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Old 04-30-2003, 11:29 PM   #3751
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titanium pillow balls bend as well. what me and some of the guys at the track use, are mugen pillow balls. You have to drill out the A arms, but you will never bend them again. Instead you will break something else.LOL
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Old 05-01-2003, 03:09 AM   #3752
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Default SERIOUS PROBLEM!!

ok guys,

yesterday i was running my NTC3 before my pull start broke. and before i went to fire up my car, i turned on the transmitter then the reciever and did the test to see if i could turn the wheels and had throttle control, I DID NOT HAVE EITHER!!! So i checked everything over for loose connections, NONE. Then i waited for a minute or two them BAM they came back to life. i have controll again. I did this off and on that day. it did it about 2x. what is happening. Then that day i was running it and i would come across what i think was radio interfierence. The car would start to run just above idle just enough to make the wheels turn. I check my throttle trim it was not the problem. What is happening? It would do this off and on. It would happen then stop. I replaced all the batteries, and it did not help. I made sure that my antenna was not alll cramped up, and not touching any metal. and no other metal was bumping in to other metal.. Soo what do you think is going on guys????

Anyhelp would be great!

Thanks,
David
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Old 05-01-2003, 05:26 AM   #3753
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Quote:
Originally posted by highwayman
what brand of titanium pivot balls are you using? as far as i know, titanium should break not, bend... my friend as bent his, although he can't remember what he put in... hardcore or AE?

i have AE in my car and it always break, never bends...

about the slipper clutch? will it replace the whole steering rack assembly? can i get the part number... thanks...
I was using the AE ones and they would bend the same as the steel ones almost. I haven't tried the hardcore ones but the mugen ones might be a good idea too. And no it just replaces the springs that is in the steering rack. The only part you need is the traction control spring from any AE car and put that spring in place of the spring on the steering rack of the NTC3. Any more questions?
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Old 05-01-2003, 06:10 AM   #3754
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I beleive if you buy a new steering rack assembly it comes with the thick spring, but why do that when the spring itself only cost like a buck as opposed to $6-7. Ask your LHS they should Know what the spring is. That is one goog thing about AE, they put a description of the part as well as a part# on the package.
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Old 05-01-2003, 06:55 AM   #3755
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Originally posted by simonfdr
Alright my --- ---- car is still making wider rights than the left. What can be the problem? Its starting to piss me off... Been bareing with it for a month or so now. Very agrivating. !!!! I'm pulling hair!!!
1- check all pivot points for bent parts (hinge pins/pivot balls/ball studs)

2- check for broken composite parts

3- check your chassis plate for tweak

4- make sure the epa is set at 100% for both left and right

5- Make sure you tie-rods are equal length on the front (very important)

6- Make sure your pillow balls are adjusted equally side to side on both front and rear

7- Make sure yur rear toe is equal on both sides of the rear

8- make sure your droop screws are set equally side to side

9- Make sure your servo horn is centered properly

10- Make sure your preload is equal on your shocks side to side

11- set your chassis tweak

12- Check your radio for damage, one drop can break parts behind the wheel and not allow you to turn the wheel fully in one direction..... TRUST ME this may be a long shot, but it can happen (happened to me) Once all avenues on the chassis have been explored pull the wheel off of your radio and see.... you may be suprised!!!!
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Old 05-01-2003, 07:36 AM   #3756
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swen
I was using the AE ones and they would bend the same as the steel ones almost. I haven't tried the hardcore ones but the mugen ones might be a good idea too. And no it just replaces the springs that is in the steering rack. The only part you need is the traction control spring from any AE car and put that spring in place of the spring on the steering rack of the NTC3. Any more questions?
thanks... will try it out, i've been trying to find a replacement to the stock spring that came with the kit... i feel its too soft, can't turn the wheels to full lock if the car isn't moving...

how big of a hole do you need to drill in order to fit the mugen pivot balls?
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Old 05-01-2003, 09:29 AM   #3757
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We did the mugen pivot ball mod on a friends car. Use a 4.5mm drill bit and attach it to a body reamer handle. The plastic/graphite a-arms are soft enough to drill by hand, just be careful and keep the bit as straight as possible. After drilling, we found that the hole was a little tite, losen it further using the same drill bit. Make sure that the mugan pivot balls thread in easy otherwise you might damage the arm....crack it.

Things we found out after the mod were:

* no more bent pivot balls
* a little less steering throw unless you also dremel out the knuckles...
* arms seemed less durable and prone to cracking, but so far have held up
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Old 05-01-2003, 09:59 AM   #3758
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Default Re: highwayman

Quote:
Originally posted by glide 1
We did the mugen pivot ball mod on a friends car. Use a 4.5mm drill bit and attach it to a body reamer handle. The plastic/graphite a-arms are soft enough to drill by hand, just be careful and keep the bit as straight as possible. After drilling, we found that the hole was a little tite, losen it further using the same drill bit. Make sure that the mugan pivot balls thread in easy otherwise you might damage the arm....crack it.

