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Old 04-26-2003, 05:45 PM   #3631
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Quote:
Originally posted by onroadmaniak
THANKS HIGH........some said that i could add some weight to the right side but the car is pullin to the right do i have to try the other side?
i never have that problem with my SERPENT......i like the TC3 but i'm upsad about this little problem this is my second SHAFT driven car after my TGX.....i never had that problem with that car.
and do u think 1.45hp is not enough power?
1.45 hp is good enough... try the weights, to see what it would do... personally i wouldn't reccomend them, because the car is pretty balanced... check the tweak... we changed to the hardcore chassis and placed them on golf tee's, and the car actually stood up by itself on the tee.
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Old 04-26-2003, 05:48 PM   #3632
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Originally posted by onroadmaniak
i'm afraid to put the diff in the rear cause i have the gray one not the WHITE one....and i know and i've seen a few of the grayone MELTTTTTT to s*%& .
who sell the white gears?

i broke mine but i've never melted any of my gears... and i'm pretty sure, its kinda hard to break or melt the gray ones... the only times i break mine is when i'm on power and the car goes up one of those burms...
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Old 04-26-2003, 05:52 PM   #3633
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onroad...thats 2 people who have told you to put ths diffs back in teh car.......the most common mistake everyone makes is to change the car from its stock settings...build the car tah way associated says..run it,if you like it,then change it.....

don't worry about the gears...use the gray ones...I'll check the car for you..make sure you build and tighten the diffs EXACTLY as the book says..

just so you know,both my RB TURBO tc3's launch straightb as an arrow.....and stay that way at any speed...
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Old 04-26-2003, 06:01 PM   #3634
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highwayman: How has the titanium chassis worked out i have heard there are alot of problems because unlike aluminum it doesnt discipate heat...
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Old 04-26-2003, 06:16 PM   #3635
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what problems have you heard? aside from the one you mentioned?

2 of us have the standard titanium chassis, and a third has the lightened version... none of us expereinced any problems with it, in fact my friend swears it improved the handling of the car...

although now that you mentioned it, we do seem to get higher temps lately... we never actually thought to check the heat disapation cause the chassis seems hot after a run, and the increase in temps wasn't that significant.

also, even though the standard titanium is heavier, the balance of the car remained basically the same...

Last edited by highwayman; 04-26-2003 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 04-26-2003, 06:20 PM   #3636
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Well the guys at my local hobby shop said they had tried it and it had burned their engine out much faster cause it absorbs heat instead of discipating it so once it heats up all the heat goes straight to the engine... I want the kfactory chassis but its expensive so im thinkin about the gh hobbies or the RDlogics...
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Old 04-26-2003, 06:30 PM   #3637
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personally, i don't think so... i don't know about the metalurgical chractersitics of titanium, but once you run, i do believe you get the same amount of cooling in and around the car.

if i had to buy again, i'd still get the hardcore, my 2nd choice would be the GH, then the RD

Last edited by highwayman; 04-26-2003 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 04-26-2003, 07:18 PM   #3638
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What i mean is titanium absorbs heat... but like anything else it can only hold so much then it just stays in the engine and the mounts... maybe a little will discipate but its not as fast alluminum so it forces you to run you engine richer to keep cool... i know its stronger but to me i would rather spend the extra 40 to replace alluminum chassis then have to buy new engines for 150 plus... I wanna get titanium screws but chassis just doesnt make sence to me... I still like kfactorys the most... then gh then rd...
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Old 04-26-2003, 10:33 PM   #3639
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Default onroadmaniak,

Do you have the AE threaded shocks, if you do check your pre-load on each shock, they might not be even. If you don't have the threaded one check your droop and make sure they're even on both sides. You might want to check if there is any binding to any of the 4 hubs as well. It is also possible that you tightened one of the wheels too tight and it is binding. The symptoms you describe seems something is binding. It could also be a blown bearing. Do not add weights. They are only used more as a tuning tool to change weight distribution among other things. Check everything first and while you're at it check for chassis tweak as well. I managed to decrease any drag from the hubs by taking off the spacer that is sandwiched between the 2 bearings and replaced it with another bearing. I now have 3 bearings on each hub. The added weight is minimal compared to the benefit of a more free rotating drivetrain.
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:03 AM   #3640
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ducati998
Your engine is still new, the piston fitting between the sleeve is still tight. After a couple of more running it will lossen up.
That is why it is hard to pull the pull start???????? I mean i have had the car running for a total of 5 secs. that is it. i am going to wait till monday when my friend flys in from the states and he will help me. But please still ansswer my question.

Also are y ou supposed to be able to turn the flywheel with your finger? Keep in mind my engine has never TRULY been started. unless you count 5 sec as a start.
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:41 AM   #3641
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
do you guys think,in any way shape or form,on an 8th scale track(with an approx) 200 ft (or more) straight,an OS TR(non turbo)rear exhaust with a six gear split,would be capable of running with rb and nova rossi 3 port's(never mind about teh rodys and modifieds).....


thanks..
Well I think so if a little work was done to the crank, OK I know so. They need the MT12 treatment if you know what I mean to add some top end. I still think my collari is faster because I was only on 20% and the TR was on 30. The funny part is the same engine was a dog that I could run down pretty easy with an X12 the week before it got 'tuned'. Also, I know one guy that swears his modded TR is the fastest engine hes had and hes had just about everything. I think what it comes down to is that all the .12s if they have proper 'tuning' are pretty equal, and by tuning I mean, gear, pipe, head clearance, etc, etc.
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:46 AM   #3642
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Default Revised my Radio plate theme...

Since I have the K-Factory left chassis brace, K-Factory front upper bumper brace it was time to revise my theme. My original theme was metal due to the Harcore radio plate. I still have the Hardcore piece but I needed a carbon fiber theme so I changed the alloy cover for the receiver battery and covered the battery in carbon fiber decal sheets. I also changed my decals on my receiver cover with K-Factory decals and repolished the left over alloy trims.
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:56 AM   #3643
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Default Here's the pics of the old theme

I saved quite a few oz of weight with the new team so it worked out at the end. Here's pics of the old theme so you can compare the difference.
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Old 04-27-2003, 12:57 AM   #3644
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Default Finally got a decent pic of the polished carb

Heres the pics of the polished and midly bored out carb on my Novarossi S5.
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Old 04-27-2003, 01:17 AM   #3645
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Default Heres another view...

of the revised theme. Side view of the receiver battery and receiver box
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