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Old 03-09-2002, 12:53 PM   #346
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I have the Hudy and yes it hits the rear ballcups, and yes it has to be drilled to 8/32nd. I hated like hell to notch the prisms but theres no other way to make it work. I notifyied Hudy and they had to buy a NTC3 to prove I was right! They sent me an email to say you have to notch the prisms. As far as drilling the 8/32 holes what kinda problem will that cause with the other makes of cars? I also wrote hardcore on the NTC3 parts and they are'nt out yet! You can expect to start seeing the stuff and the prices sometime in the next 2 weeks.
ErnestF: Did you drill the clutch shoes out? if so how do you like? It help my RB alot.

Last edited by bbntc3; 03-10-2002 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 03-09-2002, 01:05 PM   #347
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bbntc3...how ya been? I "reamed" out the holes on mine so that it didn't end up opening them too much.I don't think it will make to much difference with the other cars.I'm going to notch mine this weekend
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Old 03-09-2002, 05:58 PM   #348
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
Someone had mentioned on oneof these forums that the HUDY set-up hits the rear toe links on the nitro.....Also,be aware that the axles on the tc3 are 8-32nd,you might have to drill the hole on the set-up plates,as the axles won't go through...I know,I have it....And I thing drilling the holes renders it useless for the std 4mm axles on my Serpent,Kyosho's and HPI's.......


Ernest F,Comments??>........
ooh my fault, forget to mention i need to enlarge the hole a bit. thx !
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Old 03-09-2002, 06:02 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
I have the Hudy and yes it hits the rear ballcups, and yes it has to be drilled to 8/32nd. I hated like hell to notch the prisms but theres no other way to make it work. I notifyied Hudy and they had to buy a NTC3 to prove I was right! They sent me an email to say you have to notch the prisms. As far as drilling the 8/32 holes what kinda problem will that cause with the other makes of cars? The wheels are still centered on the 12mm hex so people the tool will not be useless on other cars once its drilled. I also wrote hardcore on the NTC3 parts and they are'nt out yet! You can expect to start seeing the stuff and the prices sometime in the next 2 weeks.
ErnestF: Did you drill the clutch shoes out? if so how do you like? It help my RB alot.
i am sure i have to drill holes on the shoes cuz i am using SX12RE and it might be too powerful for the stock clutch. however, i havent do it yet cuz my LHS is out of stock for the extra clutch spring for 3-shoe type clutch !!!
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Old 03-09-2002, 08:45 PM   #350
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Not much going on here at all Blimey. Car is done all team option parts here or on order. Just waiting for the weather to break! So we can do some racing, going to try and start up Parkersburg 23rd on this month. You could cut alittle bit out of the corner of the Radio tray and turn the prisms around the other way. The Hardcore radio tray looks like it only uses 1 hole in the chassis braces, so the radio tray should'nt be a problem if you had the other deck, other than the fact you'd have to use the rear prism backwards.

ErnestF My clutch has about 3/4ths gallon of fuel on it and it still holds the RB 5 port turbo power. Can't wait for a centex upgrade! I'm sure its probably in the works.
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Old 03-10-2002, 09:08 AM   #351
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bbntc3, yeah a centrax clutch will do the work much better !!
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Old 03-11-2002, 11:07 PM   #352
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Is the NTC3 going through a re-design? A rumor has started on some of the other threads, just curious if anyone had heard anything. I haven't really ran mine yet because it's been too cold out here so far this spring...

Anyone???
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Old 03-11-2002, 11:34 PM   #353
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Kansasracer- where did you see that?
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Old 03-12-2002, 06:20 AM   #354
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Craig,

All the way at the bottom:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&threadid=3604
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Old 03-12-2002, 07:20 PM   #355
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Is anybody out there running a Motor Saver airfilter with their Mugen MT12 engine? If you are, could you give me the part number of your filter? I've heard the the MT12 has a larger carb opening than the O.S. engines and requires a different Motor Saver than what would normally be used. Any assistance would be great! Just a few more things (along with some nice temps) and I'll have my car ready to run.
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Old 03-12-2002, 08:36 PM   #356
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Hey guys has anybody tried the solid rear axle in the NTC3 yet? Just wondering got mine today and was thinking about installing it for the first race. Any suggestions about when and where to use it? Should it be used only with a front oneway? I would think with a ball diff in the front and a solid rear it would make the car push like crazy on a tight corner, high bite track, or would it?
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Old 03-12-2002, 08:40 PM   #357
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Schuie Driver I: I'm using a motorsaver on my RB which has the same carb diameter. I don't know the part # but it does take the largest motor saver for .21 engines.
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Old 03-13-2002, 09:36 AM   #358
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You can use the solid axle in the front too. Serpent guys were doing that last year, although i don't know the entire reasoning behind it. It is hard on the drivetrain though. Used in the back its supposed to make the car steer more agressively like an eigth scaler. The one ways and solid axles are more efficient in acceleration(because there is no diffing), resulting in harder pulls coming off of corners. I have one too, but I think I will work with the diffs first. You can always approximate the solid axle with a very tight ball diff.
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Old 03-13-2002, 05:18 PM   #359
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Thanks OB4 I have worked with the TC3 ball diff for 2 years. wanted to try something different. We race mainly race on short tight tracks where a oneway don't really work that well. We raced a TC3 gas conversion for 2 years and the one and only time I tried the one way was'nt that good , the first heat it twisted the left cvd out of the car so I replaced it and the second heat it twisted the right cvd out.
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Old 03-19-2002, 11:02 PM   #360
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Well I capitulated and got one, four words. BAD TO THE BONE!! I just cant get used to looking at it though.

However the tank IS screwed up, need to ditch the pressure fitting on the tank and put one just below the lid (had to do that to my GT) Tank pressure is inconsistant and dumps alot of fuel out the exhaust when you get off the throttle, if it does not stall the engine because of all the fuel being blown back in the engine the next time you crack the throttle. And like was said earlier by the team guys ditch the swing rack spring. Other than that its all good.

I need to figure how to get a centax in this thing though.

OB my car had all the graphite except a woven deck and the tank insert was in the tank bag (held in by one screw)

I figured I needed to see what all the hoopla was about before I got smoked at the season opener. LOL
Still need to compare it to my reworked mugen though. come on summer!!!

Serpent better hope Associated does not get into the 1/8th scale business.
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