Things we found out after the mod were:

* no more bent pivot balls
* a little less steering throw unless you also dremel out the knuckles...
* arms seemed less durable and prone to cracking, but so far have held up
Why don't you just buy a mugen?
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Old 05-01-2003, 10:34 AM   #3759
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Quote:
Originally posted by BossPlaya
Man,

Ive been posting on the MTX-3 thread fully having decided on getting an MTX-3, but now a friend of mine that I hadnt talked to in while wants to get rid of his NTC3 and is willing to let me take it off his hands for 150 bux... I'm so conflicted and confused... AAUUUGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! I dont know what to do. They both look like great cars. I like the look of both cars, but my biggest worry is that I might opt for the NTC3 and have some trouble getting it dialed in cause im so new to the hobby, where as the MTX-3 sounds like its pretty dialed in box stock setup.
If you are new to RC, NTC3 will be easier to built than the MTX3. The manual of the NTC3 is very straight forward and you will not go wrong. However, the MTX3 manual needs of guess work. You may spend 50% of your time looking for the parts in the box of MTX3.
In terms of tuning, NTC3 is easier. but in terms of driving, MTX3 will be better if you are new to RC.
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Old 05-01-2003, 01:22 PM   #3760
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Quote:
Originally posted by JordanC
Why don't you just buy a mugen?
maybe i will...
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Old 05-01-2003, 04:29 PM   #3761
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Why pay the Dollars for the fix? All you need is 3/16ths tubing cut to around .800 length, 2-4/40 screws about 1 inch to 1.125 length. And you have it. Don't buy the kit from a guy who copied off what we have been doing for over a year now. I use the RD cases now and the screws seem to stay tight. If any one is interested, you don't even need our fix, Just file the tower down even on the rear 2 screws, drill the diff cases out alittle and buy 2 6/32 buttonhead screws and attach the towers, they will never come loose.
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Old 05-01-2003, 04:59 PM   #3762
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so sensitive when it comes to mugen.
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Old 05-01-2003, 05:22 PM   #3763
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Quote:
Originally posted by mave
If you are new to RC, NTC3 will be easier to built than the MTX3. The manual of the NTC3 is very straight forward and you will not go wrong. However, the MTX3 manual needs of guess work. You may spend 50% of your time looking for the parts in the box of MTX3.
In terms of tuning, NTC3 is easier. but in terms of driving, MTX3 will be better if you are new to RC.

actually,BOSS PLAYA went with the mugen..


and I beg to differ..the tc3.with 2 ball diffs(and 4wd braking) will be easier to drive for a newbie tha the gear diff/one way rear brakes only Mugen(or any pro car with that set up)..
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Old 05-01-2003, 05:29 PM   #3764
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Why pay the Dollars for the fix? All you need is 3/16ths tubing cut to around .800 length, 2-4/40 screws about 1 inch to 1.125 length. And you have it. Don't buy the kit from a guy who copied off what we have been doing for over a year now. I use the RD cases now and the screws seem to stay tight. If any one is interested, you don't even need our fix, Just file the tower down even on the rear 2 screws, drill the diff cases out alittle and buy 2 6/32 buttonhead screws and attach the towers, they will never come loose.

why?..ok,I'll bite...


because the 2 top machined screws thread onto the bottom gear box screws that you screw in from the bottom of the chassis?..and instead of just locking down the shock tower to teh gearbox(which is still way better then the stock set up) it actually locks all three components together as a single unit(teh upper and lower gearboxes along with the shock tower).....


...hey BBN,are you likeing the diff cases's...I would take
your word over just about anyone else's....


any problems with heat build up?..
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Old 05-01-2003, 05:37 PM   #3765
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bbntc3: Your way may work but its not going to be as strong as the fix... and its worth the 5 dollar difference from what you are doing... im not saying what your doing wont help but the fix is WAY better... it is 2 screws for each hole that thread together... its stronger and it looks better... and they arent copying what you are doing... cause what your doing isnt connecting the towers to the chassis... the fix does... and the problem isnt the screws comming loose (at least not the main problem...) its the part where they screw in getting ripped appart... and your little plan wont work as well as the fix... but do what you want... and most people dont have the alluminum cases so the fix is useful to them even if you dont need it... and its cheaper as you only NEED it in the front... im waiting for kfactorys new shock towers... those will be even better... as they actually drop down and mount to those screws along with the normal ones... that will be the best... but until then... i'd stick with the fix...
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