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Old 05-02-2003, 10:07 AM   #3781
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I tried those aluminum shoes Crazy Nut Racing makes last night. Holy crap do they ever rip off the line with the copper springs. I put the stock spings on to see how they work and I have to try it out later. I was just playing around in the street with it and it was just ripping the tires loose. Maybe with the copper springs and some good traction it would hook up and go. But they definatley grab the clutchbell better. I'm not sure about the wear on the clutch yet it's too early to tell but it really didn't look too bad at all. check um out guys the price is right on them too.

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Old 05-02-2003, 11:30 AM   #3782
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImportRacer1187
IT LOOKS LIKE A TRASHY CAR... they couldnt fit everything nicely so they just shoved it all together... and again its a split shaft like the hpi... it just looks like it will suck... But that doesnt mean it will... but judging from that pic... it will suck... but hey i may be wrong it may be the best shaft car to date... but i still would choose to keep my ntc3
It doesn't look trashy. It looks pretty good. It's "pre-production" so I'm sure Kyosho will clean it up. I don't think they were gonna spend the time to fabricate all the pretty boxes to hide electronics just for a test prototype. Plus you can use any kind of pipe on it. It's on a skinnier chassis. Basically the same weight distribution as the NTC3 except without the fat chassis. Nothing wrong with split shafts. They still turn at the same rate. Do you really believe there is only one shaft that connects the front and rear diffs in the NTC3? The only benefit of the NTC3s design is that it's not affected by engine braking. There are no one-way gear hubs in a design like the Kyoshos.
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Old 05-02-2003, 12:40 PM   #3783
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I am getting radio interferience. I have the NTC3 RTR. with the ACE JAGUAR radio system. I am no farther than maybe 50 feet from my car and i get some darn radio interference. why does this happen????
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Old 05-02-2003, 12:43 PM   #3784
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Check your Battery in the car and the controller. Make sure that nothing is touching the graphite or carbon graphite. can cuz radio interferance and make sure that you didnt Zip tie and wires toghter.
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Old 05-02-2003, 01:36 PM   #3785
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I ZIP TIED THE WIRES ON THE BATTERY CASE BUT NOTHING ELSE
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Old 05-02-2003, 02:41 PM   #3786
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To BBNTC3:

This is your $5 (and mine too) "the fix" subsitution....



And this is the real "THE FIX", and that works much better...



About the new Kyosho......I still remember about 5-6 months ago when ppl arguing about the MTX3 vs 705 vs NTC3...........and all those belt ppl saying "How come all the 235mm or 1/8th are still belt drive...?"

All I can tell them is..................wait and see who (Serpent/Kyosho/Mugen) will do the shaft drive 1/8th on-road first and beat everyone on the national....I am sure it will happen. (I thought Tamiya DID their first 1/8th shaft drive on-road already....)

And I cannot agree about ppl saying the SHAFT material cannot handle the torque and power of the .21 engine, that is a bull, we are living in year 2003 now....I bet even shaft made by some ABS PLASTIC with some engineeering behind that can handle the power of .21 engine......if not, how about CAST IRON...?
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Old 05-02-2003, 03:41 PM   #3787
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yokomo_King
Make sure that the toe in or out is the same on each side. Try Adjusting the STeering left and right on your controller. What controller do you have?
I have the 3PK
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Old 05-02-2003, 04:33 PM   #3788
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hey rookie..


your telling me that a man that can do that GREAT diagram,and has that much mental capacity,cant hit the brakes at the end of a 200 ft strait to slow a car down?.....


you're killing me..
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Old 05-02-2003, 05:16 PM   #3789
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There will not be too much of a hurry toward shaft driven 8th scale, since 8th scale does not benefit as much from shaft drives. A 21 size engine has no problem pushing belts. And more importantly, 8th scale cars are run on well prepared surfaces, so there is less of an issue tearing up belts.
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Old 05-02-2003, 08:49 PM   #3790
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
hey rookie..


your telling me that a man that can do that GREAT diagram,and has that much mental capacity,cant hit the brakes at the end of a 200 ft strait to slow a car down?.....


you're killing me..
Fastharry....yeah, if I have the RC knowledge and driving skill like you....I will be team up with Barry right now....LOL.

