pin?
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:22 PM   #3847
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The AE shaft is ok, it's just a blue copy of the original version. I have been running mine since I got the car. I tried the Hardcore shaft, too big in diameter & not trued (at least mine wasn't). The TiR stuff Schumacher imports is top notch, won't go wrong there. Stay away from anything else titanium, it's all a waste of money. After trying pillow balls, hinge pins, screw kits, axles, input shafts, ect., the only thing I would recommend is the driveshaft & input shafts. Keep in mind that the input shafts will wear under the bearing races and will eventually need to be replaced. If I bought another kit I would get:

- steering & brake bearings
- ti-turnbuckles
- graphite kit (just my personal preferance, you don't have to have it)
- "The Fix"
- dual chamber pipe
- hard hinge pins
- copper clutch springs

That's it, I don't think you really need anything else, other than your normal spares. Pick any .12 3-port ROAR legal engine (NovaRossi, Mugen, Top, JP, Sirio, Picco, OS) and you'll be competitive. Make sure you use the best electronics you can afford.
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:31 PM   #3848
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nut..how about the brake and input cups..
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:31 PM   #3849
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yes deifently get the GT slipper clutch spring, and tighten the servo saver assembly down hard.

you don't need the brake bearings, but the steering ones are a niec addition.

also, give the clutch shoes a light scuff with sandpaper to give it a better "bite" onto the clutch bell.
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:44 PM   #3850
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
That's it, I don't think you really need anything else, other than your normal spares. Pick any .12 3-port ROAR legal engine (NovaRossi, Mugen, Top, JP, Sirio, Picco, OS) and you'll be competitive. Make sure you use the best electronics you can afford.
I'm surprised the car doesn't come with ball bearing steering already; that seems like a no-brainer to me.

What exactly is "the fix" that has been mentioned? heh

As for electronics, that's no problem. After making a few blunders when I was a newbie, I went to all high-end stuff and I think I actually save money like that in the long run.

Thanks for the tips everybody!
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:02 PM   #3851
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Man, I can't believe I forgot the heavy servo saver spring, but that's included in the newer kits now, just make sure you use it! I'm not sure on the driveshaft cups, I have had IRS front & rears on my car since new, I would keep an eye on the front one, but the rear should be ok.

RPM bumper too, must have!

Last edited by NTC3NUT; 05-06-2003 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:14 PM   #3852
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hey guys wuz up?
nut where did u guys go? edison?
i'm starting to get ready for the season but i'm still have problems with my TC3 .
the CAR is to pushy on power (turns) i've tryed everything soft rear, hard front ,vc foams slick regular and still.......the track (lot) is brand new and i have alot of grip so i went hard compound tire (foams and slicks)
what am i doin' wrong?
but the way harry i'm picki' up a mtx2 some hop ups specially centax and the HC chassis what do u think.........$275 and i looks neat(engine inc.....)
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:18 PM   #3853
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Man, I can't believe I forgot the heavy servo saver spring, but that's included in the newer kits now, just make sure you use it! I'm not sure on the driveshaft cups, I have had IRS front & rears on my car since new, I would keep an eye on the front one, but the rear should be ok.
Theres cups in the rear?!...
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:37 PM   #3854
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
I'm surprised the car doesn't come with ball bearing steering already; that seems like a no-brainer to me.

What exactly is "the fix" that has been mentioned? heh

Thanks for the tips everybody!
I'm not running BB steering, still using the bushings. I'm wary of putting bearings in an area that can get so danged dirty. Just me. . .

The fix is a bracing system that holds the shock tower against the diff cases and to the chassis. It's worth it, really really worth it.
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:52 PM   #3855
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Futureal, for a couple good pics of what "The Fix" does, go to page 127, 6th post down.
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