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Old 04-19-2003, 09:48 AM   #3436
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let me throw this one out their. I have a RB X12 3 port but waiting on a piston and sleeve, thinking about buying a new motor, does the OS TR12 3 port have good power? I can get one for $135, fairly inexpensive, is it cheap because it sucks?
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:12 AM   #3437
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Originally posted by thomasf
thanks for the info, this thread seems very infomative. I was getting ready to give up on the ntc3 cause i was tiried of stripping the gear. You give me hope, thanks alot
may i ask, how did you strip the gears, because, although the white gears are stronger, the single biggest cause of stripping is being on power with the car being dropped or coming down from a burm that makes the car's wheel take off a bit...
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:23 AM   #3438
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just as you describe must be the reason why. I know I need to be careful, but sometimes you jump a dot on the corner and thats all it takes. I don't here of other cars having that problem. Ireally like the way the car handles, but thats my only grip is those gears. I don't want to give up on the car, but its frustrating. Maybe stick to a diff up front and sacrifice corner speed?
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:30 AM   #3439
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NTC3NUT: First What Engine Is That In Your Car? what chassis are your using... Now i have one recomendation remove the front aluminum input cup so it has somewhere to give... instead of damaging many parts... cause when the entire driver train is solid it puts extra stress on the car. Kind of like what would happen to a belt car if the belts were just tight with out the use of tensors... you want somewhere where some tension can be released... and you want to keep the break cup cause it gives a little stronger breaking
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:41 AM   #3440
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thomasf:

ahh... i gather you're using a one way up front, that will definitely increase the pressure on your drive train, in your case, the diff gears... a diff would help, but its not the answer...

personally, my suggestion is, just being aware that you're exerting unnecessary strain on your drive train is a start, then you become aware not to jump the throtle when you hit a bump or burm...

i brake hard entering conrners and jump the throttle hard on the exit, but i don't strip my gears there, its when i light up the throttle and the one on the wheels are off the ground, that's when i tend to strip them...

try using the white gears, they'd help, but try being more aware while driving, and you'd preserve your gears and might actually end up with better lap times...

Last edited by highwayman; 04-19-2003 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:48 AM   #3441
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Quote:
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Last one.
Hey, man, thanks for the pics, but the pic are rather dark. The next time you gonna post your newly painted pic, a little flash will make your car look nicer.
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:53 AM   #3442
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Originally posted by rod_b
fastharry - I do have first hand knowledge. It helped with my tuning issuesbut I'm one of the unfortunate few that has the "non-existent tank problem." Who knows, maybe I just had 3 bad tanks. The K-Factory tank runs better for me. Just added the RDLogics pipe and now the whole fuel delivery system, engine and tuning are rock solid. Speedtech has the tank for $39. Some online place has them for $21 but it'll cost you about $10 in shipping from HK. If I never have to buy another tank again, then it was well worth it.
Hi Rod_D,

do you happen to have the web address for the the HK vendor that you spoke about?

Please email to me. Thanks.
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Old 04-19-2003, 10:59 AM   #3443
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Talking NICE

NTC3NUT.....nice washing machine

serious .....sweet looking car, well taken care of etc etc

one quicky the rear springs.....copper or gold ???
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Old 04-19-2003, 11:23 AM   #3444
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NTC3NUT-where are you getting those K&N filters. I like them and I'd like to try them out.

Jon
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Old 04-19-2003, 11:51 AM   #3445
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Default Dynamite pipe

Im sure this has been covered in the previous pages but i'd rather not look through all 115+ pages.

Has anyone tried this pipe at all??. If so, how does it compare to the stock or dual chamber pipe.Thanks
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Old 04-19-2003, 11:58 AM   #3446
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Quote:
Originally posted by mave
Hi Rod_D,

do you happen to have the web address for the the HK vendor that you spoke about?

Please email to me. Thanks.
It's one of the sponsors of this site. http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk

Here's the link directly to the item.
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Old 04-19-2003, 12:51 PM   #3447
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NTC3NUT- i have another recomendation, use the stock servo horn for steering, since the steering servo is usually the high dollar one... (mine cost 110... so...) But with an aluminum horn it will just tranfer stress to the servo itself... you should use a plastic one so if there is exesive stress it just strips out instead of possibly damaging the servo... just what i think...
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Old 04-19-2003, 12:58 PM   #3448
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well this is prob. goin to piss off everyone who helped me decide wat car i should get but because of my budget right now im goin to get the ntc3.... yayers...... just got a few questions about it.... wats the beswt centax, chassis, and upper deck i can get for it.... i need to know soon.... and which of these is most important on this car for racing??
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Old 04-19-2003, 02:30 PM   #3449
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ImportRacer1187,
The engine is a JP RS12, I also have a JP S3, both basically the same engine. I have also had alot of luck with Mugen MT/MR-12's. As for the aluminum stuff, mostly eye-candy, but it serves it's purpose. I ran the car like this all last season and had no problems with anything, other than the one-way & older gears. The front cup is a must, the plastic can fail without warning. The servo horn doesn't make a huge differance, but I don't think a plastic horn would save anything, I have never seen a plastic one break, but I have seen guys strip servos with them. I had a few spectacular crashes last season and when a hard front end impact was involved the typical result would be one of the ball cups popping off. I also have the heavy servo saver spring installed & completely tightened down. I value precise steering response over parts, even if it is a $135 servo. The chassis is a GH, been very happy with it.

racecar850,
Thanks for the compliment (on the washing machine I mean). Man, I wish I had a buck for every time I heard that. The springs on the rear are gold right now.

Swen,
I can get them for $15.95, but the handling/shipping charge for a standard order is $6.00. The more I order the better. I'm down to my last one with a chrome top, I have several with out it. I'll have to get a few on order for spares.
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Old 04-19-2003, 02:40 PM   #3450
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Hey guys, check this out. Looks like a replacement for the NTC3 LW 2-spd clutch housing that AE is discontinuing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg untitled1.jpg (12.6 KB, 145 views)

Last edited by NTC3NUT; 04-19-2003 at 03:01 PM.
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