However, I am still fighting against my belt car/one-way driving habbit....especialy with the IMPACT/ Impulse PRO with one-way set up....I rarely use the brake for those car (cause they usually slow down a lot when you are in idle, you should know that well enough).

But this year, I really want to USE the brake (and try NOT to rely on the drag braking)...........from the video I saw for Barry Baker.......he use a lot of brake.
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Old 05-02-2003, 08:57 PM   #3791
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shiloh
There will not be too much of a hurry toward shaft driven 8th scale, since 8th scale does not benefit as much from shaft drives. A 21 size engine has no problem pushing belts. And more importantly, 8th scale cars are run on well prepared surfaces, so there is less of an issue tearing up belts.
Of course, who can stop a .21 engine....and I agree NO ONE should jump the boat and redesign the WHOLE platform complete JUST to win the national title, it is a lot of money, not to mention the SERPENT Veteq incident......CUSTOMER will leave immediately.

However, my feeling about shaft drive versus belt drive is.....PUNCH, Instant reaction, coming in corner faster, and exiting the corner WAY faster....and those are the charactor of shaft drive platform..............

Now....will shaft drive be seen on 1/8th...? Who knows....but if that is a benefit on 1/10 200mm scale, it should be a benefit to 1/8th scale as well..........

But please just don't let AE start that first.......I cannot immagine 2.5 plus HP engine powered 1/8th NTC3 and touch a board .....what else is left......

P.S.....I would like to know more about the MUGEN pillow balls conversion.....what is the parts # for those pillow balls from Mugen and where (online) store can get those pillow balls...? I tired Serpent Impulse one, they are alittle TOO BIG for the NTC3 arms, and it is un-modifyable (I know that is no such word, but you know what I mean.....)
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Old 05-02-2003, 09:47 PM   #3792
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One problem with shaft drive cars is left to right balance. Even if a manufacture finds a way to perfectly balance the car, the balance will never be consistent throughout the entire race because the fuel tank on a shaft drive car will not be in the center. In a 10th scale parking lot machine, the benefits of the shaft drive (more punch, less worry about rocks, etc) outweigh that. However, in 8th scale, I just do not see shaft drives catching on. A 21 engine is powerful enough that the difference between belts and a shaft is trivial. And since 8th scale cars are basically reserved for well prepped tracks, the common parking lot debris is a nonissue.

Why would somebody want to design a 8th scale car that would have a known balance issue just to get a little more punch from a motor that has more punch than they can use already? How common are belt failures in 8th scale racing? I am not saying that we will never see a 8th scale shaft driven onroad car, but I am saying that there is less benefit to it. I do not expect to see a shaft driven 8th scale car for at least some time to come.

By contrast, I suspect every major TC manufacture will have a shaft driven 10th scale TC out in the near future. The benefits of the shaft drive are too obvious to ignore in 10th scale TCs.
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Old 05-02-2003, 10:40 PM   #3793
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when I put the mugen pillow balls on I just went to the LHS and got the pillow balls off the mugen wall so i couldn't tell you what the part # is, but if you call nitro house they should have them. They carry all the Mugen stuff. Just ask for the pillow balls to fit the MTX-2, MTX-3 might be the same, I don't know. Mugen makes a steel and a titanium version. I used the steel ones and haven't bent them YET. The titanium ones are twice the money but I'm sure they are twice as strong. Just like the AE ones.LOL
As far as the drill bit, I think i used 11/64 bit.
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Old 05-02-2003, 11:54 PM   #3794
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I found that Futaba is a lil hard to adjust haha took me 5 mins but i got it ok. When using a new controller you have to adjust everything again. so turn on your TX for Steering put it in the center on your TX. and then re align every thing toe in and out i mean
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Old 05-03-2003, 01:49 AM   #3795
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Anyone run an Orion Wasp in their car? I'm curious as to how easy to tune the new Picco carbs are(I heard the Wasp has a newer, easier to tune carb), and also how the engine does with things like reliability and fuel mileage. I already know the engine is a screamer, and basically any engine(Wasp, MT12, MR12, etc) will be fast in an NTC3, so I'm more concerned with the new carb and how the engine is as far as tuning goes. Thanks.
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