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Old 04-27-2003, 01:20 AM   #3646
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Default Full view w/ K-Factory Bumper brace.

From front to back.
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Old 04-27-2003, 01:38 AM   #3647
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Quote:
Originally posted by dvargas
That is why it is hard to pull the pull start???????? I mean i have had the car running for a total of 5 secs. that is it. i am going to wait till monday when my friend flys in from the states and he will help me. But please still ansswer my question.

Also are y ou supposed to be able to turn the flywheel with your finger? Keep in mind my engine has never TRULY been started. unless you count 5 sec as a start.
Yeah, that why, but if anyone disagree with me,please fell free to correct me. Yes you are able to turn your flywheel with your fingers, but that would hurt. Like I say your engine is still new, it will take a while in order to free it up.
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Old 04-27-2003, 01:47 AM   #3648
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Default Try....

loosening up your glowplug and attach the igniter . This should help. Once it fires up then just tighten up the glowplug again.
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Old 04-27-2003, 02:11 AM   #3649
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Default Titanium chassis...

If you guys think about it your motor mounts are probably not titanium, they are most likey alluminum. Titanium and alluminum, since they are two different metals their heat absorption, heat dissipation properties will be different. Alluminum is a better heat conductor if I am not mistaken compared to alluminum so they will heat up in different rates. Engine overheating is a theory derived from the idea that since the alloy motormounts heat up faster(heat dissipation)the Titanium traps the heat in the motor mounts and the motor overheats since heat dissipation is slowed down in the transition from one material to another. That is what the local racers in my LHS speculates and this is not my theory. It sounds possible since I still have to see an amplifier with titanium heatsinks come to think of it. The Hardcore Pro Titanium chassis is definitely well balanced and since it is lighter but as strong or stronger than the AE chassis, this will help in cornering and direction transition, less unsprung weight, this should contribute to faster and snappier acceleration. Titanium has memory properties, meaning if it impacts on something it will be less proned to warping or denting, and end up going back or getting close to it's original form quite important in a race, since a tweaked chassis can cost you the race.
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Old 04-27-2003, 03:03 AM   #3650
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Default Re: Try....

Quote:
Originally posted by XtremeMDX
loosening up your glowplug and attach the igniter . This should help. Once it fires up then just tighten up the glowplug again.

How many pulls of the pull starter should it take to fire it up??

i also wantt to make sure about the pull starter being hard to pull because i did not want to break the pull start, because i would have been pissed.
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Old 04-27-2003, 07:25 AM   #3651
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good news guys. i used the hair dryer technique. the car fired up on the 3rd pull. and i have done 2 tanks already. first one was idle. 2nd was low low speed driving. my high speed needle is at 4 turns out. is that ok? or too rich. when sould i start to lean out the HSN? around the 5th or 6th tank???
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Old 04-27-2003, 09:42 AM   #3652
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XtremeMDX: What kind of shock bushings are those? Trinity?
And i know they dont make titanium mounts... im talking about the chassis... the mounts transfer weight to the chassis... it acts as a large heatsink... if you use alluminum it cools beter meaning lower engine temp... titanium will make your engine run hotter... titanium mounts would kill the engine REALLY fast... so no one would use them... I would recomend against using a titanium chassis instead get a 7075 alluminum chassis... they are cheaper and are fairly strong... if you use titanium chassis really watch engine temp and make sure you use the alluminum heat sink engine mounts...
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Old 04-27-2003, 09:59 AM   #3653
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
Well I think so if a little work was done to the crank, OK I know so. They need the MT12 treatment if you know what I mean to add some top end. I still think my collari is faster because I was only on 20% and the TR was on 30. The funny part is the same engine was a dog that I could run down pretty easy with an X12 the week before it got 'tuned'. Also, I know one guy that swears his modded TR is the fastest engine hes had and hes had just about everything. I think what it comes down to is that all the .12s if they have proper 'tuning' are pretty equal, and by tuning I mean, gear, pipe, head clearance, etc, etc.


I apreciate all the answers guys...I don't think I''ll be using my new 12 is this scenario...


I'll probably pick up a rody 3 port non turbo..or see if I can get a s3 nova motor..to be honest,I'm not a big fan of mooded motors(unless RODY does it)..
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Old 04-27-2003, 10:30 AM   #3654
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Quote:
Originally posted by BOLISARIO
I thought these shoes are in the R&D phase,as of yesterday, but now they're released to the public. They may last longer than the stock shoes, but what about the clutchbell? If that needs frequent replacing, then it wouldn't be as cost effective.
The R&D phase was because we didn't know if we could get the weight down close to the composite shoes but when they weighed less actually Dave decided to put them out. Sorry about posting the info in the wrong forum too. Also the shoes are very inexpensive and that will offset the extra wear on the clutchbell. There also will be no glazing over on the aluminum shoes. And anyone who has seen the CNR heatsink heads will know that his work is top notch. Give them a try, at only a few dollars over the stock shoe price what have you got to lose? It's a much more practical alternative to the K-Factory or Kawahara centax clutches.

As far as the titanium chassis goes, if you were to use the vented motor mounts with the ti chassis I don't think you'd notice alot of difference compared to the stock mounts and an aluminum chassis. Also many motor experts have said that you don't want to take the heat out of the bottom of the motor. It will take away power from the motor. If the lower part of the crankcase gets cold it won't be as efficient because the fuel won't be vaporized as well and it won't flow into the cylinder as well.

For any of you that do try the shoes let everyone know what you think. Hope you all are having a good time racing this weekend.

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Old 04-27-2003, 11:36 AM   #3655
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thanx guys i will go back to the ball-diffs alllaround and get rid of both ONE-WAY and solid.....i'll get back to u.....i'm gonna do that now.........let's give a TC3 a change to be my favorite car.
i know u guys like this car and i hope i'll like it too.
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Old 04-27-2003, 11:41 AM   #3656
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WUZ UP HARRY RACING TODAY OR WHAT?
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Old 04-27-2003, 11:42 AM   #3657
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no
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:32 PM   #3658
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HARRY wat kind of grease should i use?
can i use black grease?
i'm puttin' the diffs together......and i can find the stock grease....
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:35 PM   #3659
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you need teh proper grease....associated silicone on teh balls,black grease on the thrust bearing....you have to build this car like the book says....
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:43 PM   #3660
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yes, that is why.

Your motor (all motors) come from the factory with a very tight seal between piston and sleeve - it's not broken in from the factory. When you break it in you are mating the piston to the sleeve, making a "just right" seal, as well as getting oil in all the right places, etc. It is going to be very tight until you've run several tanks of fuel through it.

And, turning it with your finger - you should be able to turn it about 75% of the way and, with difficulty, MIGHT be able to turn it the rest of the way.

Just be patient. If your friend is coming, I would wait for him.
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